Red Oil Pressure Light comes on when idling (right after rod bearing replacement)

[Will]

Glad it's resolved; well done. Thanks for updating the thread, too.

[eacmen]

Writing what I hope is my final update to this post. Installed OEM rod bearings, new oil pump, and new oil filter housing. Did not see the oil light once for the 35~ miles or so that I drove home. I will continue to put miles on it this coming week and I hope to never see the red light again .

While I did most of the hard labor, I want to give a shoutout to my Indy for being understanding of the situation and letting me use their lift (and their expertise) free of charge.

[Dino]

Damn, that is great to hear OP. Reading this thread was suspenseful. Fingers crossed it doesn't come back!!

[MTiz]

Writing what I hope is my final update to this post. Installed OEM rod bearings, new oil pump, and new oil filter housing. Did not see the oil light once for the 35~ miles or so that I drove home. I will continue to put miles on it this coming week and I hope to never see the red light again .

While I did most of the hard labor, I want to give a shoutout to my Indy for being understanding of the situation and letting me use their lift (and their expertise) free of charge.

[gscavalli]

Just looked at your video and looks like you got it all figured out, congrats! Was it the oil filter housing that finally fixed yours? A brand new one from BMW didn't fix mine so I'm hoping the new pump puts this to bed.

It makes me feel a lot better that I'm not the only person experiencing this right now.

Oil pressure incresed a little by changing a new oil pump, but I believe oil pressure is still too low even though there's no oil pressure warning light on...
Mechanical gauge reads 6 or 7 psi at idle with oil temperatures around 100 degrees celsius (BMW states the minimum oil pressure should be 0.7 bar at idle with operating temperature)
I didn't change oil filter housing yet...

[MTiz]

I'm having the exact same issue man... Take a look: https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...#post-18904130

Just looked at your video and looks like you got it all figured out, congrats! Was it the oil filter housing that finally fixed yours? A brand new one from BMW didn't fix mine so I'm hoping the new pump puts this to bed.

It makes me feel a lot better that I'm not the only person experiencing this right now.

[gscavalli]

No update since 3/17, been busy with work and vacation. I ordered OEM Bearings and a new Oil Pump. Tow Truck is coming tomorrow to take it back to the shop that did all of this-- I'll be using their lift to install everything and finish this once and for all.

I'm having the exact same issue man... Take a look: https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...#post-18904130

[MTiz]

Any update on this OP?

No update since 3/17, been busy with work and vacation. I ordered OEM Bearings and a new Oil Pump. Tow Truck is coming tomorrow to take it back to the shop that did all of this-- I'll be using their lift to install everything and finish this once and for all.

[180SXTCY]

Any update on this OP?

[MTiz]

Quick Update for nextelbuddy and BMWahba : Changed the oil filter housing last week with a brand new one from BMW and it actually got worse-- first cold start I had zero oil pressure. I don't believe I installed it wrong but unfortunately, my oil cooler line bolt is stripped so I can't just take it off again. Really discouraging, any ideas on how to get that out?

My old man and the shop owner got into a big argument like two weeks back and they agreed to do my oil pump and bearings (for the 3rd time) free of charge if we come in and do most of the work, which is fine by me. My Dad is a shrewd negotiator 😀. I had actually dropped my front subframe in my driveway and was about to open up the oil pan when I received this news-- had to put everything back together lol.

Ordered an Oil Pump from Pierburg which will be delivered tomorrow, and I'm going to order OEM Rod Bearings (they're still are trying to blame ACL bearings) next week. Car is currently in the driveway under a cover, immobile and will have to get towed to the shop. God bless the stimulus check.

[nextelbuddy]

So one of my friends had the same problem after rod bearings.. They had said they changed out the oil filter housing thinking that was going to be the problem but I guess they swapped in a bad one because they swapped it again and that solved their problem. Another thing to check would be the Vanoss accumulator and line make sure there's no weird leak there and the Vanoss accumulator is working properly.

[BMWahba]

Any updates, OP?

[R1pilot]

OP, I dont know how much time you have but if you removed the airbox you should be able to do this yourself.

I did my own bearings and its more tedious than anything. Waaaaay easier than that stupid starter I changed a few months ago.

Get some CDI torque wrenches from Amazon if you don't have them and lower the pan and check the plumbing and everything in there.

I would not go back to that shop other than to show them that video and see what they say.

[sapote]

"The big issue I see is that the shop told you that they verified the oil pressure themselves and made sure everything was within spec. You've clearly just demonstrated that that's not true, so how do you know that everything else they said they did was done correctly?"

+1. I bet the pump is fine but the mechanic messed up the connection when removed/installed the plumbing.

OP, at 2000 rpm and only 10 psi pressure is too low. There is a big leak on the plumbing somewhere in the oil pan and they lied to you on the pressure test. I hate to pay the pros and got this kind of result.

[jbfrancis3]

Yes, the pressure moved up as RPM's increased. I took a video of the gauge moving up and down with the RPM's: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=72pj...ature=youtu.be

Very nice. Remarkable its so low that the gauge doesn't register any pressure. Next course of action, mechanically, is beyond my paygrade.