Originally posted by BigRussia
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e46 M3 suspension setup, or how to not downgrade your car with suspension mods
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How long are each of those springs out of curiosity?Originally posted by OldRanger View PostObioban I’m going to compare the Ohlins 628# rear to the TCK 700# rear paired with the Ohlins 400 fronts for on track duty with Intermediate drivers.
This Ohlins 628# stack (as set by RRT) measures to 6.5” inches and results in a 13” ride height. The TCK 700 stack is different. When the perch is fully lowered on the threads of the TCK ride height adjuster, this spring g has a 6.5” stack at the highest point of the coil, note that coil is not wound as flat at the top as the Ohlins.
I’m going to try these rear springs now.
I have a new GC front sway that I’m going to keep soft or medium soft. I have a square wheel setup with 265s and a -2.5 camber front -2.2 rear. On Tuesday I have an alignment and corner balance and asking for a bit more negative camber front.
Note: TCK springs do not pair well with the Ohlins plastic
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Obioban I’m going to compare the Ohlins 628# rear to the TCK 700# rear paired with the Ohlins 400 fronts for on track duty with Intermediate drivers.
This Ohlins 628# stack (as set by RRT) measures to 6.5” inches and results in a 13” ride height. The TCK 700 stack is different. When the perch is fully lowered on the threads of the TCK ride height adjuster, this spring g has a 6.5” stack at the highest point of the coil, note that coil is not wound as flat at the top as the Ohlins.
I’m going to try these rear springs now.
I have a new GC front sway that I’m going to keep soft or medium soft. I have a square wheel setup with 265s and a -2.5 camber front -2.2 rear. On Tuesday I have an alignment and corner balance and asking for a bit more negative camber front.
Note: TCK springs do not pair well with the Ohlins plastic
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Originally posted by bavarian3 View PostHas anyone done this with JRZ's? I bought a set of RS Two's and am looking for some springs to complete the kit. Perhaps overthinking it but I'm wondering if there could be issues up front with such a soft spring if the damper is valved for a higher rate.You would probably need to revalve if you change the spring rate too much. There is some wiggle room with the adjuster but once you get out of that range you will not be properly matched anymore. In my experience with basic valving, a standard architecture, and single bi-directional shaft adjuster, you can go about +/- 10% in spring rate before it gets noticeably compromised.Originally posted by Cronenberged View Post
I mean Cobra built his off of Fox's with piggy backs, so yes. You just have to get them tuned for your application. I grasp it enough to understand the spring rates, but tuning a shock to your needs that's a whole different science and I paid FCM for this.
That is, of course, assuming it was tuned properly in the first place.
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I mean Cobra built his off of Fox's with piggy backs, so yes. You just have to get them tuned for your application. I grasp it enough to understand the spring rates, but tuning a shock to your needs that's a whole different science and I paid FCM for this.Originally posted by bavarian3 View PostHas anyone done this with JRZ's? I bought a set of RS Two's and am looking for some springs to complete the kit. Perhaps overthinking it but I'm wondering if there could be issues up front with such a soft spring if the damper is valved for a higher rate.
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Has anyone done this with JRZ's? I bought a set of RS Two's and am looking for some springs to complete the kit. Perhaps overthinking it but I'm wondering if there could be issues up front with such a soft spring if the damper is valved for a higher rate.
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I have the TCK x2s with their 450lb springs in the front. My front ride height peaks at 13.75" from fender to the center of the wheel with -4.0 camber. I know if you run less camber then your ride height will change, forget which way. The adjusters are near the top, I can maybe squeeze another 1/4"? Not sure how close to stock that would be. I have a finger width gap between the tire and fender.Originally posted by gaiakai View PostSo what would be a good option if I'm trying to keep it relatively close to stock? I'm just looking for a slightly lower ride height (less than 1") and less body roll. I only track a handful of times a year so I'm not ready to commit to a 5k MCS/JRZ setup, and it is a daily and canyon car as well. TCK S/A or koni yellows paired with dinan springs (I think this is ez flat ride?) are what currently what I've narrowed it down to from my research, but open to suggestions.
The rear is easy, I could probably be a half inch higher than stock.
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Fair enough.Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
Not plug and play though. They aren't flat ride (though you can do the math and spec them with different springs through 3DM) and you need to mess with ride height adjustment a bit to get bump/droop travel into acceptable ranges.
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Not plug and play though. They aren't flat ride (though you can do the math and spec them with different springs through 3DM) and you need to mess with ride height adjustment a bit to get bump/droop travel into acceptable ranges.Originally posted by IamFODI View PostÖhlins.
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Öhlins.Originally posted by gaiakai View PostSo what would be a good option if I'm trying to keep it relatively close to stock? I'm just looking for a slightly lower ride height (less than 1") and less body roll. I only track a handful of times a year so I'm not ready to commit to a 5k MCS/JRZ setup, and it is a daily and canyon car as well. TCK S/A or koni yellows paired with dinan springs (I think this is ez flat ride?) are what currently what I've narrowed it down to from my research, but open to suggestions.
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So what would be a good option if I'm trying to keep it relatively close to stock? I'm just looking for a slightly lower ride height (less than 1") and less body roll. I only track a handful of times a year so I'm not ready to commit to a 5k MCS/JRZ setup, and it is a daily and canyon car as well. TCK S/A or koni yellows paired with dinan springs (I think this is ez flat ride?) are what currently what I've narrowed it down to from my research, but open to suggestions.
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The funniest part is they come with a label that says they are pre-set to Dinan custom specifications (I think it was something like 1/4 turn in front and 1.5 turns in rear) when you order them, but when I checked they were at full soft.Originally posted by Obioban View Post
Pretty sure it's a lie. Someone stuck them on a shock dyno, and they were the same. Seems like the only thing that is dinan specific is the setting (which you can recreate for free).
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Pretty sure it's a lie. Someone stuck them on a shock dyno, and they were the same. Seems like the only thing that is dinan specific is the setting (which you can recreate for free).Originally posted by cobra View Post
I have the "Dinan" Konis. No way to tell if they're actually different other than hearsay on the forums, without testing them side-by-side on a shock dyno.
When I asked Dinan directly 10 years ago, they told me they were different. So that's either ignorance or a lie.
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I have the "Dinan" Konis. No way to tell if they're actually different other than hearsay on the forums, without testing them side-by-side on a shock dyno.Originally posted by Drewrivera View PostAnyone try the Koni set up by Dinan? Just seen them as i was putting the regular koni with stock springs on my cart. They say it lowers with same geometry and same feel has out the factory with the Dinan springs.. but not sure. I personally deal with all weather conditions so it's probably best not to drop at all for me.
When I asked Dinan directly 10 years ago, they told me they were different. So that's either ignorance or a lie.
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