Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Help Refreshing Rear Control Arm Bushings?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Help Refreshing Rear Control Arm Bushings?

    I've started replacing bushings in the rear control arms, and am now ready to go for those inside bushings. The car has 100K+ so I also want to refresh the inside bushings while I'm at this, but the inside bolts are known to hit the axle shafts on removal. Who has a good hack for getting the control arm inside bushing bolts out without dealing with the subframe or dropping the half shaft? I've seen reference to loosening some bolt or another to muscle the differential aside just enough to get these bolts out, but don't see any support for that on the 'net. Thanks!

    #2
    Thinking back to when I dropped my rear end I don't think you have a choice but to disconnect the drive shaft from the diff, unbolt the two rear diff bolts, the front diff bolt, and then get/wiggle the diff out of the way.
    3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

    Comment


      #3
      Seconded to above. I had to pull the diff

      Comment


        #4
        Bummer! Looks like I'll be having the local indy do all those and subframe, too!
        Thanks!

        Comment


          #5
          You can get the diff out of the way enough to remove the bolt without disconnecting the driveshaft, it has enough play. Only the three differential bolts need to come out. However, I'm not sure if you need more room than that if you're not doing the whole arm. There certainly wouldn't be much space for a bulky tool.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by 01SG View Post
            You can get the diff out of the way enough to remove the bolt without disconnecting the driveshaft, it has enough play. Only the three differential bolts need to come out. However, I'm not sure if you need more room than that if you're not doing the whole arm. There certainly wouldn't be much space for a bulky tool.
            My intention was to replace the bushings at both ends of the upper and the lower control arms. I have that smaller bushing tool that uses a long center bolt, not the one with the huge "C" clamp. Not clear on comment about needing more room. My plan was to remove both control arms and do the bushings on the bench. Am I on the right track about pushing the differential to the side a little bit?
            Last edited by BubbaTree; 03-27-2021, 04:53 PM.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by BubbaTree View Post

              My intention was to replace the bushings at both ends of the upper and the lower control arms. I have that smaller bushing tool that uses a long center bolt, not the one with the huge "C" clamp. Not clear on comment about needing more room. My plan was to remove both control arms and do the bushings on the bench. Am I on the right track about pushing the differential to the side a little bit?
              Should be right. When the diff bolts are loosened it gives you enough room to pull the control arms out. Still a PITA though...

              Gesendet von meinem LON-L29 mit Tapatalk

              2002 E46 M3 TiAg Coupé >> full tracktool conversion @m346gt
              2000 986 Boxster S >> ice cream getter
              Past: E46 330Ci, 944S2, 996 C4S

              Comment


                #8
                Hmm, I don't know what I was thinking about getting a tool in there, I must have been smoking something, forget that. But yes, once the three bolts are out the diff will move in any direction you want it.

                Comment


                  #9
                  You don't need to disconnect the driveshaft or half shafts from the diff. Just remove the 3 diff bolts, then you can use jack/pry bar to get the bolts out. You will need the extra prying on the driver side.

                  When removing the 3 diff bolts, remember to remove the 2x rear ones first, then do the front one. Reinstalling, thread in the front one, thread in the 2x rear ones, torque the front one, then torque the 2x rear ones.

                  Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                  Youtube DIYs and more

                  All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                  PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
                    You don't need to disconnect the driveshaft or half shafts from the diff. Just remove the 3 diff bolts, then you can use jack/pry bar to get the bolts out. You will need the extra prying on the driver side.

                    When removing the 3 diff bolts, remember to remove the 2x rear ones first, then do the front one. Reinstalling, thread in the front one, thread in the 2x rear ones, torque the front one, then torque the 2x rear ones.

                    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
                    Sounds like a good plan. With the diff aside, can the inner bushings be removed with the control arms in place, or must they be removed?
                    Thanks for the great advice on dealing with this PITA!!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by BubbaTree View Post

                      Sounds like a good plan. With the diff aside, can the inner bushings be removed with the control arms in place, or must they be removed?
                      Thanks for the great advice on dealing with this PITA!!
                      You have to get the control arm out.
                      On the upper control arm the bushing even has to be pressed out.
                      BTW, while in there also the perfect opportunity to replace the outer bushings of both control arms.

                      Gesendet von meinem LON-L29 mit Tapatalk

                      2002 E46 M3 TiAg Coupé >> full tracktool conversion @m346gt
                      2000 986 Boxster S >> ice cream getter
                      Past: E46 330Ci, 944S2, 996 C4S

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by BubbaTree View Post

                        Sounds like a good plan. With the diff aside, can the inner bushings be removed with the control arms in place, or must they be removed?
                        Thanks for the great advice on dealing with this PITA!!
                        No, control arms sit in tight pockets in the carrier, so you have to remove them.

                        You will have to twist and turn the swaybar to get it out (leave the endlinks on the swaybar, unless you have something easy to remove/aftermarket), and don't forget the light level sensor on pass side that attaches to the upper control arm.

                        Also side note. I have a Schwaben bolt through bushing removal kit and was not able to find a cup to press out those bushings. I had to get O'Reilly's 1" (for the upper control arm) and 1 1/16" (for the lower control arm) sockets. Might not apply to you at all, but thought I'd mention it. You want to be pushing on the outer-most metal sleeve, not the inner one through which the bolt goes.

                        Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                        Youtube DIYs and more

                        All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                        PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
                          You don't need to disconnect the driveshaft or half shafts from the diff. Just remove the 3 diff bolts, then you can use jack/pry bar to get the bolts out. You will need the extra prying on the driver side.

                          When removing the 3 diff bolts, remember to remove the 2x rear ones first, then do the front one. Reinstalling, thread in the front one, thread in the 2x rear ones, torque the front one, then torque the 2x rear ones.

                          Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
                          A somewhat related question concerns the front differential bushing. I also have a center bolt bushing tool, and am wondering if I can get that front bushing out/back in using that tool, and without removing the diff.
                          Thanks!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by BubbaTree View Post

                            A somewhat related question concerns the front differential bushing. I also have a center bolt bushing tool, and am wondering if I can get that front bushing out/back in using that tool, and without removing the diff.
                            Thanks!
                            For the front bushing, you need to move the diff quite a bit out of the way (easier to probably fully remove it). You want to press out the existing bushing toward the middle of the car from the outside (that is the shorter path to squeeze it out vs pushing it into the groove pocket via which you access the bolt), and you need room for that, that's where the pinion and front diff input flange will be in the way. You can not simply unbolt the driveshaft from the diff and move diff backwards, you start running into evap/trunk spare tire very quickly with the rear diff bushing horns. Diff comes out and goes back into its pocket in the subframe at a pretty steep angle relative to the subframe/trunk floor.

                            Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                            Youtube DIYs and more

                            All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                            PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
                              For the front bushing, you need to move the diff quite a bit out of the way (easier to probably fully remove it). You want to press out the existing bushing toward the middle of the car from the outside (that is the shorter path to squeeze it out vs pushing it into the groove pocket via which you access the bolt), and you need room for that, that's where the pinion and front diff input flange will be in the way. You can not simply unbolt the driveshaft from the diff and move diff backwards, you start running into evap/trunk spare tire very quickly with the rear diff bushing horns. Diff comes out and goes back into its pocket in the subframe at a pretty steep angle relative to the subframe/trunk floor.

                              Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
                              I'm still working up the nerve to tackle this project, and hope this is my last question of folks who have replaced the rear differential bushings. Disregarding the front diff. bushing for now, has anyone been able to remove the diff. cover plate without dropping the differential? Those 2 topmost 16mm bolts that hold the cover in place look like they won't come out without somehow moving the diff. around. Thanks!

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X