heinzboehmer's 2002 Topaz 6MT Coupe

[heinzboehmer]

Oh! My mind immediately went to the rear tweeters for some reason. I'll look for witness marks next time the door card is off.

[Bry5on]

Sorry, I meant the woofers down below. They only contact once you snap the clips in so it’s basically impossible to tell by look, feel or hearing.

[heinzboehmer]

I'll keep that in mind! I didn't feel any contact when installing, but maybe I just didn't notice...

Hoping that shaving that lip down gives them enough clearance.

[Bry5on]

The magnets in my bavsound speakers contact the metal door itself so I put some tesa tape in between that location too. Next time your door panel is off, it’d be worth checking for signs of contact. Mine’s obviously a sedan door so the coupe may be better.

[heinzboehmer]

Got a bunch of stuff in the mail today and got straight to work.

First the wiper stalk:



Probed everything and turns out that yes, the E39 wiper stalk is entirely plug and play with the ZCP MK60. Just need to run the M track mode signal wire to pin 10 and done.

I fed that wire through the stock wiring locations to try and keep it as out of the way as possible:





And installed:



Next up some bavsound speakers:



Install was super straight forward. I only have a couple things to highlight.

None of the speakers have clips for the connectors to clip in to, so I wrapped all the connectors in tesa tape to try and keep rattles away:



I also replaced all the clips in all four door cards with brand new ones. Felt pretty great to have everything clip in like it's supposed to:



Also, I didn't love how the rear tweeters sat in the stock plastic carrier, so I removed the lip to get the mating surface as flat as possible for the adhesive. For some reason, I was too lazy to break out the dremel, so instead I used some needle nose pliers to rip away the lip and then a razor blade to clean everything up. Honestly looks kinda terrible, but it works great!



I also added a ton of adhesive to the space between the speaker and the carrier. Did this to make sure it was airtight and to try and keep the speakers attached to the carrier for as long as possible. Hopefully this adhesive lasts for a while.



And finally, I swapped out the smoked depo side markers for some fresh clear ones:

[heinzboehmer]

Hmm, TIS says that both the E39 stalk button and the M track mode button are switching to ground, so I might get lucky and not need to mess with anything. I'll probe my ZCP steering wheel trim and E39 stalk just in case.

E39:


E46:

[heinzboehmer]

Tackled a small but much harder than expected job the other day: steering column bushings. Not a lot of pictures because I spent most of my time contorted under the dash struggling with the install.

Here's old and new:


(apologies for the terrible photoshop, I grabbed the wrong old bolt for the original pic...)

TIS says to "Install nut with Loctite", but doesn't specify the strength. The old bolt had what looked like red threadlocker, so I used that. Also lubed the sides of the bushings (where they slide against the fixed part of the column) just like the stock ones were. Whatever lube BMW used at the factory looked suspiciously similar to the Krytox I used. Probably some PTFE based lube as well.

Getting the bolt through the new bushings was incredibly hard. Required a prybar and a lot of messing around with things. I think I spent like 20 min trying to get the bolt perfectly aligned with the second bushing before it finally went in. In hindsight, lubing the shoulder of the bolt would have likely made my life much easier, but I realized this halfway through the install and did not want to pull things apart and restart.

Here are the new ones in place:



Bryson told me this, so I was kind of expecting it, but I was still surprised by how much firmer the new bushing design makes the column feel. Telescoping it in and out now requires a ton of force.

Driving impressions are all positive. To be honest, I didn't drive the car a lot with the ZCP rack and old bushings, but I can say that the rack and bushing swap has made the steering feel much, much better. Pretty happy with this!

Also, when I did the MK60 swap, I added a wire for M track mode, just in case I ever stumbled upon a ZCP MK60. Now that that's in the car, I'll be wiring it to the E39 wiper stalk button, so I fished the wire out and set it in a more accessible spot:



E39 stalk is arriving soon, so that'll be going in as well. If anyone reading this has wired that stalk up to a ZCP MK60, please let me know if it just wires right up or if I need to do some electronic trickery to get it working. Otherwise, I foresee some quality time with the multimeter in my future.

[heinzboehmer]

Thanks for the feedback!

I'm trying to figure out the best approach for locating, cleaning up, and plugging leaks. Pulling the front clip makes cleaning possible, but then I won't be able to run the engine. Things are pretty tight in there in full trim.

You're likely gonna be better off cleaning everything up first and then reassembling and running the engine. Unless the leak is huge, you probably won't be able to see it in action. But if everything is clean, you'll be able to follow any new oil traces up to their source.

[bavarian3]

Thanks, it's been a lot of work!

To answer your questions:

1. I don't use anything fancy. Waterless car wash (I use the AMMO NYC stuff) for making things look pretty, diluted dish soap in a spray bottle for dirtier areas and diluted simple green in a spray bottle for super grimy stuff. Just make sure to use the aluminum safe simple green if you're going that route.
2. Pulling the front clip is great if the front of your engine is super dirty and you want to clean everything up. If you're already draining coolant, then it's not a ton more work. No need to discharge the AC, the flexible lines going to the condenser allow you to just swing it out of the way.
3. I think it was definitely worth the effort on this car because of all the maintenance/work that had gone into it prior to the swap and because I don't really plan to get rid of the car. However, I'm not sure that's true for everyone. The swap is extremely time consuming/expensive, adds zero value to the car and effectively makes no difference in regular day to day driving (unless you're driving like a lunatic). I do think that the MK60 is a much better system than the MK20, and you can make a case that the better ABS makes the car safer on the street and that the better traction/stability make the car safer in the wet/snow. However, for me, the benefits of this upgrade are almost exclusively limited to the track. If this car was 100% a street car, I likely would not have bothered with this.

Thanks for the feedback!

I'm trying to figure out the best approach for locating, cleaning up, and plugging leaks. Pulling the front clip makes cleaning possible, but then I won't be able to run the engine. Things are pretty tight in there in full trim.

[heinzboehmer]

Managed to get through all 32 pages. You're on another level. Amazing work bringing this car to this state.

BTW been there done that living in the city with a project car, your experience with the garage size and nails in tires gave me anxiety just reading about it.

I'll ask some questions:
-with regards to washing the engine bay, anything to look out for with running water damaging components? what cleaners did you use?
-i have some oil leaks i need to locate, along with rod bearings, coolant system and front suspension overhaul. would you recommend pulling the front clip as you did? worth the effort? annoying part is having to pay someone to discharge-recharge the AC.
-now that you have the mk60 for a while, still stand by it not being worth the effort?

Thanks, it's been a lot of work!

To answer your questions:

1. I don't use anything fancy. Waterless car wash (I use the AMMO NYC stuff) for making things look pretty, diluted dish soap in a spray bottle for dirtier areas and diluted simple green in a spray bottle for super grimy stuff. Just make sure to use the aluminum safe simple green if you're going that route.
2. Pulling the front clip is great if the front of your engine is super dirty and you want to clean everything up. If you're already draining coolant, then it's not a ton more work. No need to discharge the AC, the flexible lines going to the condenser allow you to just swing it out of the way.
3. I think it was definitely worth the effort on this car because of all the maintenance/work that had gone into it prior to the swap and because I don't really plan to get rid of the car. However, I'm not sure that's true for everyone. The swap is extremely time consuming/expensive, adds zero value to the car and effectively makes no difference in regular day to day driving (unless you're driving like a lunatic). I do think that the MK60 is a much better system than the MK20, and you can make a case that the better ABS makes the car safer on the street and that the better traction/stability make the car safer in the wet/snow. However, for me, the benefits of this upgrade are almost exclusively limited to the track. If this car was 100% a street car, I likely would not have bothered with this.

[bavarian3]

Managed to get through all 32 pages. You're on another level. Amazing work bringing this car to this state.

BTW been there done that living in the city with a project car, your experience with the garage size and nails in tires gave me anxiety just reading about it.

I'll ask some questions:
-with regards to washing the engine bay, anything to look out for with running water damaging components? what cleaners did you use?
-i have some oil leaks i need to locate, along with rod bearings, coolant system and front suspension overhaul. would you recommend pulling the front clip as you did? worth the effort? annoying part is having to pay someone to discharge-recharge the AC.
-now that you have the mk60 for a while, still stand by it not being worth the effort?

[0-60motorsports]

Would love to get one of those zcp/csl dsc units


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[inlinesix123]

You definitely should! You can get a long thin screwdriver in between the thermostat housing and the head to check if the bolt has backed out and is loose. Finicky, but better than draining the coolant!

Thanks a bunch, i just replaced my thermostat 50 miles ago because i couldn't get my emissions state ready, so i'm slightly upset that i didn't find this thread earlier lol.
I do not want to drain my coolant again

[heinzboehmer]

Holy moly, i think this might be my issue, i have a brand new beissan and i have a "rattle" around 3k rpm and also a small oil leak that doesnt seem to track from any of the usual suspects. For the longest time i thought my rattle might be an exhaust bolt being loose somewhere or possibly how my new headers sound.
I will check this out soon.

You definitely should! You can get a long thin screwdriver in between the thermostat housing and the head to check if the bolt has backed out and is loose. Finicky, but better than draining the coolant!

[inlinesix123]

"The car developed a small oil leak and I traced it back to the timing chain guide bolt that's located behind the thermostat. Thought it would be as simple as cleaning the threads, applying some threadlocker, and torquing to spec. Turns out the bolt had snapped, which made the timing chain rattle around inside the engine and in turn shear the lower bolt as well. Quickly learned that the rattle I heard around 3k rpm was not the VANOS, like I originally thought."
Holy moly, i think this might be my issue, i have a brand new beissan and i have a "rattle" around 3k rpm and also a small oil leak that doesnt seem to track from any of the usual suspects. For the longest time i thought my rattle might be an exhaust bolt being loose somewhere or possibly how my new headers sound.
I will check this out soon.