Tyler's 04 slicktop 6spd Silvergrey MCS/Brembo/CSL/Karbonius/Nogaros/Supersprint

[heinzboehmer]

From memory, you drill it all out. You don't need the threads, you're sandwiching the layers of sheet metal.

Hmm, Vince has you keep the threads for his products. You drill up into the trunk with a drill bit that's the same size as the minor diameter of the subframe bolts (~10mm for M12x1.5) and then tap the rest of the insert so you can run the longer studs through. I'm not familiar with the install process for that brace, but I would keep the threads if possible.

Edit:

Vince posted his cross section sketches here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...852#post128852
Good visualization for what I described above.

[Tbonem3]

From memory, you drill it all out. You don't need the threads, you're sandwiching the layers of sheet metal.

[karter16]

[SIZE=14px]Part 2 of 3 in my big muffler/chassis project...

Now, we can drill down with 1/2" bit. Had to borrow my dad's big boy drill for this. Harbor freight $20 drill-master was smokin'

Question on this if you can remember so far back - to clarify where you're drilling down the with half inch bit it's only until you reach the top of the threaded section right? You're not drilling out the threaded section? I presume that the bolt goes up through the subframe and bolts it to the threaded section in the RACP, and then sticks out the top for the x brace to also bolt to?


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[Tbonem3]

Is that on the roadmap?

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Once the kids are a bit older, ya. Nothing else to do with the car at this point and it's too high mileage to be thought of as any sort of investment or collector. I miss my moto days, but my body can only handle a car now

[mrgizmo04]

If I started tracking the car, I'd move to re71rs.

Is that on the roadmap?

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[Tbonem3]

That's exactly why I got them! Light and sticky for high intensity, but short runs. If I started tracking the car, I'd move to re71rs.

[mrgizmo04]

A052s are loved by autox and time attack guys because they stick so well when cold. Some guys who have run these next to Hoosiers slicks equate the grip level, so "200tw" is whatever.

I'm all for rotational inertia, their carcass is light, the problem with it is that they can't tolerate heat. Lap 2 on track they would start overheating and sliding, so naturally you drop pressure, however combined with a super soft sidewall (which I don't like as steering feel is degraded) they roll over. So you have to change your setup to up camber quite a bit to make these semi happy. I experienced insane levels of grip with them, but for my use case I need longevity. If you are going to be bombing down canyons, just monitor how they feel as they heat up and slide.

The other downside of super stickys, as you noted, is rocks in wheel wells. Well, they turn into rocks on your doors/fenders/quarters/bumpers in turns as you load up the outsides of the tires and fling those rocks around while you turn the steering wheel to blast all your paint.

Lack of rim lip protection is also problematic when taking wheels off a lot and dumping on the ground.

So to summarize my experience, while I was impressed with what they can do in terms of grip for a short stint, they were not for me or a lot of other guys running "normal" sessions vs single lap shootouts.

The new RE71RS seem to be really good, I've enjoyed them for a few sessions now.



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[usdmej]

for a 255 tire on a 9.5" wheel, that's not even close to looking stretched! the 200tw tire game is ridiculous these days

[RC Fresh]

I'm considering A052 next. I like their sidewalls giving the meatier look. I hope I can tolerate that they're noiser like u mentioned, I'll have see for myself..

[0-60motorsports]

That's awesome and the car looks so good too

[Tbonem3]

I was not happy with the 9" front wheel (with 245 tire) - it felt no different (pushing/understeer) than 8.5" but had more tire stretch (I don't like the look). I figured instead of going back to 8.5", I owed it to myself to finally try 9.5" up front.

I decided to just buy a whole new set of Apex arc 8s since it was BF anyway (like $300 off). I went with 9.5et35 as I didn't want the poke of the et22, and 10"et25 for the rear (same as I already had). I also wanted to go with 200tw tires this time.

I did a little research and figured I'd need at least 3mm maybe 5mm spacers for the front still, to clear the fat 996 calipers. I also researched tire dimensions, and started focusing on true widths, not the generic "265" figure. I settled on 255/35/18 Yoko A052s since they're about equal in width to PS4S in 265. Then I went with 265 a052 for the rear which are similar to 275 ps4s. I went with yoko a052s are my priorities were dry grip and weight. Light wheels and light tires = me happy.





Once I got them home, I degreased the wheels and tires (tire installation goo). Then I ceramic coated them. I used my best stuff for the fronts, but wanted to try and use up a cheaper, 1 year coating for the rears



Gyeon Pure Evo ^



Wolfgang Uber CSC for the rears ^

Ready to install!




Here you can see how much wider the actual tread width of the 255 yoko is than the 245 ps4s, though yes the left wheel is .5" wider as well.




The 3mm spacer up front was leaving the wheel still a little too close to caliper for my comfort, but 5mm is perfect:





Rears. 275 Ps4s vs. 265 a052:





The rears fit perfectly - I still can use the 3mm spacers to maximize the width, the slightly wider tire just misses the fender. With the 275 PS4s, I still has a couple of MMs of space, so I'm glad there was just enough room for the Yokos and I don't need to bring the wheels inboard at all.



IMPRESSIONS

Wow, incredible levels of grip even without warming the tires up or wearing off the mold release agent. I can't imagine how sticky these'll be after a few drives. They are harsher and louder than michelin. I don't feel much tramlining or having to fight the steering wheel much. Thankfully, I have more grip up front, so that was goal #1. I hated the understeer with 225/235/245 up front. Goal #2 was looks - I hate stratched tires on 18s. I love the meatier look. I don't love how the Yokos dip inwards where they meet the rim (zero rim protection). If I were going purely for looks, I should have gotten the Cup2s. Overall, very very pleased in every department except hearing all the little rocks bounce off my fenders.

Final specs 9.5"et30 x 10"et22 w/ 255/265 A052s 32/34 cold PSI.

[Tbonem3]

Not related to the springs but all this shim talk reminded me, do you use titanium shims in your 996 calipers?

No. I'm satisfied with things now. Since I don't use dampers, if i come across a used, cheap set, maybe I'll grab them for shitzNgigglez.

[Nate047]

Not related to the springs but all this shim talk reminded me, do you use titanium shims in your 996 calipers?

[Tbonem3]

Thank you!

I can't find much fault with the Turner plates
- big footprint to spread load
- caster and camber adjustment
- replaceable bushings ($60)
- reduction in stack height for more travel, esp if you omit the included spacer.

Perhaps the rubber bushing in the GC plates makes the experience a little more supple, I'm not sure. The poly is not noticeably bad in the plates like it is when used for FCAB or motor mount etc.
The Turner plates are some of the most expensive, GC is a bit cheaper. Turner is no longer turner anyway, it's ECS chinese made stuff. Perhaps it's better to buy US made GC (I think it's all made in-house in CA)

For rear spring, yes I love the trick of putting a liner spring in place of the stock spring, retaining the big and thick stock rubber pads. But it takes a lot of effort to settle on the ride height you want. You need to choose the right spring height, then shim it appropriately till you end up where you want to be. For the 500lb range, that seems to be a 7" spring, 550-600lb a 6.5" spring (hard to find) and 650-7xx a 6" but it's trial and error. As far as inner diameter, I didn't worry about the spring's ID being small enough to capture the nipple of the spring pad well, I wanted a wider foot print for stability and so the spring doesn't slip out or move. So I would usually go with 63.5-65mm (2.5").

The GC perches (and other brands that only include metal pieces) were never comfortable and quiet enough for me. However, I'm really pleased with the Ohlins, they include 4 rubber pads to use as you wish. I then took it a step farther, and used the stock upper pad. I always figure the upper pad will contribute more to comfort than the bottom, might not matter much.

When I write of rubber shims, I'm referring to some 1/8" or 3/16" thick rubber (neoprene) sheet that I cut into a donut. It's exactly what Ohlins has done with the shims they include. Remember, whatever thickness you add or subtract to the sring assembly with have a factor of multiplication of about 1.5x for actual wheel gap at the outter tire/fender. This is due to the swing arc of the rear suspension arms. However, since rubber compresses, you may actually need to pick a thickness of rubber that is equalt o the increase in ride height you want, because once installed, under the wieght of the vehicle, the shim will compress and ride height won't actually be what you may have calculated on paper. That's why I say it's a lot of trial and error. A spring perch is much easier to adjust, but I didn't care for the clunking and popping of the metal on metal on metal of spring to perch to arm esp when going up an uneven surface or driveway.

[bavarian3]

What a build thread! Went through the whole thing.

Couple questions:
-Would you still recommend the Turner camber plates, over say a GC street plate? Lack of customer service is concerning.
-If you could do it all over, how would you assemble the rear spring? I'm wondering if it makes more sense to just skip the adjuster and use stock rubber pads adjusting spring length and pad as needed? What exactly are the rubber shims you're referring to?

Awesome stuff!