Motor Mount Replacement Method

[Caveman]

I am considering the replacement of my motor mounts. Can I safely jack up the motor in order to remove the old mounts and install the new items? If so, are there any special steps/considerations I must take? The M3 YouTube videos I have come across involved lowering the subframe, but I have seen videos of other E46 variants using the jack method.

[mrgizmo04]

I used an engine support bar from the top and jack from the bottom, but I also used pieces of wood with the jack so I would not be jacking up the oil pan directly. The studs on motor mounts are a few inches long so you need quite a bit of clearance.

[oceansize]

I did the exact same as gizmo. Had to disconnect a few wiring harnesses around the fan shroud and I may have removed the shroud itself. Also removed the air filter housing. bend the heat shield a little on the passenger side to get access to nut from top. Raise slowly, take your time.

[clawhamm3r]

I did it with a jack and a block of wood. Lifted passenger side by the AC compressor...can't remember on the driver side, probably power steering pump?...just avoid the oil pan.

[mrgizmo04]

If you really want to just jack from the bottom with wood blocks, I think you can use the arms that go from engine block to the mount itself. I remember I fit some blocks of wood between swaybar and steering rack, around there. That's a lot of weight to lift by ps pump or ac compressor, but if it worked, it worked.

[Caveman]

If you really want to just jack from the bottom with wood blocks, I think you can use the arms that go from engine block to the mount itself. I remember I fit some blocks of wood between swaybar and steering rack, around there. That's a lot of weight to lift by ps pump or ac compressor, but if it worked, it worked.

1. Should I loosen the transmission mounts and disconnect any of the exhaust sections?
2. Is Lemforder the way to go?

[mrgizmo04]

1. Should I loosen the transmission mounts and disconnect any of the exhaust sections?
2. Is Lemforder the way to go?

Lemforder is oem so fine.

Depends on what you are doing and which way you are raising/lowering. Just remember that the entire engine is supported via 2 engine mounts that sit in top of the front subframe and the only reason it doesn't tip forward toward the radiator or back toward the firewall is because it is attached to tranny bellhousing and tranny is then held up to the frame via 2 tranny mounts. Yes, that is basically it , supporting all that weight.

That said, you dont have to loosen the tranny mounts. If you are going to be raising the engine via support bar from top and/or jack and wood from bottom you will have to remove the cabin filter box to gain a bit of room, but it's not a lot because at some point bellhousing and tranny will start interfering with the tranny tunnel and firewall. If you are going to be holding the engine level via support bar/jack and instead lowering the front subframe, you also don't need to loosen the tranny mounts.

[r4dr]

FCPEuro also sells Corteco for these mounts, listed as the OE. Slightly cheaper than Lemforder.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...r-11812228298l

I'm going to be doing this myself in the coming weeks so I appreciate everyone's tips.

[oceansize]

I used corteco and they are identical to what came out. Use without worry.

[jk715]

Did this recently with a block of wood and jacked up one side at a time. Remove strut bar, fan shroud (pins), free the fan (4 torque bolts). Do one mount at time. Remove mount top bolt, remove bottom bolt, jack up and replace mount and torque down bolts. Repeat for other side. The should engine lift about 2" and tilt slightly to clear the engine mount top studs. Don't recall the exact jacking points but I did use the oil pan for the driver side mount.

[Caveman]

Lemforder is oem so fine.

Depends on what you are doing and which way you are raising/lowering. Just remember that the entire engine is supported via 2 engine mounts that sit in top of the front subframe and the only reason it doesn't tip forward toward the radiator or back toward the firewall is because it is attached to tranny bellhousing and tranny is then held up to the frame via 2 tranny mounts. Yes, that is basically it , supporting all that weight.

That said, you dont have to loosen the tranny mounts. If you are going to be raising the engine via support bar from top and/or jack and wood from bottom you will have to remove the cabin filter box to gain a bit of room, but it's not a lot because at some point bellhousing and tranny will start interfering with the tranny tunnel and firewall. If you are going to be holding the engine level via support bar/jack and instead lowering the front subframe, you also don't need to loosen the tranny mounts.

Sounds good. Is it recommended to apply Loctite to the threads?

[Tbonem3]

I wouldn't. Nuts are nyloc iirc or at least some type of luck nut. Corteco is original bmw in this case. And it's E9x mounts now, superseding the E46.

[mrgizmo04]

Sounds good. Is it recommended to apply Loctite to the threads?

No

[Caveman]

Mission accomplished, thanks for everyone's advice/input.

[JamesSJ1]

Bumping this thread for a question.

With all the heat shields and coverings on the passenger side around the engine, headers, etc., I can't get a shot down to the top bolt from above where I could get a torque wrench on it. I was able to remove it just fine from underneath. Are you just tightening it down as much as possible from underneath in the limited space and calling it good? I'm sure I could get it close to the 33 ft/lb spec, but no way I could get a torque wrench in there.

I'm just finishing up my rod bearing replacement now, so subframe is dropped.