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e46 M3 suspension setup, or how to not downgrade your car with suspension mods

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  • Drewrivera
    replied
    Anyone try the Koni set up by Dinan? Just seen them as i was putting the regular koni with stock springs on my cart. They say it lowers with same geometry and same feel has out the factory with the Dinan springs.. but not sure. I personally deal with all weather conditions so it's probably best not to drop at all for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • cobra
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
    Superfastmatt just published another thread relevant video that I thought was pretty interesting: https://youtu.be/Af6eYn3HOjw
    Great video thanks for sharing!

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Superfastmatt just published another thread relevant video that I thought was pretty interesting: https://youtu.be/Af6eYn3HOjw

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by repoman89 View Post

    I chose to use these with my CSL front sway, but don’t really get how it would stop the bolts from ripping the chassis apart. If anything I’d think aluminum brackets would want to break before steel ones, and be more likely to save the chassis (steel rear sway bar brackets are a popular upgrade on the E39 M5 which tends to break OE alu ones frequently)

    I am EE, not materials/structural engineer though.
    I know nothing about that, either.

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    Leave a comment:


  • terra
    replied
    Originally posted by repoman89 View Post

    I chose to use these with my CSL front sway, but don’t really get how it would stop the bolts from ripping the chassis apart. If anything I’d think aluminum brackets would want to break before steel ones, and be more likely to save the chassis (steel rear sway bar brackets are a popular upgrade on the E39 M5 which tends to break OE alu ones frequently)

    I am EE, not materials/structural engineer though.
    I'm not an engineer of any sort - my thought is if the bracket begins to deform, that could exert stresses on the mount in directions it is not designed to handle?

    Leave a comment:


  • repoman89
    replied
    Originally posted by terra View Post

    For what it's worth, the CSL does use steel brackets instead of aluminum for the front sway. Perhaps a mitigation for that failure mode?

    31356754336
    I chose to use these with my CSL front sway, but don’t really get how it would stop the bolts from ripping the chassis apart. If anything I’d think aluminum brackets would want to break before steel ones, and be more likely to save the chassis (steel rear sway bar brackets are a popular upgrade on the E39 M5 which tends to break OE alu ones frequently)

    I am EE, not materials/structural engineer though.

    Leave a comment:


  • Epsilon
    replied
    I haven't heard of anyone doing this, but can the front sway bar reinforcement plates be glued on with structural adhesive?

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by IamFODI View Post

    Obioban knows nothing about this

    Nothing at all
    Ha.

    Yep.

    Leave a comment:


  • terra
    replied
    Originally posted by Feffman View Post
    If you go bigger sway bars, may I suggest you reinforce the sway bar mounting area with Bimmerworld's reinforcement kit (https://www.bimmerworld.com/BimmerWo...i-330i-M3.html). Just a thought after last weekend.

    Feff
    For what it's worth, the CSL does use steel brackets instead of aluminum for the front sway. Perhaps a mitigation for that failure mode?

    31356754336

    Leave a comment:


  • IamFODI
    replied
    Originally posted by Feffman View Post

    This is a common know failure yours truly did not know about. The learning curve never ends. 🤑

    Feff
    Obioban knows nothing about this

    Nothing at all

    Leave a comment:


  • Feffman
    replied
    Originally posted by cobra View Post
    Yikes!
    This is a common know failure yours truly did not know about. The learning curve never ends. 🤑

    Feff

    Leave a comment:


  • cobra
    replied
    Originally posted by Feffman View Post
    If you go bigger sway bars, may I suggest you reinforce the sway bar mounting area with Bimmerworld's reinforcement kit (https://www.bimmerworld.com/BimmerWo...i-330i-M3.html). Just a thought after last weekend.

    Feff
    Yikes!

    Leave a comment:


  • Feffman
    replied
    If you go bigger sway bars, may I suggest you reinforce the sway bar mounting area with Bimmerworld's reinforcement kit (https://www.bimmerworld.com/BimmerWo...i-330i-M3.html). Just a thought after last weekend.

    Feff
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • cobra
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post
    I increasingly feel like the more I know about suspension, the less I know about suspension.

    ... and that deviating from stock as little as possible (but as much as necessary) is the best strategy-- especially in ride height and geometry.
    For me the hardest part as I learn more is letting go of things I thought were true. And then realizing I was wrong yet again just weeks/months later! Also, understanding there is no "right" answer, and instead multiple solutions. And what works for one person might not work for another.




    Regarding the lowering discussion, there is just hardly any room to lower the E46 if you want to maintain civility and performance. I highly recommend not lowering it more than a teeny tiny bit unless you run shorter shocks to maintain some travel before hitting the bump stops. And then you have to be careful about the tire hitting the fenders or fender liners. Not to mention all the geometry stuff that gets messed up when you start lowering.

    Then again some people just want it to look cool and don't care how it rides. To each their own!

    Leave a comment:


  • maupineda
    replied
    Originally posted by Bry5on View Post

    Stock e46 M3 rear has 4.5” droop, 5” bump, 1.4” until contacting the bump stop
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    I was referring to the fronts. Then i noted i used the wrong terminology. I meant struts

    for the rear, the B8 were a good 25mm shorter. So droop was the same shorter

    i will find some photos a they can be of use to some

    Leave a comment:

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