Originally posted by Bry5on
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Ah congratulations to you both! Very pleased to hear!!! Enjoy this special time :-)Originally posted by Bry5on View PostWell I've been busy for the past few weeks as my wife and I had our first child! Apologies if you've PMed me and I haven't gotten back to you yet - I will! I'm typing this one handed with a baby in the other arm..
In the meantime, a question for you: Big bike or small car?
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Well I've been busy for the past few weeks as my wife and I had our first child! Apologies if you've PMed me and I haven't gotten back to you yet - I will! I'm typing this one handed with a baby in the other arm..
In the meantime, a question for you: Big bike or small car?
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I’m in awe of the engineering effort happening here. Keep it up!
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One way or another we’ll find the way!Originally posted by George Hill View Post
I assumed (haha, yes I know) that the sensor to bearing design/location would be the same or close enough for either option. But that is a good point about the E6x M cars being an option.
When the time comes I'll cross the MCS bridge if needed, not a total issue right now but I would prefer the SK because it just looks so wild, it'll be fitting on Eileen especially with all the carbon
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I assumed (haha, yes I know) that the sensor to bearing design/location would be the same or close enough for either option. But that is a good point about the E6x M cars being an option.Originally posted by Bry5on View Post
You should check the mounting/sensors for e60 M5 knuckle. The M5 uses the e9x style sensing and if the knuckle has the same sensor mounting as the non-M5 e60, that’d do it for you. Just use the e60 M5 stuff up front in either knuckle.
Also we could technically weld to this super knuckle to add a saddle clamp and make it MCS compatible… after testing the base design of course.
When the time comes I'll cross the MCS bridge if needed, not a total issue right now but I would prefer the SK because it just looks so wild, it'll be fitting on Eileen especially with all the carbon
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You should check the mounting/sensors for e60 M5 knuckle. The M5 uses the e9x style sensing and if the knuckle has the same sensor mounting as the non-M5 e60, that’d do it for you. Just use the e60 M5 stuff up front in either knuckle.Originally posted by George Hill View PostYes, I've been watching their development and its pretty cool. I like all the features they've built into it (even if they are not ideal for every instance). I look at it like they too Bryson's idea and made it more applicable to scaling and mass adoption. I feel like Bryson's takes what they've done to the next level without any constraints.
For my project I need to run an E9x front wheel bearing but now that I have MCS's I'm stuck in the middle, haha.
Either way Bryson's SK is now waiting on me, I need to get on the lathe and make the ball joint inserts.
Also we could technically weld to this super knuckle to add a saddle clamp and make it MCS compatible… after testing the base design of course.
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Yes, I've been watching their development and its pretty cool. I like all the features they've built into it (even if they are not ideal for every instance). I look at it like they too Bryson's idea and made it more applicable to scaling and mass adoption. I feel like Bryson's takes what they've done to the next level without any constraints.
For my project I need to run an E9x front wheel bearing but now that I have MCS's I'm stuck in the middle, haha.
Either way Bryson's SK is now waiting on me, I need to get on the lathe and make the ball joint inserts.
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I agree, I’m digging this! I like their approach to keeping it a CNC part too. Their version will be compatible with MCS coilovers, which is cool, but at the cost of some negative camber loss in the corners.Originally posted by karter16 View Post
I've noticed this pattern a few times now - the developments that happen on this forum are certainly watched by others! The more the better IMHO as it all helps drive innovation and options for the community!
George and I are scheming a setup to test the super knuckle and a factory knuckle to failure on an actual chassis, so we’ll be able to quantify the camber loss while we’re at it.
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I've noticed this pattern a few times now - the developments that happen on this forum are certainly watched by others! The more the better IMHO as it all helps drive innovation and options for the community!Originally posted by Bry5on View PostThe super knuckle has a CNC machined admirer!
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The super knuckle has a CNC machined admirer! Looks like they’re using the same insert strategy too. This one is for 25mm lowered cars (probably most M3s) and claims to correct geometry. Good idea but at 25mm lower it’s probably moving the KPI and scrub radius in order to not impact or be too close to the rotor. I also wonder what the weight is! Using the same e60 wheel bearing & sensor which is pretty heavy. Very cool!
230 likes, 12 comments - strommotorsports on November 15, 2025: "Our new E46 Uprights have been in daily testing on our E46 street car but now get the race car curb jumping treatment in an upcoming two day test at Chuckwalla and Thermal. While we spent a lot of time in CAD optimizing these with FEA there is nothing like validating the real thing. These uprights will fit an E36 or E46 with a press in stainless steel insert and provide 25mm of correction for the control arm and tie rod on a lowered car to remove bump steer and improve the camber curve meaning you can run less static camber. They are meant to replace arms that use a long bolt and spacers to both increase the amount of correction and also not try to wreck you randomly. They are also much stronger than the stock cast steel factory upright which we have had bend many times in hard racing or from even minor contact. They have an E46 M3 caliper mount and use an E92 M3 wheel bearing or similar and with the early E60 wheel speed sensor your ABS will still operate normally. Ready to go for Nov 19-20 and if all validation goes well then it’s time for release. Retail pricing will be $2399 for a set but we will have a reduced price initial group buy like we did with our E9x uprights. #strommototsports #e46uprights #billet".
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Yeah I printed the carrier and a selector rod. All pivot surfaces are delrin, reamed holes, and high tolerance shoulder bolts. Zero slop or play. I did a gs6-37bz conversion on my e36 s54 car and originally I had an off the shelf conversion kit/carrier but the carrier fit really badly with my setup and needed a ton of rubber bushing deflection to even install in the car, and that prevented me from using stiffer carrier bushings. Also the pivot height and giubo clearance made for a super tall shift throw. I don't want to crap up your thread but I have more info here:
Hi All, I just bought this 97 m3 with an S54 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhMODcDJ-q8 Details: S54 Swap using second gen can interface from gpeterson PO did rod bearings with WPC treated OEM and new rod bolts, vanos rebuilt, and valve lash checked Getrag 420g out of a euro s50b32 car 3.64 LSD PO did all bushings, ball
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Clever idea to do a shifter. Did you go full ham and put bearings in it? Looks like there’s a grub screw hole there. Did you also print the carrier, and if so did you do the e39 M5 style double grommet trick with the extended bitch clip? Always wondered if that would help the M3 shift quality.Originally posted by 3staxontheradio View PostI haven't used them yet. I have used ProtoTI and 3DPNXT also on craftcloud. I started adding a production note asking them to leave 1-2mm of all support interfaces attached so I could grind them off myself. I think these places are pumping out parts and they aren't that careful with post processing. My first shift lever revision the ball was so out of round from being overground I couldn't use it.
This is what it looked like with the support remnants and after I did the removal:
Definitely more printed parts in my future - I really want an excuse to do something from Ti too.
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I haven't used them yet. I have used ProtoTI and 3DPNXT also on craftcloud. I started adding a production note asking them to leave 1-2mm of all support interfaces attached so I could grind them off myself. I think these places are pumping out parts and they aren't that careful with post processing. My first shift lever revision the ball was so out of round from being overground I couldn't use it.
This is what it looked like with the support remnants and after I did the removal:
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I used Shenzhen 3D Innovate through Craftcloud. The second article (other side) had a little more excess removal than the first, so I may have to give the bearing surface a grind to make it nice and flat.Originally posted by 3staxontheradio View PostWho did the printing for your uprights? The support removal looks really good and not excessive like I have had on some of my parts.
On closer inspections the holes didn’t come in under by .2mm, they were holding cylindricity of about .2mm. The ream operation made that clear.
Otherwise they both came out pretty well.
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