CMP (or other) subframe bushings - DIY'd install? Fitment? Partially drop subframe?

[Tbonem3]

Ya I suppose so, thanks for bringing it up.

[Tonggi]

Good to know I should freeze them the night before. I will be tackling this in the future!

[repoman89]

In for your thoughts on the roll center geometry correction once they’re installed. I’m curious if it’s worthwhile and what it feels like compared to regular height bushings. I had the Turner aluminum solids put in before these came out.

[mrgizmo04]

I might as well say that on reinstallation of the subframe, I was bolting up the subframe by itself (no control arms, diff, etc) and I have 4 studs (2 front and 2 rear from cmp topside reinforcement, not just 2 front like stock), and it was a bit of a challenge to line up the 4 corners. CMP holes are a bit smaller, metal does bend/fatigue a bit (even without cracks), so the studs might not all be exactly parallel. So what Heinz mentioned will also be true with driveshaft wanting to allow the subframe to follow an arc.

On parking brake cables, they run through a guide in the subframe, and if you are to remove the 2x 10mm nuts from under the handle in the cabin, you still have to release the cable sleeve/sheathing which sits above the driveshaft and goes into the body. I dont know how much give/play tolerance there will be to drop the subframe without disconnecting them.

But on overall how far you will need to drop the subframe (assuming front hex studs stay in) - until the top of the 2 piece poly bushing clears the stud, plus extra room that the top half of the poly sits inside it's subframe hoop, so it's prob close to 5-6 inches.

It's going to be an adventure T. Because then you also have to think about the upper control arm dropping down from the chassis and unloading/flinging your springs in whatever direction, lower control arms spreading out the trailing arms, etc.

The way I approached my (yet another) rebush, I took off each piece separately (diff, swaybar, shocks, springs, each control arm, then subframe by itself). Granted I was also swapping diffs. I left the trailing arm/rtab connected and the brake line/caliper untouched. I disconnected the parking brake cable in the cabin and had the s2 of exhaust and driveshaft off the car, so the other end of the parking brake (the one on the brake shoes) was untouched and the cable is flexible enough to just fish out through the subframe and move to the side and leave connected to the hub. Trailing arm was supported by a plank of wood under the outer lower control arm (just be careful it will be wonky in lateral direction since there are no control arms preventing movement in/out).

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[Tbonem3]

Thanks (I would remove wheels/spring, undo shocks). Ya it's not looking like it's worth it. Unless I'm doing another diff swap or some other large project. I not unhappy at all with my akgs, just thought I could benefit from a raised subframe and stick the akgs in my other car. At least I have adjustable arms to get around the camber issue with lowered subf.

Thanks for everyone's thoughts!

[Epsilon]

Thanks (I would remove wheels/spring, undo shocks). Ya it's not looking like it's worth it. Unless I'm doing another diff swap or some other large project. I not unhappy at all with my akgs, just thought I could benefit from a raised subframe and stick the akgs in my other car. At least I have adjustable arms to get around the camber issue with lowered subf.

Thanks for everyone's thoughts!

I noticed you don't have top side reinforcement. Why not do everything at the same time?

[Tbonem3]

I'm doing the rear GTR brace which only requires removing the rear subframe bolts to drill upwards, then replace with long threaded rod. Super easy, and wouldn't share much at all with R&R subf bushes.