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Black & Tan 332iT

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  • karter16
    replied
    Originally posted by George Hill View Post
    I think you should be fine everywhere except the lower (2) rear holes. Right below that hole I have drilled is some structure. With the calipers flat, tons of room, angle them down ever so slightly and contact.
    Amazing - thanks George Hill that's super helpful! good to know re the lowest holes. My thinking is to structural epoxy for the shear load with rivets to deal with any peeling load. So even if I can't hit those lowest holes it should be fine. Thanks for taking the time to check for me!

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  • George Hill
    replied
    I think you should be fine everywhere except the lower (2) rear holes. Right below that hole I have drilled is some structure. With the calipers flat, tons of room, angle them down ever so slightly and contact.






    Leave a comment:


  • karter16
    replied
    Originally posted by Bry5on View Post
    3) I got to installing the fender brace with these awesome new rivet nuts (definitely recommend). Fitting up:
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    Do you happen to know what the minimum clear air is on the other side of the bolt holes? I'm looking at riveting rather than bolting, but would need about 30mm of clearance to fully insert the rivets before crushing them. Wondering if it's clear air back there or additional layers of sheet metal etc. that might be in the way.

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  • Bry5on
    replied
    Originally posted by karter16 View Post

    Also would the rubber resin grip the rotary encoder shaft well enough?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I’ll keep thinking on this as I think all printing methods are out for one reason or another. Maybe a tiny mold and pourable silicone or TPU would do it. Mold the soft stuff right on to a plastic center

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  • karter16
    replied
    Originally posted by Bry5on View Post

    Farm out is the plan. Looks like they're about $30 a piece or so. Am I crazy for considering just printing the whole thing in 60A rubber-like-resin?
    Also would the rubber resin grip the rotary encoder shaft well enough?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by Bry5on View Post
    Oof, thanks for sparing me the pain of that mistake. Now I'm trying to convince myself that this ABS plastic is good enough
    Single data point, but my phone holder is printed in ABS and has seen many, many hours of direct sun. No warping or deformation that I can see.

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  • 0-60motorsports
    replied
    Originally posted by Bry5on View Post
    Alright I’m happy with V3. Just 1mm shorter than V2 and feels right. Time to figure out SLA printing​
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    Those look great

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  • Bry5on
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

    Just don't park the car in the sun! lol
    Oof, thanks for sparing me the pain of that mistake. Now I'm trying to convince myself that this ABS plastic is good enough

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by Bry5on View Post
    Am I crazy for considering just printing the whole thing in 60A rubber-like-resin?
    Just don't park the car in the sun! lol

    Leave a comment:


  • Bry5on
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
    Wow, I'm surprised at how different V3 looks to V2 after such a small change. Agreed that V3 is the way to go.

    Gonna farm out the SLA print? Or new toy incoming?
    Farm out is the plan. Looks like they're about $30 a piece or so. Am I crazy for considering just printing the whole thing in 60A rubber-like-resin?

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Wow, I'm surprised at how different V3 looks to V2 after such a small change. Agreed that V3 is the way to go.

    Gonna farm out the SLA print? Or new toy incoming?

    Leave a comment:


  • karter16
    replied
    that looks really good! great job!

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  • Bry5on
    replied
    Alright I’m happy with V3. Just 1mm shorter than V2 and feels right. Time to figure out SLA printing​
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  • Bry5on
    replied
    V2 is looking much better
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  • Bry5on
    replied
    Alright not super happy with v1, it's a little long and it repeats a problem that XTRONS themselves designed in where the button underlaps the fascia at the bottom:
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    v2 in the printer now, the button itself is 3.5mm shorter and 1mm larger OD at the tip transition. Also easier to print as a bonus:
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