Red Oil Pressure Light comes on when idling (right after rod bearing replacement)

[heinzboehmer]

I know this is a pain to deal with, but I would go back to the shop with this video.

It's possible that this is all a huge coincidence and your pump decided to let go at exactly the same time that your rod bearings were replaced. Highly unlikely, but whatever, it's possible.

The big issue I see is that the shop told you that they verified the oil pressure themselves and made sure everything was within spec. You've clearly just demonstrated that that's not true, so how do you know that everything else they said they did was done correctly? Did they actually inspect the pump and replace the o ring? Don't want to imply that the shop is incompetent, but in my mind the issue was clearly caused by the rod bearing work.

As for technical advice, I wouldn't drive the car until this is taken care of. You've verified that the engine isn't circulating oil properly and this can ultimately lead to some pretty serious damage. I don't have first-hand experience with this, so I can only take some blind guesses as to what the issue is. Checking the pump, o-rings, pickup tubes, oil passageways, etc is what I would do next.

[MTiz]

Does any pressure register on the gauge when the engine RPMs are increased?

Yes, the pressure moved up as RPM's increased. I took a video of the gauge moving up and down with the RPM's: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=72pj...ature=youtu.be

[jbfrancis3]

Does any pressure register on the gauge when the engine RPMs are increased?

[MTiz]

Sure enough, the pressure is below spec once it fully warms up. Should be sitting at 7-8psi. What does this mean? Bad oil pump? Arehman is having the same issue with his car and it didn't go away after a new oil pump was installed.

[heinzboehmer]

Big question-- once I hook my mechanical gauge up to the car, do I have to put everything back together? Airbox, intake, MAF, filters, all the hoses, etc etc? In my mind it doesn't make sense to put everything back together only to have to take it apart again just to take the gauge back off. What needs to be plugged back in and what can I leave off for the time being?

Car will trip out without the MAF. I would just position everything back without bolts or hose clamps or anything and plug in the MAF.

Edit: oh and the starter cable, car won't start without that. I've made that mistake before and wasted a bunch of time troubleshooting.

[MTiz]

Took the airbox off to fully open up the oil filter housing and only managed to break one small piece of plastic along the way. Don't have the pressure switch off as of yet because none of my wrenches are big enough, have to get a 24mm one (correct me on this if I'm wrong please).

Big question-- once I hook my mechanical gauge up to the car, do I have to put everything back together? Airbox, intake, MAF, filters, all the hoses, etc etc? In my mind it doesn't make sense to put everything back together only to have to take it apart again just to take the gauge back off. What needs to be plugged back in and what can I leave off for the time being?

[eacmen]

Sorry mate, I think its a pita either way.


See page 10, there is a special tool for measuring at the oil filter cap:

http://www.billswebspace.com/MS54B32TrainingModule.pdf

Looks like that special tool has a long lead time. Only other "easy" option would be the VAC oil cap: https://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac...s54-p1065.aspx

[eacmen]

That's exactly what I'm trying to do, I just wanted to know if there was a trick to getting to it without removing the airbox and the headache that comes with that.

Sorry mate, I think its a pita either way.


See page 10, there is a special tool for measuring at the oil filter cap:

http://www.billswebspace.com/MS54B32TrainingModule.pdf

[MTiz]

Can you take the factory oil pressure idiot switch out and hook the gauge up to that port? I believe its on the oil filter housing. Might need to take the airbox out to get to it easily.

That's exactly what I'm trying to do, I just wanted to know if there was a trick to getting to it without removing the airbox and the headache that comes with that.

[eacmen]

How do I hookup the mechanical pressure gauge without moving the airbox? The oil cooler lines are mostly in the way and I can barely stick my fingers in there.

Can you take the factory oil pressure idiot switch out and hook the gauge up to that port? I believe its on the oil filter housing. Might need to take the airbox out to get to it easily.

Or, some have had oil filter caps tapped with 1/8 npt. Though some claim the readings are skewed based on if the oil thermostat is open or closed.

[MTiz]

How do I hookup the mechanical pressure gauge without moving the airbox? The oil cooler lines are mostly in the way and I can barely stick my fingers in there.

[George Hill]

I think I will. Any idea on a good tool kit for this?

Since you had the shop replace the bearings a second time, I'm going to assume you think they are competent mechanics.

I would tell them the oil pressure light is still on. I would ask them to hook up the gauge with the car at operating temp and then you go an verify the readings. IF it's good you have a wiring issue. If it's not you should discuss options with them as they said they already checked it, this should be a mutual effort to resolve it now.

[sapote]

I think I will. Any idea on a good tool kit for this?

buy or rent a gauge with hose set from Auto Zone or O’Riley

[Arehman]

It’s your oil pump. Had the same problem recently and it was a faulty pump. We also ran the test on the oil filter housing to test oil pressure. And surely enough it was slightly low.

[MTiz]

Ask them what was the measured pressure at operating temperature and idling. You should do it yourself.

I think I will. Any idea on a good tool kit for this?