To buy or not to buy? That is the question!

[mugm3]

It can swell to a 20k car easily especially with paint work (maybe/probably more). I wouldn't turn it down completely but I think 7k is a better price point, for all you know the engine knocks, suspension is done, vanos tabs gone, cracks etc). Take him 7k cash and say "take it". He will sell.

I am still waiting to hear back from them about my offer for 9g's. I am not holding my breath though. Also I am not gonna push for the car. If it is meant to be then it will work out. If not there are always more out there to be had.

[jbfrancis3]

I think you could easily find yourself spending more like $15-$20k fairly quickly into ownership (that's in addition to whatever price you agree on).

[mugm3]

I think you could easily find yourself spending more like $15-$20k fairly quickly into ownership (that's in addition to whatever price you agree on).

I would agree with ya on that. That is why I am not to worried about if it happens or not. I can always find a different one. I am gonna give it to the end of the week. If no answer just gonna drop it and move on.

[bumada]

Sounds like a fun project. If you have the ability, money, and time to work on it, go for it. $9k is a solid starting price.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

[Ob917]

That’s a lot of cash for that car.

[BlueBimmers]

Let it be and see what happens. Appearing too eager just weakens your position with reluctant seller. Who BYW if he's a dealer is probably making the exact same calculations himself re car's value.

[01SG]

Something is probably seriously wrong with it. Why wouldn't they just put in a battery, fix the clutch, and then try to sell it for twice as much money?

[kermmmit7]

Just for reference. Two weeks ago I bought Imola/ red convertible for 6k. 102k miles . Big dent on hood , front bumper needs to be repainted. Clutch was totally worn , coolant was leaking , power steering, oil pan too. Some other cosmetics issues. Bunch of codes included one vanos code. I bought because I wanted save this car and I do some work by self so I can save bunch of money. Honestly you can't find out everything what is wrong with car during inspection. I already spent 2.5k for parts and I still don't have everything, as some missing interior plastic covers etc . Oil pan gasket was leaking so I decided replace rod bearings when I was already there. If you want to keep it I recommend to do it - look on the picture. If you don't do it by self shop will charge you 2k for it. I probably spent little more for parts because during rod bearings and clutch work I replaced all gaskets , mounts, guibo, all filters, fluids etc. I didn't see torn trailing arm bushings during inspection , so this is additional work than alignment etc. I am pretty sure there is some more things to fix because I didn't have time to check everything. I also replaced sway bar links - Rest of suspension is still good but I know , this will need attention in near future because car has already 100k miles. I still don't know if I have to rebuild vanos , I cleared codes but didn't have opportunity to drive it to see if they come back. You can't say that you spend extra 5-10k to refresh it because there is always some additional cost 50$ for this, another 30 for this and on the end you have few thousand. I am talking only about parts cost. You have to decide what you want, because maintenance of those cars is really expensive . Sometime is better pay more for really good cared car than pay less and spend time and money to fix it. If you want to use shops to do all work I think you should skip it because this can cost you a lot of money. As I previously mentioned I bought it because I wanted save it and I like to work with those cars during weekends as my hobby because I like to see best of M3 in good condition and I am not in rush to drive it or eventually sell it.
I am sorry for my grammar , english is not my first language.

[01SG]

I cleared codes but didn't have opportunity to drive it to see if they come back.

Don't just drive the car with Vanos codes not knowing what they are. It may very well blow up. That's why my car has a 06 motor.

[kermmmit7]

Don't just drive the car with Vanos codes not knowing what they are. It may very well blow up. That's why my car has a 06 motor.

I need to drive it or run it to see if this code come back or not. This can be some old code because car didn't have check engine light on. But thanks for opinion.

[mugm3]

Let it be and see what happens. Appearing too eager just weakens your position with reluctant seller. Who BYW if he's a dealer is probably making the exact same calculations himself re car's value.

Sorry for the delay in response been out of town. I am. I have not heard back from them at all. Which tells me he prob doesn't want to sell it. Plus after thinking on it for awhile I am not really comfortable paying that much for a car not knowing what could truly be wrong with it.

[mugm3]

Something is probably seriously wrong with it. Why wouldn't they just put in a battery, fix the clutch, and then try to sell it for twice as much money?

You very well could be right. I have had conflicting stories on the car as I have been trying to buy it for over a year. First time around was it threw a rod bearing and they needed to be done. Most recent was it idles. So as of right now I am not to worried if it doesn't workout. Plenty of others out there to be had.

[mugm3]

Just for reference. Two weeks ago I bought Imola/ red convertible for 6k. 102k miles . Big dent on hood , front bumper needs to be repainted. Clutch was totally worn , coolant was leaking , power steering, oil pan too. Some other cosmetics issues. Bunch of codes included one vanos code. I bought because I wanted save this car and I do some work by self so I can save bunch of money. Honestly you can't find out everything what is wrong with car during inspection. I already spent 2.5k for parts and I still don't have everything, as some missing interior plastic covers etc . Oil pan gasket was leaking so I decided replace rod bearings when I was already there. If you want to keep it I recommend to do it - look on the picture. If you don't do it by self shop will charge you 2k for it. I probably spent little more for parts because during rod bearings and clutch work I replaced all gaskets , mounts, guibo, all filters, fluids etc. I didn't see torn trailing arm bushings during inspection , so this is additional work than alignment etc. I am pretty sure there is some more things to fix because I didn't have time to check everything. I also replaced sway bar links - Rest of suspension is still good but I know , this will need attention in near future because car has already 100k miles. I still don't know if I have to rebuild vanos , I cleared codes but didn't have opportunity to drive it to see if they come back. You can't say that you spend extra 5-10k to refresh it because there is always some additional cost 50$ for this, another 30 for this and on the end you have few thousand. I am talking only about parts cost. You have to decide what you want, because maintenance of those cars is really expensive . Sometime is better pay more for really good cared car than pay less and spend time and money to fix it. If you want to use shops to do all work I think you should skip it because this can cost you a lot of money. As I previously mentioned I bought it because I wanted save it and I like to work with those cars during weekends as my hobby because I like to see best of M3 in good condition and I am not in rush to drive it or eventually sell it.
I am sorry for my grammar , english is not my first language.

I appreciate what you are trying to tell me. This isn't my first go around with an e46 m3. I had an 03.5 smg that I recently sold. It needed some work as well. I just didn't like the fact it was ti over grey nappa leather. I will find another one at some point maybe. I know what ya mean by stuff adding up quickly. Esp the little stuff. I do all the work myself so no need for shops atm. I hope you are able to get your car running and in the shape you would like it to be.

[ra2fanatic]

Idk. The fact that it’s going to get resprayed anyway doesn’t make the AW/Cin interior that much of a winning combo in my eyes. Maybe different story if you didn’t have to repaint it. I’d be too much of a stickler to pick this up and I know I’d probably spend 20k+ in restoring it.