Black & Tan 332iT

[Bry5on]

Do they make a smaller display that would fit in the SMG area? That would be pretty slick-- especially if it can be turned off when not in use (I kind of get OCDed about cluster asymmetry).

Yep, there’s a 1.54” display that uses the same chip and resolution. And yes again the display can be dimmed or turned off completely. I’m working on this next with my spare cluster. Display is already en route.

[George Hill]

I would think 5* is not enough of a delta. I feel like when we were last logging this info and chasing a bad radiator (CSF), we ultimately found after putting a OE BMW rad in it that we had a 10-15+/-*c delta. I think on that car we were seeing 94 at the engine and then 82 at the rad outlet, I don't think it ever got into the 70s.

[Obioban]

Do they make a smaller display that would fit in the SMG area? That would be pretty slick-- especially if it can be turned off when not in use (I kind of get OCDed about cluster asymmetry).

[Bry5on]

So I bought a Nissens radiator during the great Modine stock-out of 2022, and it turns out I paid the price. This radiator will be going back under warranty, and I’ll see if I can get away with keeping it to dissect for science. All cooling problem signs are pointing to the radiator as it’s failing on the inlet seam. Likely internal blockage.

[Bry5on]

I've spent the week datalogging and mapping some of the CAN parameters, learned a bunch!

On my cooling system: I'm seeing anywhere from 5-10 degrees C between coolant temp and radiator outlet temp on 65F (18C) days here in CA while driving. This seems rather low, although I have nothing to compare against. Has anyone got any information on what I should be seeing here? Ironically, cooling performance seems best at idle, where I see about 15C delta. Maybe this triple pass radiator from Nissens is acting more like a single pass radiator? George Hill ?

So far, in k-bus/CAN and now my datalogs, I've mapped:

K-bus
* Engine speed (RPM)
* Engine load (mg fuel/stroke)
* Mass Air flow (kg/hr)
* TPS position (%)
* TPS target position (%)
* Air intake temp (C)
* Coolant Temp (C)
* Radiator Temp (C)
* Oil Temp (C)
* Ambient Temp (C)
* Exhaust Gas Temp (C) ------- Anyone know the correct scalar for this on the k-bus??
* Battery Voltage (V)
* ECU Master and Slave voltages (V)
* Ambient pressure (mbar)
* Relative open throttle cross section (%)
* Throttle pedal positions 1 & 2 (%)
* Analog input configured for Wideband O2

CAN bus
* Cruise control buttons (to control the Gauge.S interface)
* Cruise control status (to inert the buttons while cruise is on)
* Speedometer (kph/mph)
* Engine speed (RPM)
* Engine theoretical torque (%, includes torque going to accessories)
* Engine torque (%, just motive torque)
* Steering Angle (degrees)
* Brake pedal status (1/0)
* Clutch pedal status (1/0)
* DSC off (1/0)
* DSC actively in control of car (1/0)
* MSR/Ignition cut DSC torque reduction (%)
* Throttle cut DSC torque reduction (%)

Calculated parameters
* Gear (1-6, 0)
* Smoothed G acceleration, average of last 5 datapoints (currently using Gauge.S built-in accelerometers)

CAN bus still in work
* Lateral DSC acceleration (G or m/s^2)
* Longitudinal DSC acceleration (G or m/s^2)
* Yaw
* Individual wheel speeds

Since I made a harness to connect this to the OBD port, this device can be plugged into any e46 to log k-bus parameters, and if you wire CAN Hi and CAN Lo from the steering angle sensor to your OBD2 plug, can log everything above, just by plugging in the device. Temporarily I have it adhered in front of the cluster, but I'm looking into getting a smaller 1.54" display that will fit everything into the SMG/automatic insert section of the instrument cluster. Really impressed with this! Hard to grab good photos because the camera catches the refresh rate, here are a few examples:






General update on the car, it's doing its job as a car just great, and I'm reminded that it's an s54 because I've started to smell a faint burning oil smell from the cabin again. Guessing it'll be the valve cover gasket this time.

Plus the view out the back with a big bike:

[nuc1]

More updates on the steering shaft later - in the meantime, I've been busy working on improving datalogging by using Gauge.S. I've successfully brought CAN to the OBD port and am now using the CAN cruise control buttons to operate the device that logs parameters on the CAN bus and the K-bus. Really cool piece of kit, I might go so far as to permanently install it somewhere hidden, like in the ash tray or something.

Lots of logs with lots of data available, here are a few:

https://datazap.me/u/bry5on/gauges11?log=0&data=1-21

https://datazap.me/u/bry5on/gauges9?log=0&data=1&solo=5

https://datazap.me/u/bry5on/gauges-8...ta=4-25&solo=2

That is really cool. Defintiely going to look into this.

Mike

[Bry5on]

More updates on the steering shaft later - in the meantime, I've been busy working on improving datalogging by using Gauge.S. I've successfully brought CAN to the OBD port and am now using the CAN cruise control buttons to operate the device that logs parameters on the CAN bus and the K-bus. Really cool piece of kit, I might go so far as to permanently install it somewhere hidden, like in the ash tray or something.

Lots of logs with lots of data available, here are a few:

https://datazap.me/u/bry5on/gauges11?log=0&data=1-21

https://datazap.me/u/bry5on/gauges9?log=0&data=1&solo=5

https://datazap.me/u/bry5on/gauges-8...ta=4-25&solo=2

In the data plot above, you can see how much faster the data rate is over CAN than the k-bus. RPM long is over CAN and the others are k-bus. If you look close you can also see DSC intervening there

And some photos of the setup (screen looks normal in person):

[stephen]

I am also giving up on my u-joint replacement as I ordered one of these, which just simplifies everything:
https://www.steeringlpsr.com/product...column-linkage

And if that doesn't work well or seem legit, I'll order a RHD steering shaft and install a solid bushing replacement in it. I'm kicking myself for not thinking of that solution earlier. So simple!

I also recently placed an order for one of these, fingers crossed it's a quality product; E34 u-joint in my E36 is one of my favorite mods. Really sharpens up the steering.

[usdmej]

great build and wow what an excellent attention to detail!

[0-60motorsports]

I have the wide angle e90 side mirror glass and love them. Auto dimming would be cool too as I love the ones on my E70 X5M and the M3 can benefit from that function.

[Bry5on]

I am also giving up on my u-joint replacement as I ordered one of these, which just simplifies everything:
https://www.steeringlpsr.com/product...column-linkage

And if that doesn't work well or seem legit, I'll order a RHD steering shaft and install a solid bushing replacement in it. I'm kicking myself for not thinking of that solution earlier. So simple!

[Bry5on]

I was a little under the weather this weekend, so I decided that a nice leisurely activity would be to swing by the junk yard to look for auto dimming e90 sport mirrors for my M3 mirrors which will go on some day. Well, I found some, and also managed to find a bunch of little things that all made small improvements.

The auto-dimming mirror glass (I brought a battery and tested them both) that I paid a whopping $5 for, fitted into M3 mirrors:


The late e46 insulated foot well cover that replaced my cracking non-insulated one:


A late e46 HVAC control panel, cleaned thoroughly before installing:



And last, a driver's seat memory module, harness and motor. Lately I've been letting a few people drive my car and I was reminded that 1) the rocker switch is a little hard to find on the seat side and 2) I like having seat and mirror memory. At basically no cost or weight penalty, I tore this thing down, removed the seat tilt button, de-pinned and de-wired all of the no longer useful wiring and pins, then adhered the memory module to the side of the recaro seat base with double sided tape. Memory seats are nice to have again!

[Bry5on]

Now I've done the math and given this a bit more thought. Flexures have been thinned out a bit to .008", I'll be using 301 tempered stainless spring steel and can get away with anywhere between 4-8 flexures and still outperform the adjacent aluminum parts. That said, I still want a safety net for a part like this in the steering system, so three positions will get keepers in place of washers, clocked 90 degrees apart, which will keep the steering functional even in the event of catastrophic failure of all of the springs. Overall, it's over constrained, so we'll have to see how this works in practice. First four springs hidden for clarity:

[Bry5on]

Alright, the parts for v2 of the solid steering coupler are on order. This time using 7 or 8 .030" 304 stainless steel flexures to replace the rubber bushing.

My first go at this using spherical bearings didn't end up to my liking once I'd finally assembled it all, and I like this solution better anyway. This one is simpler, cheaper and has no wear parts.

[Bry5on]

Two different welders came out today to knock out the last of the jobs that I was really not looking forward to. This am, I swung by Kevin’s place and had a friend who’s good with a torch weld in v-brace mounts for the OEM M3 underbody brace. This gave a nice increase in stiffness, but more noticeably removed a little post-bump vibration from the rear end. The rear is caught up with the front now



After a burrito, I decided to tackle the M3 header/AC line heat shield that’s on all M3s. This part is skipped on every single swap I’ve ever seen, and we’re not having that. Using factory BMW coarse thread studs, we successfully stud welded the missing three frame rail studs to attach that last missing heat shield, and I can rest easy. Since I had to evacuate the AC system to remove the lines for stud welder clearance, I took the opportunity to recharge the AC (evacuation reported it was only 70% full, missing 200 grams of R134).