Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Vincebar Group Buy 2021

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Cubieman
    replied
    I have my Vincebar mocked up with the bolts holding it in place ready to scribe my cutting area but I cannot help but notice the gap between the bar and vehicle is much larger than I expected, this is the epoxy version.

    Is this normal and does the gap potentially shrink as the bar sits down in place?

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20220206_173716.jpg
Views:	325
Size:	76.9 KB
ID:	152450 Click image for larger version

Name:	20220206_173902.jpg
Views:	292
Size:	77.5 KB
ID:	152451

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    Originally posted by VinceSE2 View Post

    Great job guys!

    Please remember to use the extra plain nut as a locking nut in one of the ways shown below. The jammed nuts will now act as a bolt that allows you to use a wrench when inserting the stud and when holding the stud while tightening the top collar nut (in the gusset cup).

    Once that top collar nut nut is tightened the stud is fixed and there’s no need to hold the stud when later tightening the lower nut that holds the subframe.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Vince, since Ardalite 2014 isn't currently available I purchased 3M 08115 panel bonding adhesive, there is talk on the forums that maybe the 3M 07113 structural adhesive may be the better choice.

    I wondered if you had any thoughts on this, thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    A drop in the bucket...what did I get myself into!


    Click image for larger version

Name:	20220201_235126.jpg
Views:	325
Size:	206.1 KB
ID:	151463

    Leave a comment:


  • Tonggi
    replied
    Originally posted by VinceSE2 View Post

    Great job guys!

    Please remember to use the extra plain nut as a locking nut in one of the ways shown below. The jammed nuts will now act as a bolt that allows you to use a wrench when inserting the stud and when holding the stud while tightening the top collar nut (in the gusset cup).

    Once that top collar nut nut is tightened the stud is fixed and there’s no need to hold the stud when later tightening the lower nut that holds the subframe.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    THATS what those nuts are for!!!!!! duh!

    Edit: I did the complete install watching videos. I did not find the printout instructions you sent anywhere online.
    Last edited by Tonggi; 02-01-2022, 08:37 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • VinceSE2
    replied
    Originally posted by Tonggi View Post

    Dang I should of painted my silver too.

    tightening the front bolt is becoming a pain, def needs 2 people, the nuts are those locking nuts that are oval in size. so the bolt keeps rotating.
    Great job guys!

    Please remember to use the extra plain nut as a locking nut in one of the ways shown below. The jammed nuts will now act as a bolt that allows you to use a wrench when inserting the stud and when holding the stud while tightening the top collar nut (in the gusset cup).

    Once that top collar nut nut is tightened the stud is fixed and there’s no need to hold the stud when later tightening the lower nut that holds the subframe.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • Tonggi
    replied
    Originally posted by Sid_E46 View Post
    Silver POR15 helps hide the bar a bit more with some solid rust prevention as well.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	image_26189.jpg
Views:	411
Size:	138.6 KB
ID:	150568
    Dang I should of painted my silver too.

    tightening the front bolt is becoming a pain, def needs 2 people, the nuts are those locking nuts that are oval in size. so the bolt keeps rotating.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sid_E46
    replied
    Silver POR15 helps hide the bar a bit more with some solid rust prevention as well.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	image_26189.jpg
Views:	411
Size:	138.6 KB
ID:	150568

    Leave a comment:


  • Tonggi
    replied
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

    Nice work!
    I just purchased all hardware/tools last night and will begin disassembly maybe tonight, I sure hope it all goes as well as it did for you.
    starting a job is like ripping off a band aid. Man it took me forever to get started!!

    Now I have to clean up the underside with a wire brush to clear the surface rust and repaint then the reassembly begins. Got my subframe parts from the powder coater and they look sick. Gotta install the CMP bushings and slowly put back together since its so damn heavy

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    Originally posted by Tonggi View Post
    I feel accomplished, finally complete with this install. I did everything to the T.

    The biggest issue I ran into was my rivet gun not strong enough to break the big rivet on the side so I had to really muscle them off.
    Nice work!
    I just purchased all hardware/tools last night and will begin disassembly maybe tonight, I sure hope it all goes as well as it did for you.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tonggi
    replied
    I feel accomplished, finally complete with this install. I did everything to the T.

    The biggest issue I ran into was my rivet gun not strong enough to break the big rivet on the side so I had to really muscle them off.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Tonggi
    replied
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

    I plan to start this weekend, way behind where I wanted to be at this point in time.
    BTW I didnt need a 4" cut wheel. I just removed the cover on my angle grinder and it worked fine. But I did buy a lot of metal brush wheels to help with the paint.

    I think I bought more tools than I really needed to but luckily I didnt open them all!

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    Originally posted by Tonggi View Post



    how far are you on the process? I've prepped everything and measured, i'm about to start cutting the trunk area. I need to go buy a 4" cut off wheel from harbor freight though.
    I plan to start this weekend, way behind where I wanted to be at this point in time.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tonggi
    replied
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
    If anyone could suggest a rivet gun that they successfully used without the gun bending/breaking etc. I would appreciate it.

    I can't imagine breaking the rivet gun as the epoxy cures, that would not be a good situation. I see some that are listed as "heavy duty" for use with steel rivets and reviews have said they broke after usage with steel rivets.


    how far are you on the process? I've prepped everything and measured, i'm about to start cutting the trunk area. I need to go buy a 4" cut off wheel from harbor freight though.

    Leave a comment:


  • jet_dogg
    replied
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
    If anyone could suggest a rivet gun that they successfully used without the gun bending/breaking etc. I would appreciate it.

    I can't imagine breaking the rivet gun as the epoxy cures, that would not be a good situation. I see some that are listed as "heavy duty" for use with steel rivets and reviews have said they broke after usage with steel rivets.
    Marson hp2 or malco 2in1.

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Eh, I used a shitty (i.e. off of amazon) non-hydraulic rivet gun and it was totally fine. Great forearm workout, but never did I feel like it would break.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X