heinzboehmer's 2002 Topaz 6MT Coupe

[D-O]

I was thinking something like this combo would work, but I need to take a better look to see if 22mm OD is too big.

https://www.probolt-usa.com/titanium-countersunk-washer-m6-22mm-od/

https://www.probolt-usa.com/titanium-countersunk-bolt-m6x1-00mmx20mm/

Titanium for the weight saving for my vert...

heinzboehmer apologies for the journal hi-jack

I was thinking something similar but with a rubber or plastic washer, but never mind that. Titanium FTW.

[Ramage]

I was thinking something like this combo would work, but I need to take a better look to see if 22mm OD is too big.

https://www.probolt-usa.com/titanium-countersunk-washer-m6-22mm-od/

https://www.probolt-usa.com/titanium-countersunk-bolt-m6x1-00mmx20mm/

Titanium for the weight saving for my vert...

heinzboehmer apologies for the journal hi-jack

[Ramage]

I’ve seen at least three different versions of those tabs all produced by Karbonius. There’s a ‘linear’ tab, and large diameter and a small diameter. Heinz and I have the small diameter.

We’re all nuts here, but the details matter!

Thanks!

The tabs on mine look like they are plastic, but I guess they could be anodized aluminum.


It also came with this key chain which appears to be made on the same 3D printer that the battery cable holder attached the airbox was made on.

[karter16]

Oh thread is different on the BMW bolts? That's no fun.

Yup the OE ones are M5 and the Karb uses M6. I found out the hard way 🙃

[heinzboehmer]

The factory BMW bolts, which are a different thread size, have a captive washer, so not as fiddly to install/uninstall.

Oh thread is different on the BMW bolts? That's no fun.

[Slideways]

I'm still using the Karbonius hardware and noticed the screws and washers you're using. I'm wondering if Karbonius updated their design over time, as the pegs holding the non-filtered side of my airbox seem different. I'll snap some photos to confirm and share them to tie up loose ends.

I'm considering switching to countersunk washers and screws for a sleeker look and better load distribution on the tabs. Do you happen to remember the outer diameter of the washers you're using?

Yep, I can confirm I see how ridiculous my last question is after reading it out loud

You can only pick one thing to remember:

A: OD of 4 washers used on my car a few years ago.
B: Cherished childhood memory.

Mad respect for all the stuff you have done, these journals are both awesome and fear inducing (mostly for my wallet).

Karbonius has been using the hex style hardware since day one. Only difference now is that they are matte black rather than silver. Since they do not have a washer, the head of the fastener will dig into the clear coat as you tighten it and this can damage the clear coat over time.

With a OE style torx bolt and washer combo, the washer sits flat against the clear coat and it prevents the surface from being damaged by the bolt being clamped down. Installation is a little fiddly since you have to center the washer for aesthetic reasons and you have to be careful during removal to not drop the washers into the abyss. The factory BMW bolts, which are a different thread size, have a captive washer, so not as fiddly to install/uninstall.

[heinzboehmer]

I'm still using the Karbonius hardware and noticed the screws and washers you're using. I'm wondering if Karbonius updated their design over time, as the pegs holding the non-filtered side of my airbox seem different. I'll snap some photos to confirm and share them to tie up loose ends.

I'm considering switching to countersunk washers and screws for a sleeker look and better load distribution on the tabs. Do you happen to remember the outer diameter of the washers you're using?

Yep, I can confirm I see how ridiculous my last question is after reading it out loud

You can only pick one thing to remember:

A: OD of 4 washers used on my car a few years ago.
B: Cherished childhood memory.

Mad respect for all the stuff you have done, these journals are both awesome and fear inducing (mostly for my wallet).

Thanks!

OD of the washers is 12-15ish mm. They're from Slideways, maybe he can chime in.

You can also get the CSL hardware: 07119905016.

We’re all nuts here, but the details matter!

+1000

Also, I wasn't aware that there were multiple styles of pegs. I've only ever seen the small diameter ones. Good to know!

[Bry5on]

I'm still using the Karbonius hardware and noticed the screws and washers you're using. I'm wondering if Karbonius updated their design over time, as the pegs holding the non-filtered side of my airbox seem different. I'll snap some photos to confirm and share them to tie up loose ends.

I'm considering switching to countersunk washers and screws for a sleeker look and better load distribution on the tabs. Do you happen to remember the outer diameter of the washers you're using?

Yep, I can confirm I see how ridiculous that last question is after reading it out loud

You can only pick one thing to remember:

A: OD of 4 washers used on my car a few years ago.
B: Cherished childhood memory.

Mad respect for all the stuff you have done, these journals are both awesome and fear inducing (mostly for my wallet).

I’ve seen at least three different versions of those tabs all produced by Karbonius. There’s a ‘linear’ tab, and large diameter and a small diameter. Heinz and I have the small diameter.

We’re all nuts here, but the details matter!

[Ramage]

Are you using the hardware Karbonius sends out with the airbox? The epoxy around the screw holes on mine was also starting to get damaged with the original hardware, but I switched over to bolts with a washer underneath (like on a real CSL) and the issue has gone away.

I'm still using the Karbonius hardware and noticed the screws and washers you're using. I'm wondering if Karbonius updated their design over time, as the pegs holding the non-filtered side of my airbox seem different. I'll snap some photos to confirm and share them to tie up loose ends.

I'm considering switching to countersunk washers and screws for a sleeker look and better load distribution on the tabs. Do you happen to remember the outer diameter of the washers you're using?

Yep, I can confirm I see how ridiculous my last question is after reading it out loud

You can only pick one thing to remember:

A: OD of 4 washers used on my car a few years ago.
B: Cherished childhood memory.

Mad respect for all the stuff you have done, these journals are both awesome and fear inducing (mostly for my wallet).

[heinzboehmer]

This is not insane at all, it is these little details that my ADHD fixates on and must be fixed so I can find something else to fixate on.

The 10mm deep socket over the boots is a great idea, I ended up using solid core wire on my IAT because for the life of me I could not get 2 stupid wires inside of (12517508831) to make the 90° turn in (12521732635). I am going to give this a shot as solid core wire is not a great idea.

Cheers!

Oh I forgot to mention, I ended up cutting the last little bit of the boot off as it was too small to stretch over the socket. You might be able to get away with leaving it if you use the BMW conduit and a much smaller socket. The OD of the conduit I had laying around is larger than the BMW stuff, so had to resort to chopping.

This looks like a solid fix.

I’ve added more foam to the non-filter section, which has stopped the rattle. However, I’m concerned it will return since the engine’s heat tends to degrade the foam pretty quickly. I think the rattling has also somewhat damaged the clear gel on the tabs the screws for the unfiltered section pass through as I can clearly see the gel is fogging around the screws.

I need to reach out to Karbonius as my airbox was new in May of this year and I am kind of bummed that it is not holding up.

I tried doubling up on the foam before these bushings and it didn't last long. So far the bushings have been great.

Are you using the hardware Karbonius sends out with the airbox? The epoxy around the screw holes on mine was also starting to get damaged with the original hardware, but I switched over to bolts with a washer underneath (like on a real CSL) and the issue has gone away.

[Ramage]

Heard my airbox start rattling again so went and checked on it. Turns out the bushings I printed rode up on the posts so much that they were no longer doing their job:



This is what they looked like (well, two of them, the third is lost forever in the engine bay abyss):




They've certainly taken some damage! This might be one of those "replace at every oil change" things. Oh well, they require 0.5 g of material to print and can be installed in 5 min, so not super worried about the short replacement interval.

To combat the riding up issue I created a V2. Part is the same as before, but with a base, which should keep them in place:



I made the base the same thickness as the grey "weatherstripping" on the unfiltered section and notched that out for clearance:



Everything installed:




Let's see how long these last!

This looks like a solid fix.

I’ve added more foam to the non-filter section, which has stopped the rattle. However, I’m concerned it will return since the engine’s heat tends to degrade the foam pretty quickly. I think the rattling has also somewhat damaged the clear gel on the tabs the screws for the unfiltered section pass through as I can clearly see the gel is fogging around the screws.

I need to reach out to Karbonius as my airbox was new in May of this year and I am kind of bummed that it is not holding up.

[Ramage]

I know this is insane, but I'm gonna order some genuine crimp terminals (12521427612) with my next FCP order and swap back to the old connector. Will do that off camera cause this work is getting repetitive and boring.

This is not insane at all, it is these little details that my ADHD fixates on and must be fixed so I can find something else to fixate on.

The 10mm deep socket over the boots is a great idea, I ended up using solid core wire on my IAT because for the life of me I could not get 2 stupid wires inside of (12517508831) to make the 90° turn in (12521732635). I am going to give this a shot as solid core wire is not a great idea.

Cheers!

[heinzboehmer]

Re(re)wired the MAP and IAT sensor connectors:



To get the boots on, I lubricated a deep 10 mm socket with some krytox and slipped the boots over that first. Worked like a charm:




Some crimping later and done:




Very happy with the quality of this new MAP connector. Definitely nicer than what was on there before.

Unfortunately, not at all happy with the quality of the ECS kit I ordered for the IAT connector. I thought it was composed of genuine parts, but that is most definitely not the case. Should have looked more closely.

Had BMW parts on there before and quality was way better. To boot, the ECS crimp terminals are bigger than the BMW ones, so I wasn't able to reuse the old stuff.

I know this is insane, but I'm gonna order some genuine crimp terminals (12521427612) with my next FCP order and swap back to the old connector. Will do that off camera cause this work is getting repetitive and boring.

[Bry5on]

Hell yeah. I’d also add 5Nm or something to account for that cut thread running torque issue above if those are the same fasteners, you know, just to be pedantic. You’ll be fine either way really.

[heinzboehmer]

Tool arrived for the last little detail on the mechanical side of the braces:



BMW spec for the nuts is 41 Nm, so a regular box wrench is more than adequate for doing them up, but using a torque wrench makes my brain happy.

Adapter measures 51 mm from center of box end to center of drive end and torque wrench measures 330 mm from center of drive end to middle of handle. Quick bit of math tells me torque wrench needs to be set to 35.5 Nm (26 lb ft) to achieve 41 Nm at the fastener with the adapter completely parallel to the torque wrench.

Looks like I got my tool clearance measurements right cause I can torque both nuts no problem



Side note: this is probably the first time I've ever found a use for the center position on the torque wrench ratchet mechanism. This position doesn't let the wrench ratchet, so it ensures the adapter stays parallel. Pretty nice.

Also, it's been getting warmer and audio system is back to overheating and shutting off when parked in the sun

There's a heatsink inside the head unit with thermal paste that looked just as bad as the stuff in the HK amp, so I serviced it:





(yeah I suck at applying thermal paste, leave me alone)

The issue seems to only happen when the car is parked in direct sun, so it sounds to me like the HK amp is a more likely culprit. I honestly doubt this is going to fix it, but it was super quick, so worth a shot. I might be looking into replacing that HK amp soon though.

Also, disassembling the head unit reminded me of this awesome gift that the previous owner forgot in there when he sold the car to me:



It's mostly 70s and 80s stuff, it's great. This is full track list, just for fun:

1. You Should Be Dancing - Bee Gees
2. Overkill - Men At Work
3. Refugee - Tom Petty & The Heartbreakers
4. I Don't Want To Live Without You - Foreigner
5. No. 1 - Chaz Jankel
6. Everything She Wants - Wham
7. Promises, Promises - Naked Eyes
8. Cold As Ice - Foreigner
9. This Must Be the Place (Naive Melody) - Talking Heads
10. Gypsy - Fleetwood Mac
11. Tiny Dancer - Elton John
12. Careless Whisper - George Michael
13. I Guess That's Why They Call It the Blues - Elton John
14. Sister Christian - Night Ranger
15. Ai No Corrida - Chas Jankel

CD is back in the head unit, waiting to be rediscovered sometime in the future