Originally posted by Bry5on
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Originally posted by puma1824 View PostWow that nice weight savings! I need to look into those batteries. The tech looks pretty cool. Definitely a premium. i need to recover a little from my build before picking one up lol.
I’m currently looking into the aluminum version of the Westfalia hitch, as it’s lighter and also has a bolt pattern for replacing the ball adapter with a hitch mount. I’d expect to drop another 40lb, all from above the roof, after accounting for the added hitch weight. Thanks Gt4 !
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Wow that nice weight savings! I need to look into those batteries. The tech looks pretty cool. Definitely a premium. i need to recover a little from my build before picking one up lol.
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Originally posted by Bry5on View Post
I’ve been looking into doing this! Do you have any pictures? There are zero pictures of the fixed ball setup online. Thanks!
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ch-suggestions
Looking at the pics, it was a 1-1/4’’ receiver. The 2’’ receiver was a modification I made to my BMW F31 hitch!
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Originally posted by Gt4 View PostFor the hitch, I had a Westfalia hitch on my E46 Touring. I bought the one without the removable ball and modified it with a 2’’ receiver instead! Best hitch on the market. Not in the same league as the Curt option…
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For the hitch, I had a Westfalia hitch on my E46 Touring. I bought the one without the removable ball and modified it with a 2’’ receiver instead! Best hitch on the market. Not in the same league as the Curt option…
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Awesome info Bry5on Makes me feel a little better that I eliminated both the sunroof and the roof rails from my car. I hope to get a CF roof when available but not sure if that will be available any time soon. Also a little concerned about if I can find a qualified shop to install it when the time comes.Last edited by puma1824; 02-26-2023, 07:46 PM.
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While driving my wife's car on a roadtrip this weekend, it dawned on me that I hadn't checked to see whether my spare tire in the trunk actually fits over the M3 brakes. So once we got home, I pulled it out of the trunk and took a couple measurements of the 16" donut spare that verified, no, it will not clear the M3 brakes. I've been carrying 26lb of dead weight for no reason. Gone now.
This got me thinking about weight some more, and particularly how it relates to roll couples (much of your roll stiffness is dictated by roll center height and CG height) so I decided to add a quick calculation of roll degree change to my weight calculator since I've already modeled the roll center height (of the front at least) here. I assumed 4" for the rear and entered 3" into the calculator as it would average at the CG. While I was at it I ordered an 18.5lb 60Ah antigravity battery.
Playing around with the numbers yields some interesting things! Removing the sunroof on an e46 touring means your car will roll almost exactly 3% less in a corner, these numbers should be almost exactly the same as a regular e46 coupe/sedan with the non-m sedan having the most benefit from the change (taller roof, lighter car). My roof rack setup makes the car roll almost 5% more alone! Anyway, it's attached if anyone is interested in doing their own math. Mine points to a pretty easy 150lb weight removal opportunity which results in 49.8/50.2 F/R weight distribution (again, with a full tank. 51/49 empty), assuming I can make a hitch mount for the bikes that doesn't add a bunch of weight.
Last edited by Bry5on; 02-26-2023, 07:14 PM.
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Originally posted by Bry5on View Post
No limiters, but I can feel a little squirm under acceleration in the first two gears with my alignment set to my preferred version of the CSL range. I’m running .06* total toe in front and .16* rear, the middle and most toe in of CSL spec, respectively. I’ve been considering making some limiters that I can install without dropping the mount and losing my alignment..
on the fuel tank - Yep, I forgot that point. I’ll only need the very chassis for about 150 miles while I seat the rings. Then it’s time to strip it all.
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Originally posted by Bry5on View Post
Thank you! I did finish wiring it up to the factory mic, but alas, the cheapness of the Avin engineering shines bright. The mic input is connected through the Avin’s Bluetooth module directly, and as I use CarPlay the Avin does not use the mic plug from the back, but uses the built in mic on the front of the panel at all times. Callers on the other end of your CarPlay phone calls will report no difference in audio quality whether a mic is plugged in or not, and in fact folks on the other end of my calls heard a sawtooth like interference noise. Undoubtedly due to crappy layout of the traces on the board that lead to the microphone input. I opened the Avin unit up, disconnected the internal mic, and under no circumstance did any audio come through from my end.
When using the factory mic with the Avin unit over Bluetooth (which means no CarPlay), sound is clear but quiet, and unfortunately I never did test the original mic in its place.
At some point in the future, next time the dash is apart, I’m going to have to take apart the Avin unit, trace the circuit and hard wire this mic in place of the front panel one. Probably by bypassing as much of the board traces as possible..
Eventually, I’ll get this one right as I’m really tired of putting headphones in when I get a call.
A couple photos of the cab mic. If anyone knows the part numbers for the mating plug and contacts, I’m interested!
Hope you don't mind but I'm going to send you a PM. Have a quick question but don't want to derail your thread.
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Originally posted by tlow98 View Post
Gripe, gripe, gripe Im in :-)
I’ll trade ya for some SMG to manual coding. The vendor that sold me the bell housing went AWOL on the tuning portion - terrific!
Also, you want the v-brace stuff from the vert before or after diff install?
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Originally posted by tlow98 View Post
interesting note about the shifting being smoother with the stock parts. Maybe I’ll give the stock RTABs a try after all. Did you put any of the limiters on with them?
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Originally posted by Bry5on View PostLow key couple of weeks. Took the time today to trim the intake duct a la M3 CSL along with a car wash and vacuum as it was getting pretty messy. Excuse the power wire that’s connected to my wideband for datalogging purposes (did my own WOT tune using Tunerpro). I also received the missing heat shield that keeps the AC working well. Gotta add a few nutserts to the frame rail and get that thing installed. The right time to do this is when the engine is out..
I also caved and ordered a Wavetrac and 3 new CV joints (diff from diffsonline). I loved the Torsen in my old 6-speed Z3 coupe and the diff in this M3 is tired. Goodbye m-clunk! Thanks in advance heinzboehmer and/or Trent for the extra hands.
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I’ll trade ya for some SMG to manual coding. The vendor that sold me the bell housing went AWOL on the tuning portion - terrific!
Also, you want the v-brace stuff from the vert before or after diff install?
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