heinzboehmer's 2002 Topaz 6MT Coupe

[heinzboehmer]

Well I completely forgot to account for the weights that come on street pads. Scanned the car with track pads and designed the duct around those. Fortunately the street pads are on the bench, so I just measured them and added to the CAD:


Definitely not going to work with those:



Design needed some tweaking anyway (thinner walls, reworked caliper reliefs), so V2 it is:











Since I'm 3D printing these, my approach is a very software-engineery approach. That is to say I'm tweaking a few things at a time, not validating anything besides a quick eyechrometer clearance check and printing. There's bound to be more iterations of this thing, so I'll just update with a pic of the different versions when I settle on a final one.

[heinzboehmer]

First duct prototype (a.k.a. the vacuum cleaner attachment) done:







I just followed the radius of the caliper, so there should be no clearance issues with the wheel:



Here it is placed into the merged scan:





The merged scan has the wheel at full lock to check clearances. Looks like it will be fine!

Now just need to find some time to print and test.

[bigjae46]

Same connector as for vanos solenoid pack

Thanks! Note to self…don’t plug the auto level harness into the VANOS…🤣

[maupineda]

Same connector as for vanos solenoid pack

[heinzboehmer]

Do you have a part # for that?

I didn't find the connector keyed for that specific location, so I just used the universal one: 61138383300

[bigjae46]

Front xenon leveling sensor connector was crumbling apart and being held on by zip ties, so I changed that out for a new one:

Do you have a part # for that?

[heinzboehmer]

Track day in a week, so prepped the car over the weekend. Swapped pads, swapped wheels/tires and addressed a couple small things as well.

Front xenon leveling sensor connector was crumbling apart and being held on by zip ties, so I changed that out for a new one:




Also swapped out the rest of the dust boots on the front calipers for GiroDisc ones. Not fun to do.

Here's the condition of the Brembo ones that came off:



Three are ripped, but I'm fairly certain that happened when I was removing them. Regardless, they were definitely cooked and very brittle.

All the pistons were still clean though, so not worried about the pressure seals:



Rear Brembo boots looked perfect, so I just left those alone.



I also finally reached out to my friend with the 3D scanner and we scanned the caliper/wheel/wheel well. Scans came out pretty awesome:






Was even able to create a decent merge of all the scans with the scanner software:



Looks like a mess in that pic, but promise the 3D version is totally usable.

Looking forward to finally designing the caliper evacuation duct. Current plan is to have it be two pieces: one that attaches and seals against the caliper and another that will hang out somewhere that sees high velocity air flow. First piece will just serve as an air guide out of the caliper and will connect to the second piece with a short section of brake duct hose. Second piece will be a venturi vacuum generator that will create the necessary low pressure to pull air from the caliper.

I've already started designing some different venturi designs to 3D print and test the effectiveness of. None of my designs are based on any hard science, really. Instead, I plan to use the guess and check method on this . Print a couple different designs, test with a leaf blower, tweak things and keep iterating until I'm happy (or get stuck and have to resort to some actual theory-backed design).

I do also intend to try and see if I can make the final version a one piece thing. Would be a much more elegant solution, but I'm not sure that I can make something that can stick out into fast moving laminar airflow and attach to the top of the caliper and not be gigantic. Plus, the two piece design with definitely simplify testing of the different venturi designs.

Anyway, excited to start messing around with this. I have access to a 3D printer at work, but this project is also making me want to just go out and buy one...

[heinzboehmer]

To get DME data onto the bus, you have to command the k-bus to send it. Same thing testo does, takes control of the k-bus logging.

On my list of things to do is to find/replace everything I can from k-bus to CAN bus, then disable k-bus logging. It’s low on the list though, as I’m pretty sure all of the data I want is not sent over CAN.

Aah that makes sense. Completely forgot that Gauge.S is primarily, well, a gauge

[Bry5on]

Hmm, this is surprising. The k bus is usually decently active, so not sure why those are causing issues. Any idea what the commands being sent out are? Steering wheel button things?

To get DME data onto the bus, you have to command the k-bus to send it. Same thing testo does, takes control of the k-bus logging.

On my list of things to do is to find/replace everything I can from k-bus to CAN bus, then disable k-bus logging. It’s low on the list though, as I’m pretty sure all of the data I want is not sent over CAN.

[heinzboehmer]

Super clean. Remember to always use twisted pairs and the shortest wire lengths you can for CAN, and as you know, try not to run CAN in parallel to power wires. This is mostly for people who might want to recreate this but run the wiring a little differently. If you’re pulling CAN from the steering angle sensor, this should be a non-issue since the run is so short. Also, don’t forget to run CAN to your OBD2 connector while you’re in there doing all of this. It’s so nice to be able to grab the data without doing any wiring if needed.

Yep! Have a junkyard harness for the steering angle sensor on the bench waiting for me to wire it up. Thanks for the reminder on the OBD plug CAN wiring, need to order the correct pins for that.

And one more note for future people. Gauge.S is actively sending commands to the k-bus, which means your code reader will not work while Gauge.S is active. Either kill power to Gauge.S or reboot it into WiFi mode (can be done with steering wheel controls). This one got me a couple weeks back as I couldn’t figure out why I couldn’t pull codes from my DME. -_-

Hmm, this is surprising. The k bus is usually decently active, so not sure why those are causing issues. Any idea what the commands being sent out are? Steering wheel button things?

[Bry5on]

Super clean. Remember to always use twisted pairs and the shortest wire lengths you can for CAN, and as you know, try not to run CAN in parallel to power wires. This is mostly for people who might want to recreate this but run the wiring a little differently. If you’re pulling CAN from the steering angle sensor, this should be a non-issue since the run is so short. Also, don’t forget to run CAN to your OBD2 connector while you’re in there doing all of this. It’s so nice to be able to grab the data without doing any wiring if needed.

And one more note for future people. Gauge.S is actively sending commands to the k-bus, which means your code reader will not work while Gauge.S is active. Either kill power to Gauge.S or reboot it into WiFi mode (can be done with steering wheel controls). This one got me a couple weeks back as I couldn’t figure out why I couldn’t pull codes from my DME. -_-

[heinzboehmer]

Going to be replicating Bry5on's wideband/logging setup and parts have started coming in. Last night I spent a few hours getting the wiring for the wideband in place.

Easiest way to wire it would be to just run the wire through some grommet in the drug bin area, but that would require wires to be floating around the engine bay and I wanted to avoid that. Since I pulled the precat O2 and EGT wiring out of the narrowband harness during my header install, there was just about enough room to feed it through there.

Getting the AEM wiring through required a decent amount of messing around, but it wasn't too too bad in the end. Depinned the O2 connector and used some coated stainless steel wire rope to guide it through:




Some time later it was in place:





Luckily, the wire length was just about perfect to reach a wideband O2 plugged into the headers. No need to be wiring up any extension harnesses or anything.

I did also fit that rubber wire grommet on the passenger's side of the valve cover (12517831185). Hopefully that keeps the top of the valve cover a bit cleaner. I spent some time trying a bunch of different wiring routes until I settled on something I liked. I wish the SS headers didn't make the narrowband O2 wiring so tight...

I then drilled some holes for zip ties in the transmission ECU compartment and mounted the wideband controller there:





In the future, I'll cut the loop of wire going between the wideband controller and the DME housing grommet in half and add some connectors to it. This is mainly so that getting the O2 harness out of the car isn't a huge pain.

And through to the interior:



And that's where I stopped. I have yet to install the O2 sensor onto the headers and have also yet to wire the controller in. My Gauge.S still hasn't come in, so probably won't continue with this until it does. Pretty happy with how stealthy this turned out though!

I did do a bit of thinking and I'm pretty sure I'm going to wire everything to the eject box power supply harness that I have in the center console. It's on a 10 A fuse so should be fine. Here's my messy current draw calculations for everything that's going to be connected to that supply harness:

• Front dash cam: 1 A peak
• Rear dash cam: 1 A peak
• Wireless charger: 1 A peak
• AEM Wideband Controller:
  • 3 A peak worst case
  • 1.5 A peak measured
• Gauge.s:
  • 500 mA peak worst case (estimated)
  • 150 mA peak measured (by Bryson)
• ---------------------------------------------------------
• Worst case peak current draw: 6.5 A
• Realistic peak current draw: <4.65 A

Think it should be safe! Will make everything super easy to wire as well. If I start popping fuses (I shouldn't), I'll run a separate fuse for the wideband/Gauge.S setup.

[heinzboehmer]

Did an oil change yesterday. Unfortunately nothing went wrong, so going to be a short post.

Oil drain plug repair still doing good!



Oil dipstick was breaking apart towards the bottom, so that got replaced:



Also, when I swapped the steering rack, I noticed that the bolt that goes from the PS pump bracket to the oil pan was missing. Judging by the amount of dirt inside the threads in the oil pan, this thing has been missing for a while and I just hadn't noticed it:



New one installed:

[heinzboehmer]

Oh! My mind immediately went to the rear tweeters for some reason. I'll look for witness marks next time the door card is off.

[Bry5on]

Sorry, I meant the woofers down below. They only contact once you snap the clips in so it’s basically impossible to tell by look, feel or hearing.