ugaexploder's 2004 SG/IR - 1st e46 M3

[ugaexploder]

Most of the body stickers are doing okay except for the "emissions" sticker under the hood. Seems like water likes to crawl under there on the edge of the sticker. They apparently made a version for each year I believe, and the one that has "2003" on it is NLA. I went ahead with 71227837109 which is for 2006 models. Don't think it really matters, but something to consider if you end up ordering a replacement.



Found a weird little passive RF tag stuck to the foam under the LCM. Was really a pain in the ass to get off, thankfully the sticky side dried up and made it easier for me. I did a little research and some believe it was a tag to help identify car configuration. I think it's just a cheap little RF tag used in conjunction with some old school lojack type deal. Oh well.

[ugaexploder]

you always learn something new when working on these cars. something i just learned was that the INPA cable doesn't work for PASOFT. it seems like you need to have separate cables for each one which i did not know. so I was trying to load D2XX drivers onto the INPA cable which doesn't work. I don't think I ruined the INPA cable, just need to load the VCP drivers on there I think. was super frustrating...I was thinking the whole time, it was an issue with Windows 11 since there seem to be a bunch of people saying BMWScanner/PASOFT only works on XP yada yada.

Anyway, I'm just waiting on a cable for BMWScanner to code my modified LCM to get the x-blink functionality. Seems like 5 blinks is the sweet spot. While I had the LCM out, I noticed the vent and LCM were missing a screw and body nut...so waiting on that as well, even though I'm sure it doesn't need both screws. That kind of stuff just annoys me so I need to have all screws in place.

Decided I'll go ahead and change out the front TPS and MAF as well since I'll eventually go CSL intake so i figured i'd just use the new MAF I have for the next few years or months until I get the CSL intake installed. Both TPS and MAF looked pretty old so I'm glad I did. They no longer sell the VNE TPS on FCP Euro last time I checked, you can only buy Genuine BMW from them now.

[Slideways]

that's a really cool feature, i'm pretty sure the noco's don't have that. hmm, i'll have to look into picking up a ctek, maybe a 5A since I can still probably use the noco 10A for doing any coding.

NOCO 3500 and up should have the 12V repair - https://no.co/support/sulfation-and-battery-repair-mode

[ugaexploder]

Use a ctek charger and do the battery recond function and it should sort your battery out. I love their charges and they have done wonders on my batteries.

that's a really cool feature, i'm pretty sure the noco's don't have that. hmm, i'll have to look into picking up a ctek, maybe a 5A since I can still probably use the noco 10A for doing any coding.

[0-60motorsports]

Use a ctek charger and do the battery recond function and it should sort your battery out. I love their charges and they have done wonders on my batteries.

[ugaexploder]

I just realized that I never did the coding in ECUWorx or similar to disable cat protection, cat heating sequence, etc.

Hoping this can help solve the tank-venting issue...or at least not pop the SES light on me

Modified .bin file with following changes on 10-12-24:
-enabled 6mt shift light settings to always active (thought it was enabled already…)
-matched “dyno rev limit” and “rev limit (all gears + N)” to 8k rpm
-155mph limiter removal
-check “Disable SAP / Cat Heating Sequence”
-check “Disable Cat Protection (Disables enrichment)”

BEFORE



AFTER

[ugaexploder]

Did you clear codes before this last read? A lot of those (e.g. CAN timeouts) can be caused by an undervoltage event. Maybe when you disconnected the battery?

I cleared codes through INPA to get rid of an SES light recently to try and reset readiness to pass emissions. not sure if that would've cleared these codes doing that. I can see if I can clear each code individually with the scanner. There is a possibility that the battery got pretty low during its time at the body shop or maybe they had it disconnected for some time so I'm hoping that's it!

[heinzboehmer]

Did you clear codes before this last read? A lot of those (e.g. CAN timeouts) can be caused by an undervoltage event. Maybe when you disconnected the battery?

[ugaexploder]

so I checked the wheel speed sensors and they all were giving a reading and none of them stuck at 0 while moving back and forth in my driveway. I decided to take the car for a drive and it drove very well for the first 30 minutes or so. On my way back home, it gave me SES light. Hooked up my scanner and pulled a bunch of codes. Worst of all, the tank-venting system code is still there which is not going to allow me to pass emissions. I've replaced the vent valve, DTML pump, charcoal cannister, and smoke checked with no leaks. I read somewhere that it needs to go through the drive cycle and turn this code on to eventually turn it off? I'm not buying that one but kinda lost on what to do next to pass emissions. The "trifecta" lights never appeared but the 5E14 and 5E3C codes remain.

ERROR CODES pulled on 10-11-2024
E8 – DME: Function check, tank-venting system
33 – GM: Wipers: interlock active
3D – GM: Drive for rear-lid unlocking
74 – GM: Spray-nozzle heater, left open circuit
76 – GM: Spray-nozzle heater, right open circuit
5E14 – ABS-DSC: CAN connection to DME/DDE (DSC lamp on until ignition reset)
5E3C – ABS-DSC: Rotation rate signal
20 – IHKA: AUC heating -> purchase BMW AUC Climate Control Sensor - Genuine BMW 64116917001
10 – PDC: Converter, rear left
C7 – KOMBI: Tank lever-type sensor 1
CE – KOMBI: Outside-temperature sensor
F4 – KOMBI: No CAN identification
F7 – KOMBI: No CAN identification (DME)
F8 – KOMBIE: No CAN identification (DME)
1E – LSZ2: Control-unit fault in HVAC section
1F – LSZ2: Coils, stepping motors faulty

[ugaexploder]

alright so just to rule out the battery, i went ahead and tested it. the battery came with the car and it seems to be in okay condition. i don't really have a hard set rule on when to replace regarding state-of-health (SOH) on a battery. Some people say always stay above 80%, others say change it at 50-60% and of course a lot of people just replace it when it doesn't start the car anymore. i just wanted to check it out since i've seen enough posts about how dying battery can throw a bunch of false positives. things look good for now battery wise






still trying to figure out the "trifecta" situation so i looked at the "live" data on the scanner. not sure what to think regarding yaw sensor, some of the data does seem off. I thought it should read 0 deg/sec when just parked on level ground and not moving. at this point i am leaning toward replacing the yaw sensor with a used one. and the brake pressure switches are above 0, but not crazy...and they did change simultaneously when applying brake pressure. still going to check the wheel speed sensors in a parking lot here shortly to see if they are all sending a signal.

[ugaexploder]

I used the little foxwell scanner since i couldn't get INPA working right and pulled the following codes:

5E14	CAN Timeout DME/DDE

5E3C	Rotation rate sensor not plausible

Before pulling codes and talking to some folks, I think the immediate reaction was to replace one of the wheel sensors but after looking a bit more into the codes it sounds like the 5E3C code could be the yaw sensor under the driver's seat. I'm hoping the 5E14 is just a bad/dirty connection to the ABS unit and I don't have to replace one of the DSC pressure switches. I'm going to use the scanner to see what's going on with the pressure switches later.

I'm kind of glad that these codes are not pointing to the wheel speed sensors since i was going down the rabbit hole in thinking i would also have to replace reluctor rings, etc. anyway, let's see what happens after i replace the yaw sensor and maybe re-seat the abs connector. it's weird because for a few weeks now i've been experiencing the tcs coming on for a brief second and the car getting squirmy going straight on the highway. and then of course last night, full blown trifecta while on the highway as well.

also, big shoutout to discoelk for hooking me up with some sweet parts from the designs supplied by the members on the forum. thanks to everyone for a great idea

[ugaexploder]

went for a little drive last night trying to get my car ready to pass emissions and after jumping on the highway for like 3 minutes, i get the “trifecta” lights; red brake, yellow tcs, abd yellow tps. car felt 100% normal the whole time, but regardless I still turn around to drive back home. Get to the gas station, turn off car, turn back on, all lights are gone.

I’ve been reading and it sounds like it could be anything from wheel speed sensors to a bad MK60 unit which is worst-case scenario I guess. I tried to run the ASC/DSC test on INPA and I can’t connect to any of the brake checks on through INPA. I have one of those DCAN cables with a switch, and it won’t run in either mode.

[ugaexploder]

had to reschedule the tint appt so the interior will stay out a little bit longer...at least 2 more weeks unfortunately. anyways, decided to go ahead and put on the euro mirrors. used heinz's method to just re-route the wires up toward to the top right.

[ugaexploder]

I used the little POR15 kit that comes with the degreaser, metal prep, and some rust inhibitor. The stuff has some weird consistency so it's hard to make it look really good with a brush, but hey, it's good enough for the girls I go with.

[ugaexploder]

Need to take car of some rust spots in the cargo area so I ordered the little POR kit with silver paint. Tried to get as much of the rust off, and now prepping with degreaser and the metal etcher to get ready for paint.