Is this normal and does the gap potentially shrink as the bar sits down in place?
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I have my Vincebar mocked up with the bolts holding it in place ready to scribe my cutting area but I cannot help but notice the gap between the bar and vehicle is much larger than I expected, this is the epoxy version.
Is this normal and does the gap potentially shrink as the bar sits down in place?
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Originally posted by VinceSE2 View Post
Great job guys!
Please remember to use the extra plain nut as a locking nut in one of the ways shown below. The jammed nuts will now act as a bolt that allows you to use a wrench when inserting the stud and when holding the stud while tightening the top collar nut (in the gusset cup).
Once that top collar nut nut is tightened the stud is fixed and there’s no need to hold the stud when later tightening the lower nut that holds the subframe.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I wondered if you had any thoughts on this, thanks!
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Originally posted by VinceSE2 View Post
Great job guys!
Please remember to use the extra plain nut as a locking nut in one of the ways shown below. The jammed nuts will now act as a bolt that allows you to use a wrench when inserting the stud and when holding the stud while tightening the top collar nut (in the gusset cup).
Once that top collar nut nut is tightened the stud is fixed and there’s no need to hold the stud when later tightening the lower nut that holds the subframe.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Edit: I did the complete install watching videos. I did not find the printout instructions you sent anywhere online.Last edited by Tonggi; 02-01-2022, 08:37 AM.
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Originally posted by Tonggi View Post
Dang I should of painted my silver too.
tightening the front bolt is becoming a pain, def needs 2 people, the nuts are those locking nuts that are oval in size. so the bolt keeps rotating.
Please remember to use the extra plain nut as a locking nut in one of the ways shown below. The jammed nuts will now act as a bolt that allows you to use a wrench when inserting the stud and when holding the stud while tightening the top collar nut (in the gusset cup).
Once that top collar nut nut is tightened the stud is fixed and there’s no need to hold the stud when later tightening the lower nut that holds the subframe.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Originally posted by Sid_E46 View PostSilver POR15 helps hide the bar a bit more with some solid rust prevention as well.
tightening the front bolt is becoming a pain, def needs 2 people, the nuts are those locking nuts that are oval in size. so the bolt keeps rotating.
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Silver POR15 helps hide the bar a bit more with some solid rust prevention as well.
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Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
Nice work!
I just purchased all hardware/tools last night and will begin disassembly maybe tonight, I sure hope it all goes as well as it did for you.
Now I have to clean up the underside with a wire brush to clear the surface rust and repaint then the reassembly begins. Got my subframe parts from the powder coater and they look sick. Gotta install the CMP bushings and slowly put back together since its so damn heavy
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Originally posted by Tonggi View PostI feel accomplished, finally complete with this install. I did everything to the T.
The biggest issue I ran into was my rivet gun not strong enough to break the big rivet on the side so I had to really muscle them off.
I just purchased all hardware/tools last night and will begin disassembly maybe tonight, I sure hope it all goes as well as it did for you.
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Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
I plan to start this weekend, way behind where I wanted to be at this point in time.
I think I bought more tools than I really needed to but luckily I didnt open them all!
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Originally posted by Tonggi View Post
how far are you on the process? I've prepped everything and measured, i'm about to start cutting the trunk area. I need to go buy a 4" cut off wheel from harbor freight though.
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Originally posted by Cubieman View PostIf anyone could suggest a rivet gun that they successfully used without the gun bending/breaking etc. I would appreciate it.
I can't imagine breaking the rivet gun as the epoxy cures, that would not be a good situation. I see some that are listed as "heavy duty" for use with steel rivets and reviews have said they broke after usage with steel rivets.
how far are you on the process? I've prepped everything and measured, i'm about to start cutting the trunk area. I need to go buy a 4" cut off wheel from harbor freight though.
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Originally posted by Cubieman View PostIf anyone could suggest a rivet gun that they successfully used without the gun bending/breaking etc. I would appreciate it.
I can't imagine breaking the rivet gun as the epoxy cures, that would not be a good situation. I see some that are listed as "heavy duty" for use with steel rivets and reviews have said they broke after usage with steel rivets.
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Eh, I used a shitty (i.e. off of amazon) non-hydraulic rivet gun and it was totally fine. Great forearm workout, but never did I feel like it would break.
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