heinzboehmer's 2002 Topaz 6MT Coupe

[heinzboehmer]

The wooden dowels are cracking me up, Heinz. Your ingenuity knows no bounds! Love it! Such a simple solution to an otherwise complex problem - I mean, how would you clamp it otherwise?!?

Can't wait to hear your impressions after you let it cure for 3 hours / 12 hours / 48 hours/ 7 days and take the car for a spin.

Are you planning on having passengers in the back? Yank those seat belts if not 😁 The retractable shoulder belts are heavier than you might expect - possibly 1.5 - 2.0 lbs each, I'd suspect.

The dowels are definitely hilarious. First thing I thought of when I test fit them was this:



Pretty excited to drive it too, should get a chance to do it later today.

Retractable belts are gone . The bottom belts are still in only because that's what I attach the schroth quick fits too. I thought about cutting the middle belt out, but it's really not that heavy, so I just left it.

Is that the roll cage? Hahaha

Lol, they're structural dowels!

[bigjae46]

Is that the roll cage? Hahaha

[Casa de Mesa]

The wooden dowels are cracking me up, Heinz. Your ingenuity knows no bounds! Love it! Such a simple solution to an otherwise complex problem - I mean, how would you clamp it otherwise?!?

Can't wait to hear your impressions after you let it cure for 3 hours / 12 hours / 48 hours/ 7 days and take the car for a spin.

Are you planning on having passengers in the back? Yank those seat belts if not 😁 The retractable shoulder belts are heavier than you might expect - possibly 1.5 - 2.0 lbs each, I'd suspect.

[heinzboehmer]

Got a good chunk of work in yesterday.

Mechanically removed paint from all bonding surfaces:



Dry fitted the contraption I came up with to brace the thing in place while the adhesive cures:





Each individual piece is a wooden dowel with threaded inserts at each end. One end gets a threaded suction cup and the other gets one of those swiveling rubber furniture feet. The fact that both ends are threaded allows for fine adjustments once they're in place.

Dry fit was super important cause all of these needed to get installed in a short amount of time. I didn't want to be messing around with them, so I preadjusted everything and marked the locations of both ends.

The plastic coated stainless cable that's between the seats is there just in case one (or both) of the sunroof suction cups fail. Those have an extra bracket to allow articulation and are kinda heavy. I really didn't want them to come crashing down and damage my center console, so I added the cable as a precaution.

Next came final prep for the adhesive. I did a quick sand with 220 grit on both the chassis and CF brace (yes I wore a respirator when sanding the CF). On the chassis, I did an initial isopropyl wipe to get all the dust off, then an acetone wipe and then a final isopropyl wipe (new towels for each, of course). On the CF brace, I skipped the acetone wipe as I wasn't sure if it would mess with the resin, so it was just two consecutive isopropyl wipes.

With that done, it was time to mask around the bonding area and apply the adhesive. The pot life for the SikaForce 7888 is only 10 min, so this was probably the most stressful part of the whole install. No pictures of this cause I was rushing, but this was my process:

1. Apply adhesive to the entire surface and spread it out with a cut down paint brush. This is mostly to ensure that all exposed metal is covered for corrosion protection.
2. Apply more adhesive to everything but don't spread it out. Most of this will be squished out when the brace is put in place, but it's meant to help fill in any gaps between the brace and chassis.
3. Put all wooden dowels in place, starting with the top corners and working my way down the sides, then doing the rest.
4. Remove all masking tape from around the brace before the adhesive cures.
5. Squeeze out of the car through the tiny space between the buckets and b pillars while trying not to knock any of the dowels out of place.
6. Remove all masking tape in trunk.

I did not manage to get this done in 10 min. Took me 15, but the test pile of adhesive I left on the bench was still pretty liquid by the time I was done, so I don't think the extra 5 min will cause any problems.

Pulling off the masking tape in the trunk:



Masking tape pulled off in the interior and all dowels in:



Now just need to wait for an unspecified amount of time before the adhesive cures.

I say unspecified because the datasheet is incredibly vague about how long the cure time is. It mentions that "Full cure and final adhesion performance is achieved after 7 days", but then also says the specced lap shear strength is achieved after curing for "3 h at 105 °C". Later on it says "Adhesion as well as curing speed can be improved by heat up to max. 100 °C". To add to the confusion, the CSL roof repair procedure (same adhesive) says that "the endurance strength of the structural bond is achieved after 12 hours at 20 °C".

So 12 hours at room temperature or maybe 105C for 3 hours, but you're not allowed to heat it over 100C? Also potentially wait 7 days lol.

Anyway, I'm just going to leave it for 48 hours at room temp. I might run a heat gun over it for a bit today, but I didn't initially because I wasn't confident that I'd be able to keep the surface temp below 100C.

[heinzboehmer]

Getting close to bonding this thing in. Progress has been kinda slow, but I want to make sure prep is done correctly.

Started by making myself a cocoon of drop cloths. I knew I was going to be grinding a lot, so I just went ahead and masked everything:




Looking towards the front:



Kind of a pain to get in and out of, but I was in there for a few hours yesterday and it looks like no part of my interior got dirty (even though I ended up disgusting). Worth it. Grinding is done, but still some work to go. Next, I need to do a final pass with 220 grit and then prep the surfaces for bonding

Also, these paper drop cloths are awesome. I had only ever bought plastic ones in the past, but I definitely prefer these. They keep their shape better and are nowhere near as hot. Plus, I won't feel as bad when I go to throw them away.

[heinzboehmer]

Engine bay looks amazing

Thanks!


It's finally time to get the slon rear brace wall bulkhead thing installed.

I previously test fit it and found that it fits prety much perfectly even with the vince front cups in the car, only a small amount of material will need to be ground off.

But before doing that, I went in and removed all the remaining sound deadening and seam sealer that was still in the way:




Here's how the brace fits in now:





And some pretty terrible pictures of the fitment from behind:





It's still not 100% flush, as there's some small welds and bumps in the panels that I need to grind down, but it's pretty close. Next steps are grinding (paint, vince cups and panel imperfections), cleaning and then bonding this thing in. Think I'll be able to find time to do all that in the next couple days.

[SeñorEnglish]

Engine bay looks amazing

[heinzboehmer]

Caught the car in some good lighting a couple days ago:



Also, I weighed my car this past weekend with Bry5on's help. All figures are with a 1/4 tank of gas indicated on the gauge (OBC hidden menu thing said there were 16.7 L in the tank). Add 20-25 lbs to the figures below to get to the typical half tank weight.

Just the car:




With me in the car:




Pretty happy with the weight, especially cause my car still has a sunroof. Need to do a bit of corner balancing, though. Will calculate the thickness for the spring pad I need for the rear and swap that out.

I was planning on going to the gas station and filling the tank up to double check how much gas was in it, but I completely forgot. Guess I'll have to just trust the 16.7 L figure.

[heinzboehmer]

Oh! I forgot to mention.

I disabled m track mode before this past track day because I found it annoying that I had to hold the button down to get traction to go fully off. I do not miss it at all.

If I ever get a ZCP MK60 module, I'll reenable m track mode, as that module allows for one-click traction control off with the center console button. For now, m track mode is staying disabled.

[heinzboehmer]

No PPF! Paint on the front end is actually kinda shitty. This is a CO car that was driven year round, so the entire front is pretty rock chipped (CO uses a lot of gravel during the winter). Paint looks fine from afar, but it's just bad enough that I don't care about putting it on track, which is awesome.

I really enjoy the dual purpose car, with the exception of packing tires into it. Without the tires, I can pack for the track in 5-10 min, which is why I'm never packing tires again. Track prep (pads, brake ducts, pre track inspection, etc.) does take and hour or two, so it probably is close to the amount of time needed to get your track car on a trailer.

[bigjae46]

Awesome! Glad the car did well. That engine bay is nice looking! Do you have PPF? I'd have a hard time putting such a nice looking car on track.

I keep going back and forth between my caged track car and a dual purpose car. I love the idea of not having to load/unload the car, drag the trailer, put the trailer in storage, and being able to drive the car on the street to test things out with no fear of the cops. Then I remember having to load all this crap in the car so I can be sure to get home.

First world problems.

[heinzboehmer]

Oh also, washed the car after a long time without being washed (two track days ago). Man, I can't get over how good this engine bay looks:

[heinzboehmer]

After the whole thing with the tires, I realized I don't really need the rear pass through, which was the biggest thing keeping e from installing my slon rear bulkhead brace. So I test fitted it again.

Removed the sound deadening that interferes with the adhesion surface:



Here's how it fits in relation to the front vince cups:



It seems like it just barely interferes, which is great! I'll strip everything else back and if it still interferes, I'll grind back a little bit off the top of the front cups.

Wating on the adhesive to arrive now before installing. Had some trouble getting it, so I have a feeling it's going to take a while.

With this in mind, I covered the slit I made in a layer of POR15. I'll grind this back before bonding the brace in place:



After that, I had to redo the rear dashcam (twice). I originally used a micro USB cable with just the GND and power wires, but it turned out that the parking mode wasn't activated correctly this way (in retrospect, this is very obvious). I then spliced a micro USB cable that also had an ID wire into the output of the one parking mode hardware module I had installed in the car.

I assumed the ID wire was just used as a signal for ignition on/ignition off, buuut turns out there's actual communication happening across it. Or at least it seems like it because the cameras would freak out when plugged in.

Final iteration involved two parking mode hardware modules and a couple connectors to make things easier to service:



(I made the E82's harness at the same time. M3 on the left E82 on the right)


Feeding it through the headliner was super easy. Just taped it to the existing harness and pulled it through:




Parking mode works as expected now!

[heinzboehmer]

Quick update on last week's Thunderhill track day.

Was an extra long day, so I packed both my mostly-used sets of track pads, my street pads and my street tires, since I was expecting to wear through both sets of track pads and the track tires.

Managed to get the street tires into the car by putting in three through the rear seat opening and the last one in between the front seats:



Honestly that sucked, not doing that again. I've been driving to and from the track on track tires and this experience made it very clear that I should keep doing that.

Swapping pads twice in the ~100F heat was also not super fun, but I'm very glad all my track pads for stock calipers are dead, since this will force me to finally get the 996 calipers installed.

I did accidentally touch one of the front rotors right after coming off the track (even though it was veery obvious that things were HOT). This is what the glove looks like now:



Extremely glad I was wearing the gloves. That would have been a really nasty burn.

But anyway, the track day was a ton of fun. First time in the open passing group and I realized it's not as scary as it seems. Was hilarious having actually fast cars blow past me.

I did have to sneak in some cool down laps every once in a while because the coolant temps started creeping towards the second dot. I was surprised by this because I've never had any coolant temp issues on track, but I realized the cause of this towards the end of the day. My AC panel will sometimes "reboot" and when it does, it goes back to some previous setting (seems like it chooses whatever was used the most recently). This means that it would turn the compressor back on on track and so the cooling system would have trouble doing its job. I think I might need to get a new AC panel to resolve this, but not entirely sure of the actual cause.

Also, when I got back home, I removed the passenger's seat, so that I could get the tires out of the back. With the seat out, I took the opportunity to loosen all the BK bracket bolts to try and get the rails to free up a bit. Then I did the same on the driver's side. They improved somewhat, but the rails still feel sticky. Biggest positive is that now the driver's seat bottoms out on the rails instead of hitting the transmission tunnel when moving it forward. Not entirely sure why, but I'm all for it. Makes getting into the back a lot easier.

Anyway, here's a short dump of track pics, including one where I was being chased down by 718 GT4 Clubsport MR that was stupid fast (dude was running 1:4x, IIRC) an a couple pics where I was being chased down by my friend in an S2K:

[heinzboehmer]

Welcome to my life as an amateur engjne rebuilder 🤣.

Excited to see the next iteration of the wrap! I bought real Tessa tape and it didn’t seem to work that well in the engine bay for me. Maybe the wrong application of that tape? I went back to my super 88.

Ha, no I was mostly kidding. I'm not rerewrapping what I already rewrapped. I'll just do the other side in electrical tape as well.

There's two types of tesa tapes, fleece and cloth. The cloth one is rated for higher temps. I've used it in the engine bay and it seems to be holding up well. Haven't tried the fleece one in the engine bay though