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Please Help Solve this Convertible Top Fail to Open Problem

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    Please Help Solve this Convertible Top Fail to Open Problem

    I recently had to raise the top due to rain, and it closed normally until about 3" from lock down position at the windshield. Manually cranked it into place, and checked for the infamous broken wire(s). I repaired a wire in that frame hinge area 3 years ago, and found a different wire had broke this time. After the repair, the top will go into the closed position, seems to correctly lock in that position, but it will not move at all when pressing the button for opening. Schwaben Pro finds zero related faults, and seems to show every switch, module, function, etc to be OK. However, the red light on the console switch still flashes, stopping only when I press and hold the up or down button. The wire repair I did about 3 years ago continued to perform and the car was normal until this current issue. The only thing that I can determine to be different now is this: after pressing and releasing the "open" button and ignition off, I can hear a moderately loud tick-tok sound coming from the CVM area, or maybe from the hydraulic pump area. That sound continues for maybe 10 seconds, then stops.

    Questions for the members: has anyone had a similar failure after repairing that broken wire, and if so, what was the fix? Can anyone direct me to the positively correct procedure for resetting that flapper motor under the rear seat? I've read that there is an "initialization" procedure for that motor which should fix a problem similar to mine - any truth to that?
    Thanks for any support - I'm now ready to try most anything!
    Steve

    #2
    Usually clicking is the gear popping out of the motor under the back seat. You can read about the fix within this post.

    There is no reset sequence on the e46, see this post from e46fanatics from Taylor. (who is about as informed on the topic of our convertibles as anybody).
    3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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      #3
      Sounds like the lid latch motor under the back seat isn't clocked right for the hall effect sensor in it to send the "all closed" signal to the CVM. I replaced mine last year so my 48 year old memory is a little fuzzy, but as I recall, to "set" it in the proper/locked position, with the top fully locked at the header, you press the button on top of the lid latch motor and turn the other gear one way or the other (I seem to remember clockwise, but 50/50 chance I'm wrong) with the same hex wrench you used to crank the top down. It should only turn a few degrees then stop. At that point try the dash buttons. Pretty sure it's detailed in the owner's manual if your car has one.

      If you're getting clicking from that motor, best start looking for a new or good used one, because it's going to get worse. I prolonged the life of my original for a couple years with an aluminum cover a guy on Ebay tooled up, but it gave up for good last year.

      Also, what oceanside said above.


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        #4
        Originally posted by Rhythim View Post
        Sounds like the lid latch motor under the back seat isn't clocked right for the hall effect sensor in it to send the "all closed" signal to the CVM. I replaced mine last year so my 48 year old memory is a little fuzzy, but as I recall, to "set" it in the proper/locked position, with the top fully locked at the header, you press the button on top of the lid latch motor and turn the other gear one way or the other (I seem to remember clockwise, but 50/50 chance I'm wrong) with the same hex wrench you used to crank the top down. It should only turn a few degrees then stop. At that point try the dash buttons. Pretty sure it's detailed in the owner's manual if your car has one.

        If you're getting clicking from that motor, best start looking for a new or good used one, because it's going to get worse. I prolonged the life of my original for a couple years with an aluminum cover a guy on Ebay tooled up, but it gave up for good last year.

        Also, what oceanside said above.

        You may be on the mark about the Hall sensor. I have that metal cover for the motor and gear set which has been trouble free for several years. But, when I opened the gear cover, that hall sensor was not in its proper place, and I just dropped it back in the slot with no regard for the correct alignment of the gear. I'll give it a go tomorrow and report results.
        Thanks!

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          #5
          First I removed the metal cover from the drive motor under the rear seat. With the top fully closed and locked at the windshield, using the Allen wrench, I turned the assembly clockwise just enough to remove the small, center gear. With that removed, I could see into the slot where the Hall sensor fits, then further turned the wrench fully clockwise. At that point, the boss on the underside of the gear becomes visible, and that's where the sensor has to fit. Insert the smallest gear previously removed, insert the Hall sensor into the slot mentioned above, and release the Allen wrench. In my case the whole affair stayed in place, the flashing red light is out, and a quick check of the open button seems to work. Have no idea how that sensor came out of its proper position, but it seems to be fine now. Still have to bundle up those overhead wires, but it all links like a go. Thanks for your help.

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