Originally posted by Obioban
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Black & Tan 332iT
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Allegedly, although I’ve only been able to find two different colors in my Internet sleuthing - convertible v coupe.
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Agreed the late model cars got higher— but didn’t the specific springs vary by car spec?
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No big updates, still slow rolling the super knuckle..
In the meantime, the car has been absolutely fantastic, suspension and is super quick and tight. A few years back I removed aftermarket springs to put on Heinz’s original M3 springs from his early model car (thanks man!) but they were pretty rusty in the rear and I’d always heard that late models sat higher. Since I like me some ground clearance, I installed 6mm front spacers to raise the height with the stock early M3 springs.
So today I replaced those springs with a set of late model ones from a ZCP car. Early springs have 1/4 yellow stripes F/R and late model springs have 1 blue front and 4 green rear. Caliper measurements had them within .5mm diameter of each other (honestly within margin of error and powdercoat thickness) and the same coil count. So on first blush it looks like the springs are the same rate. The front springs free length are about 20mm taller on the late model, and I forgot to measure the rears.
Because they measured taller, I took a chance by removing my 6mm spring spacers. After removing the spacers and installing the late model springs, I’m measuring 2mm higher in front and 9mm higher in rear. From this I can conclude that at least in this instance, the late model springs are 8mm taller in front and 9mm taller in rear. Glad to have swapped them out!
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Somehow I got confused and ordered 2 left side plates. Now that I look at it again, the cart opens up with 2 plates for each side. It is only a couple dollars more for a 2nd pair so why not?Originally posted by Bry5on View PostIf you want to order/recreate this on your own car, click this link and get a set for yourself! https://cart.sendcutsend.com/chn7orju3zid
Just wanted to warn my fellow morons...lol
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Holy shit...I feel like I've been missing out on life not following this build thread. This is the exact answer to the question I am pondering! I run 200lbs of ballast for NASA. I will likely need to run another 25 lbs and I can run 25 more lbs if I run lower fuel loads. The advantage is the ballast can help optimize static weight distribution.Originally posted by Bry5on View PostWhile driving my wife's car on a roadtrip this weekend, it dawned on me that I hadn't checked to see whether my spare tire in the trunk actually fits over the M3 brakes. So once we got home, I pulled it out of the trunk and took a couple measurements of the 16" donut spare that verified, no, it will not clear the M3 brakes. I've been carrying 26lb of dead weight for no reason. Gone now.
This got me thinking about weight some more, and particularly how it relates to roll couples (much of your roll stiffness is dictated by roll center height and CG height) so I decided to add a quick calculation of roll degree change to my weight calculator since I've already modeled the roll center height (of the front at least) here. I assumed 4" for the rear and entered 3" into the calculator as it would average at the CG. While I was at it I ordered an 18.5lb 60Ah antigravity battery.
Playing around with the numbers yields some interesting things! Removing the sunroof on an e46 touring means your car will roll almost exactly 3% less in a corner, these numbers should be almost exactly the same as a regular e46 coupe/sedan with the non-m sedan having the most benefit from the change (taller roof, lighter car). My roof rack setup makes the car roll almost 5% more alone! Anyway, it's attached if anyone is interested in doing their own math. Mine points to a pretty easy 150lb weight removal opportunity which results in 49.8/50.2 F/R weight distribution (again, with a full tank. 51/49 empty), assuming I can make a hitch mount for the bikes that doesn't add a bunch of weight.
I want to start from zero when I get the FCM suspension installed, optimize the ride heights and then figure out the best place to locate the ballast. This spreadsheet will make life WAY easier!
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Belated congrats! Hopefully your wife is getting some sleep!Originally posted by Bry5on View PostWell I've been busy for the past few weeks as my wife and I had our first child! Apologies if you've PMed me and I haven't gotten back to you yet - I will! I'm typing this one handed with a baby in the other arm..
Finally had a chance to go through this whole build thread. Fantastic!
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I feel like the screen resolution is part of the charm. Have a similar wireless CarPlay situation in my 100 series, and love it 😜
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Got the car up on the lift today to do control arms and bushings. These things are getting expensive at almost $900! This set appears to have lasted 200k miles and was juuust developing a little outer ball joint play. Since the rest of the car is dialed in, you could feel this in the wheel and it needed fixing. Decided not to wait for the super knuckle to be finished.
Also got to installing a Baris - Carphonics CarPlay retrofit into the folks’ e39 touring. Nice kit, relatively easy installation (of course harder to get to the mic connector in the touring), but the screen resolution still sucks!
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Oh My! This wagon is going to be wicked!Originally posted by Bry5on View PostWell, I guess we’re getting to the body work portion of this build finally.
These ZHP bumper inserts for the M3 muffler arrived from Ukraine:
And these arrived (and are waiting at George’s shop, along with my carbon roof. Thanks George) also from Eastern Europe:
All told that’s 110lb weight savings and 6% body roll reduction.
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Well, I guess we’re getting to the body work portion of this build finally.
These ZHP bumper inserts for the M3 muffler arrived from Ukraine:
And these arrived (and are waiting at George’s shop, along with my carbon roof. Thanks George) also from Eastern Europe:
All told that’s 110lb weight savings and 6% body roll reduction.
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