Help with half shafts please

[elbert]

Ok, so I replaced the rear wheel bearing. It actually went pretty smoothly for the most part (except when I flipped one of the parking brake shoes), but now I'm stuck getting the half shaft in.
It slid right in for about 90% of the way, but I'm struggling with the rest. I've resorted to using a dead blow and a block of wood, but it's slow going.
I thought there might be some grit stuck in there, so I've taken it out a couple times to clean it up. I was dumb enough to put copper anti-seize, and tried to remove as much as possible.

Any ideas? Is this normal? This is the first half shaft I've done, so I don't have any basis for comparison.
Thanks

[White_335i]

Do you have enough threads coming out of the hub to catch the driveshaft nut on? If you do, put the nut on and tighten it. It should start pulling the shaft in. If not, there is a tool to help with installing driveshafts. I know bavauto used to sell them and I think Pelican/ECS started carrying them now. They go for $70 ish.

[sapote]

It is best to mark the drive shaft spline and the wheel hub before disassemble to keep them at the original mating position. Use CV joint grease to lobe both male and female splines, after cleaning them really good.

[elbert]

I'm a moron. I should have used a longer piece of wood to hammer on the outer CV joint, not the inner. I think I was messing with it for too long and wasn't thinking.

Do you have enough threads coming out of the hub to catch the driveshaft nut on? If you do, put the nut on and tighten it. It should start pulling the shaft in. If not, there is a tool to help with installing driveshafts. I know bavauto used to sell them and I think Pelican/ECS started carrying them now. They go for $70 ish.

At the time, I didn't have enough threads, but once I did, I eventually used the nut to pull it the rest of the way.

Thanks for the info on the tool. I wish I had known about it earlier. BMW used to have one, but it is NLA.
I ordered it just in case for the left side, not to mention I probably need to replace the right half-shaft soon enough with all the hammering.
In case anyone needs a link, it's the CV Axle Shaft Puller / Wheel Bearing Hub Installer Kit - Bavarian Autosport

[Obioban]

Tool is the way to go. Especially if your car has ever seen salt, you can be hammering for days without it.

[F1Dryvr]

I spent 3 weeks attempting to reinstall my half shafts. Freezer heat heavy hammers, tools nothing worked. I finally realized that (most likely) during disassembly whatever i used to knock the shaft out of the hub must have mushroomed the splined shaft. It was extremely subtle but just enough to make it seize in the hub. I just filed it down and went right in after that.

[elbert]

If not, there is a tool to help with installing driveshafts. I know bavauto used to sell them and I think Pelican/ECS started carrying them now. They go for $70 ish.

OK, for anyone reading this in the future, get this tool (I put a link in a post #4). It literally took 5 minutes to get the half shaft fully seated, versus an hour or two of hammering that was needed for the other side. Thanks again for letting me know about it.

I spent 3 weeks attempting to reinstall my half shafts. Freezer heat heavy hammers, tools nothing worked. I finally realized that (most likely) during disassembly whatever i used to knock the shaft out of the hub must have mushroomed the splined shaft. It was extremely subtle but just enough to make it seize in the hub. I just filed it down and went right in after that.

Thanks for the suggestion. Mine actually came out pretty easy, but I took a look just to make sure, and they looked ok.

[D-O]

Bringing back an old one. The TIS says to lightly oil the splines on the axle before drawing into the hub. Earlier in this thread CV joint grease was mentioned instead. Customarily I would use anti-seize. Is there any reason not to use CV grease or anti-seize?

Speaking of CV grease, what is recommended for the CV joint at the rear end of the drive shaft?

Last but not least, when installing the diff the TIS says to attach the drive shaft to the diff with three bolts and then insert the front diff bolts hand tight followed by the rear diff bolts hand tight. Next is to torque the front bolt and then the rears. How important is it to attache the drive shaft before putting in the bolts hand tight?

Thanks

[bigjae46]

I used liqui moly long life grease in the CV boots. It takes 1 tube on the dot but you have to factor in waste. Recommend 3 tubes for 2 CVs. I bought the GKN CV boot kit and the clamps DO NOT fit. I bought clamps from McMaster-Carr

https://www.mcmaster.com/52545K105 - outer clamp
https://www.mcmaster.com/52545K83 - inner clamp

At this point in the E46 life, I think new rear wheel hubs are a very good idea. But make sure the splines are really clean. I think I used anti-seize but I have new wheel hubs so my axles go in relatively easy.

[D-O]

Many thanks. I did go with new hubs - mine really showed their age. The axle pull tool suggested by robgill was a big help putting it together.

Jesse