Thank you!
I can't find much fault with the Turner plates
- big footprint to spread load
- caster and camber adjustment
- replaceable bushings ($60)
- reduction in stack height for more travel, esp if you omit the included spacer.
Perhaps the rubber bushing in the GC plates makes the experience a little more supple, I'm not sure. The poly is not noticeably bad in the plates like it is when used for FCAB or motor mount etc.
The Turner plates are some of the most expensive, GC is a bit cheaper. Turner is no longer turner anyway, it's ECS chinese made stuff. Perhaps it's better to buy US made GC (I think it's all made in-house in CA)
For rear spring, yes I love the trick of putting a liner spring in place of the stock spring, retaining the big and thick stock rubber pads. But it takes a lot of effort to settle on the ride height you want. You need to choose the right spring height, then shim it appropriately till you end up where you want to be. For the 500lb range, that seems to be a 7" spring, 550-600lb a 6.5" spring (hard to find) and 650-7xx a 6" but it's trial and error. As far as inner diameter, I didn't worry about the spring's ID being small enough to capture the nipple of the spring pad well, I wanted a wider foot print for stability and so the spring doesn't slip out or move. So I would usually go with 63.5-65mm (2.5").
The GC perches (and other brands that only include metal pieces) were never comfortable and quiet enough for me. However, I'm really pleased with the Ohlins, they include 4 rubber pads to use as you wish. I then took it a step farther, and used the stock upper pad. I always figure the upper pad will contribute more to comfort than the bottom, might not matter much.
When I write of rubber shims, I'm referring to some 1/8" or 3/16" thick rubber (neoprene) sheet that I cut into a donut. It's exactly what Ohlins has done with the shims they include. Remember, whatever thickness you add or subtract to the sring assembly with have a factor of multiplication of about 1.5x for actual wheel gap at the outter tire/fender. This is due to the swing arc of the rear suspension arms. However, since rubber compresses, you may actually need to pick a thickness of rubber that is equalt o the increase in ride height you want, because once installed, under the wieght of the vehicle, the shim will compress and ride height won't actually be what you may have calculated on paper. That's why I say it's a lot of trial and error. A spring perch is much easier to adjust, but I didn't care for the clunking and popping of the metal on metal on metal of spring to perch to arm esp when going up an uneven surface or driveway.
I can't find much fault with the Turner plates
- big footprint to spread load
- caster and camber adjustment
- replaceable bushings ($60)
- reduction in stack height for more travel, esp if you omit the included spacer.
Perhaps the rubber bushing in the GC plates makes the experience a little more supple, I'm not sure. The poly is not noticeably bad in the plates like it is when used for FCAB or motor mount etc.
The Turner plates are some of the most expensive, GC is a bit cheaper. Turner is no longer turner anyway, it's ECS chinese made stuff. Perhaps it's better to buy US made GC (I think it's all made in-house in CA)
For rear spring, yes I love the trick of putting a liner spring in place of the stock spring, retaining the big and thick stock rubber pads. But it takes a lot of effort to settle on the ride height you want. You need to choose the right spring height, then shim it appropriately till you end up where you want to be. For the 500lb range, that seems to be a 7" spring, 550-600lb a 6.5" spring (hard to find) and 650-7xx a 6" but it's trial and error. As far as inner diameter, I didn't worry about the spring's ID being small enough to capture the nipple of the spring pad well, I wanted a wider foot print for stability and so the spring doesn't slip out or move. So I would usually go with 63.5-65mm (2.5").
The GC perches (and other brands that only include metal pieces) were never comfortable and quiet enough for me. However, I'm really pleased with the Ohlins, they include 4 rubber pads to use as you wish. I then took it a step farther, and used the stock upper pad. I always figure the upper pad will contribute more to comfort than the bottom, might not matter much.
When I write of rubber shims, I'm referring to some 1/8" or 3/16" thick rubber (neoprene) sheet that I cut into a donut. It's exactly what Ohlins has done with the shims they include. Remember, whatever thickness you add or subtract to the sring assembly with have a factor of multiplication of about 1.5x for actual wheel gap at the outter tire/fender. This is due to the swing arc of the rear suspension arms. However, since rubber compresses, you may actually need to pick a thickness of rubber that is equalt o the increase in ride height you want, because once installed, under the wieght of the vehicle, the shim will compress and ride height won't actually be what you may have calculated on paper. That's why I say it's a lot of trial and error. A spring perch is much easier to adjust, but I didn't care for the clunking and popping of the metal on metal on metal of spring to perch to arm esp when going up an uneven surface or driveway.
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