Tyler's 04 slicktop 6spd Silvergrey MCS/Brembo/CSL/Karbonius/Nogaros/Supersprint

[Tbonem3]

Yes, at least in that post, there are no pics of any of the routing from engine to transmission as that was done back in 2014. I want to say I had some more pics/info at the time back on m3forum, but when I had to recreate this thread, I don't think I put the info in. I'll check to see if I have any pics from back then. I remember a thread on this forum with more info though, if you want to try searching.

[bavarian3]

Before installing the sect 1, I routed the O2 plugs through a hole in the heatshield (made when I had euro cats) and run along the tunnel, driver side



Hello



Once the pipes are installed, I pulled the O2 plus as far forward as possible, to meet the harnesses that need to be run behind the airbox and down tranny/clutch line area (already done in 2014). They'll reach a bit past the tranny brace. It's actually a good area for them to meet the harnesses as there are already some clips for the wiring of the tranny sensors.



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I think this is the part I'm not understanding. Are you just showing the process of where the male ends of the harnesses got routed through ?

[Tbonem3]

Doubtful, but never say never. Don't see it happening any time soon.

[M3ZCPNYC]

Would this car ever be for sale?

[kaiv]

Hmm, Vince has you keep the threads for his products. You drill up into the trunk with a drill bit that's the same size as the minor diameter of the subframe bolts (~10mm for M12x1.5) and then tap the rest of the insert so you can run the longer studs through. (...)

Confirming this 👍

[karter16]

Hmm, Vince has you keep the threads for his products. You drill up into the trunk with a drill bit that's the same size as the minor diameter of the subframe bolts (~10mm for M12x1.5) and then tap the rest of the insert so you can run the longer studs through. I'm not familiar with the install process for that brace, but I would keep the threads if possible.

Edit:

Vince posted his cross section sketches here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...852#post128852
Good visualization for what I described above.

Yeah I'd much prefer the solution that you describe. Not keen to make a no-going-back change like drilling the thread out. Will do some more investigation - as you suggest drilling smaller and tapping seems preferable to me.


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[karter16]

From memory, you drill it all out. You don't need the threads, you're sandwiching the layers of sheet metal.

Ah bummer - that's something I'm not keen to do….

Thanks very much for answering me so quick!

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[heinzboehmer]

From memory, you drill it all out. You don't need the threads, you're sandwiching the layers of sheet metal.

Hmm, Vince has you keep the threads for his products. You drill up into the trunk with a drill bit that's the same size as the minor diameter of the subframe bolts (~10mm for M12x1.5) and then tap the rest of the insert so you can run the longer studs through. I'm not familiar with the install process for that brace, but I would keep the threads if possible.

Edit:

Vince posted his cross section sketches here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...852#post128852
Good visualization for what I described above.

[Tbonem3]

From memory, you drill it all out. You don't need the threads, you're sandwiching the layers of sheet metal.

[karter16]

[SIZE=14px]Part 2 of 3 in my big muffler/chassis project...

Now, we can drill down with 1/2" bit. Had to borrow my dad's big boy drill for this. Harbor freight $20 drill-master was smokin'

Question on this if you can remember so far back - to clarify where you're drilling down the with half inch bit it's only until you reach the top of the threaded section right? You're not drilling out the threaded section? I presume that the bolt goes up through the subframe and bolts it to the threaded section in the RACP, and then sticks out the top for the x brace to also bolt to?


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[Tbonem3]

Is that on the roadmap?

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Once the kids are a bit older, ya. Nothing else to do with the car at this point and it's too high mileage to be thought of as any sort of investment or collector. I miss my moto days, but my body can only handle a car now

[mrgizmo04]

If I started tracking the car, I'd move to re71rs.

Is that on the roadmap?

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[Tbonem3]

That's exactly why I got them! Light and sticky for high intensity, but short runs. If I started tracking the car, I'd move to re71rs.

[mrgizmo04]

A052s are loved by autox and time attack guys because they stick so well when cold. Some guys who have run these next to Hoosiers slicks equate the grip level, so "200tw" is whatever.

I'm all for rotational inertia, their carcass is light, the problem with it is that they can't tolerate heat. Lap 2 on track they would start overheating and sliding, so naturally you drop pressure, however combined with a super soft sidewall (which I don't like as steering feel is degraded) they roll over. So you have to change your setup to up camber quite a bit to make these semi happy. I experienced insane levels of grip with them, but for my use case I need longevity. If you are going to be bombing down canyons, just monitor how they feel as they heat up and slide.

The other downside of super stickys, as you noted, is rocks in wheel wells. Well, they turn into rocks on your doors/fenders/quarters/bumpers in turns as you load up the outsides of the tires and fling those rocks around while you turn the steering wheel to blast all your paint.

Lack of rim lip protection is also problematic when taking wheels off a lot and dumping on the ground.

So to summarize my experience, while I was impressed with what they can do in terms of grip for a short stint, they were not for me or a lot of other guys running "normal" sessions vs single lap shootouts.

The new RE71RS seem to be really good, I've enjoyed them for a few sessions now.



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[usdmej]

for a 255 tire on a 9.5" wheel, that's not even close to looking stretched! the 200tw tire game is ridiculous these days