Front strut brace

[sleepyonthehighway]

I was pulling fuses a week ago fixing a fuel issue when I noticed my OEM strut brace was completely shorn on both sides.


When I removed it, it fell apart entirely.

I chose to replace it with the Dinan brace and I'm happy.

[9kracing]

DMG is some quality stuff

[S54330Ci]

DMG Pro-46 R w/ Removable Center 3pc in raw clear with heat signatures. Makes it easy to remove and work on the car and of course the bling factor.

I have the same bar only powder coated black. Probably the best strut bar on the market IMO. Fit and finish is perfect. Surprisingly light as well.

[Projecte46m3]

DMG Pro-46 R w/ Removable Center 3pc in raw clear with heat signatures. Makes it easy to remove and work on the car and of course the bling factor.

[0-60motorsports]

Love my RE Strut brace but will be going back to stock as working on the car is much easier.

[Arith2]

I had one of these RD braces on my 325 (about 20 years ago). Those plates are soft aluminum and are very easy to distort.
Having said that, it does confirm (in my mind) that these braces do help to some degree. If they weren't being loaded, they wouldn't bend.

Most modern BMWs are not allowed to be driven without the front reinforcements, especially the M vehicles. I was lifting a new 4 series and as soon as it left the ground, the whole front end flexed.

We don't need to see a mangled eBay strut brace to know they work, however, I agree it is good to see a living example of stress induced on them. This also means buy quality parts and not a garbage aluminum one. It's not an essential part to go high quality, just strongly recommended.

[elbert]

Idk about the hinge but looks like the mounting plates are warping and pulling the strut mount nuts/studs in weird ways.

I had one of these RD braces on my 325 (about 20 years ago). Those plates are soft aluminum and are very easy to distort.
Having said that, it does confirm (in my mind) that these braces do help to some degree. If they weren't being loaded, they wouldn't bend.

[meowth]

I’m not sure I see what’s so bad to warn against the RD brace from photo? Is it not keeping the towers the same distance from each other? True it’s a hinged brace, but it’s job is to tie the two front towers together.

Idk about the hinge but looks like the mounting plates are warping and pulling the strut mount nuts/studs in weird ways.

[old///MFanatic]

It's not an M3 but a customer came in with a Racing Dynamics strut bar and this a warning against it. Most people that you get what you pay for and here's what not to buy.

I’m not sure I see what’s so bad to warn against the RD brace from photo? Is it not keeping the towers the same distance from each other? True it’s a hinged brace, but it’s job is to tie the two front towers together.

[R60BBA]

Anybody have any input on how much of a difference a strut bar makes on our vehicles? I have an early 01 pre LCI with no strut bar and have been eying the Rogue Engineering bar as my car starts too see more action.

I have a pre facelift (2002) which came from factory without a strut brace. I ordered a genuine BMW strut brace a while ago, but had to wait due to it being on a prolonged backorder from Munich. However it eventually came last month and I got it fitted a couple of weeks ago.

Having driven the car for 4 years without the strut brace I can confirm that there is a difference. When driving at normal speeds you do not notice it, but when cornering at speed the car is flatter. It’s not a night and day difference, (nor is it a placebo), but a difference nonetheless.

I was expecting a bit of understeer however haven’t noticed any. Putting the car on track next month so will have a better idea but will vouch for the ‘upgrade’ if you have the extra cash and are considering retrofitting it.

Note the main reason I installed one is because I am running a Vincebar in the rear and so wanted to balance this with the strut brace in the front.

[Arith2]

It's not an M3 but a customer came in with a Racing Dynamics strut bar and this a warning against it. Most people that you get what you pay for and here's what not to buy.

I prefer stock strut bar over my Dinan one. Looks much better and it easier to remove and install. They accomplish the same exact thing.

[Feffman]

Links to the tubing connectors you used?

The smaller 1" for 0.120 wall tubing weld-in connector: https://www.kartek.com/parts/straigh...ll-tubing.html

Larger connector 1.25" with 0.120 wall tubing: https://www.kartek.com/parts/straigh...ll-tubing.html

We were at Autobahn Country Club yesterday and the modified Rogue Engineering strut brace performed flawlessly.

Feff

[tlow98]

The materials make up about 30% of the cost, not too bad. Its finding certain things because different suppliers will be out of stock on different things at different times. I had to wait 3 weeks to get the right bag tape.

The cost is mostly the time involved in laying up 7 layers of carbon, getting the consumables on and most of all getting the bag leak free. Then final trimming the part wearing coveralls and a respirator outside in the summer. That doesn't even include the time and materials to make the mold. I'd probably sell the mold for about the same - $1000. Quite frankly, if it was easy someone would have done this already a long time ago.

Case in point, no one really wants to pay the price for what it takes to make one. Really...$1000 is cheap for this plate when you compare what a CF roof goes for and those are easier to make. This is why I'm not offering to make parts for sale.

Back to the original topic...

oh I completely get it. Please don’t take my comments as a complaint or criticism. I’ve made fiberglass pieces before and so I have somewhat of an idea what it takes. And I’ve never even done a vacuum bag so I can only imagine. This was a labor of love and it’s awesome. Kudos to you!

But yes, back to strut bars.

[bigjae46]

The price of resin is insane right now. Prolly $100 worth of just that alone huh? I might be willing to pay to rent the mold :-)

The materials make up about 30% of the cost, not too bad. Its finding certain things because different suppliers will be out of stock on different things at different times. I had to wait 3 weeks to get the right bag tape.

The cost is mostly the time involved in laying up 7 layers of carbon, getting the consumables on and most of all getting the bag leak free. Then final trimming the part wearing coveralls and a respirator outside in the summer. That doesn't even include the time and materials to make the mold. I'd probably sell the mold for about the same - $1000. Quite frankly, if it was easy someone would have done this already a long time ago.

Case in point, no one really wants to pay the price for what it takes to make one. Really...$1000 is cheap for this plate when you compare what a CF roof goes for and those are easier to make. This is why I'm not offering to make parts for sale.

Back to the original topic...

[tlow98]

I can make more since I have a mold. I do plan to experiment in the future to see if I can make the part lighter while retaining the same stiffness. So I might be selling the one on my car at some point.

The problem with offering this on a per order basis to others is very few if anyone is going to pay $1000 for one. Anything less isn't worth my time.

The price of resin is insane right now. Prolly $100 worth of just that alone huh? I might be willing to pay to rent the mold :-)