Need to replace my rear diff. How hard is it to replace, what needs to be done?
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Rear v brace, s2 of exhaust, rear swaybar have to be removed. Diff to driveshaft and output shafts from diff have to be unbolted.
I used a scissor jack under the aluminum fins, you have to get it to a pretty steep angle to clear the bottom of the subframe and the evap plastics/spare tire well.
21mm, e12, e14, 11mm, 13mm, 14mm, 16mm, 5mm hex.
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All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.
PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc. -
Exhaust does not need to be touched to remove or install diff.
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Theoretically the vbrace or s2/exhaust don't need to be touched. I find it easier to disconnect the diff from driveshaft (and on reassembly to realign everything back up) when I can remove the heat shield from the driveshaft tunnel and have a clear view that the cv joint mates appropriately (along with gaskets and grease) to the input flange on the diff. Also makes not cross-threading the front 21mm diff bolt easier. Few more steps for peace of mind.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Youtube DIYs and more
All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.
PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.Comment
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