Cockroach Individual M3 6/28/2026 x5 or m3? PWR 55mm Rad

[samthejam]

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Despite leaving about 2.5 hours away from COTA, it's a an intimidating place and I have always made an excuse to not go. This time I didn't know I had a car that could take it, but man was it hard on the M3.


It was a good weekend and car got home in one piece.


Saturday it was running to 3/4 for water temp. So I guess it needs a rad. I have never seen this thing go over half on track before, it was only about 85F. I had heater on full blast and it was holding there. My dads car was always at half, I want to make some effort to get that temp gauge down for the 90+ degree track events.

The stupid sunroof panel from my dads old car kept falling out, coupled with me being worried about the gauge AND really struggling through turn 13-16 it was a bad time. My instructor experience was quite stressful. I couldn't break past a 2:38.

Luckily, we got rain. Which brought cooler temps for everything and I learn a lot quicker in the rain. So I was able to figure out what the car liked and the surface here isn't fucked like MSR so could practice dry line in the wet.


Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


This set me up for the next morning. I stayed in San Marco, so like a 45 min drive from the track.
After a decent night sleep, and the things I learned in the rain. My pace picked up significantly Sunday by 2-3 seconds average but with the cold temps in the morning I was able to see a 2:34 on the laptimer. Goal was a 2:35.

Which isn’t totally correct since the start finish was in the wrong spot but it’s still a 2:35 if you hand time it at regular start finish.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

With my pace having picked up my brakes were struggling. Pad started disappearing quite quickly. I will need to add cooling. The RF shock also Sunday was creating some really odd shake in the wheel when unloaded in long right handers as well as just making the car handle odd. So there goes my PFC 83s I really liked.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr




So I guess it's time for the old GC's to put in some service, use them until the blow as well.

Action Items for next time:
- Get COTA added to my Aim Solo
- figure out front shocks
- genuine OE rad, or maybe Koyo (research if they are good)
- Add Brake Ducts/Cooling (deflectors?)
- Drive better.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

[samthejam]

So I went to spectate Nascar at COTA this past weekend, since I'll be there next weekend remember how to get there and also enjoy Nascar.

I only really took videos of the nascar part so these are the only pics I have from that weekend really.
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Fairly uneventful, went and enjoyed that and helped my friend finish up his engine swap into his frs. First time working on a LS but we got it running that night didn't home until like 2am.

The only hiccup to note with the M3 was, the ABS light was coming and going. Could key cycle it and I'd have ABS again. Indicative of an ABS sensor.

Next morning I scanned it,
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Sure enough it is the LF sensor. So off to the yard I went. I was also able to find a better but still not correct passenger arm rest, spare GM5 and a depo rear tailight thing.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

You can change it without jacking the car up! AlSo I did that in a friends driveway, I overfilled the oil a hair when I did the change and he had a thing to suck the extra out. So I did both items there. His jacks weren't low car friendly but we made it work. The old sensor appears to be aftermarket it had no correct things to hold it down.

Next day Monday, I had the Monday off for some government paperwork I needed to take care of. So I got new tires mounted, the Montero didn't start so loaded them in the E28. Also got the alignment checked at another place because it was quicker, everything was exactly where it should be so they didn't charge me anything. It was nice to sanity check my alignment work on the other machine. Holy shit do tires make a difference. I knew the others were heat cycled out but man is it always such a change.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


Than I gave it a much deserved wash. I hate Tire Shine but the car wash applies it by default so whatever.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

[samthejam]

Another Update,

So I have still not been absolutely blown away with these ASTs, and I felt the RF was probably leaking a bit. So I took it all apart to confirm that as well as judge the condition of my old GCs. I also found one of the strut tower welds had recracked, but they weren't drilled. So not surprising.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Here are my findings for the front. The RF is definitely tired but not completely shot. It has about the same rebound return speed on multiple settings. I also marked the living fuck out of everything in case anything needs to be adjusted or serviced, there is less guessing.

The good news is when these ASTs do kick the bucket, the GCs I have use the same length struts I used to use in my homebuilt E28 coilovers. So the length is bascially the same as a 8610-1437 Koni. Which means I can put 8611-1259 DAs in and it looks like TC Kline is selling rear shocks indiv. So I could piece meal a set of Double Adjustable Coilovers. Which would be nice, I have been really wanting to get that knob for tuning purposes.

I lowered the front to where the GCs used to be and I believe this put the damper in a much happier part of its range. After this I have been much happier with them as far as tolerating them on the street. I am now at 6F,6R clicks rear.
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

I was itching to test car for COTA, and feel out the changes at a place I am comfortable with before going to a brand new track.So I impulsively decided I was gonna test it, I got some earl from the stealership and changed it. At this point these Direzzas have 7500 Street miles and 2 events on them. The rears are at the wear bars, and it was predicated to rain but we got lucky it didn't however track was very green as it had been raining for past week and it never got above 45 degrees. My Go Pro battery didn't last more than a session.

Breakfast of Champions
Test N toon by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

These two short videos should give you an idea of how it was driving.

Very sideways, very stiff. It used to be a car I'd describe anyone could get in and go fast. Now it is quick, but man you have to be quick and precise. Which is a fun challenge but it is dicey. After a couple sessions, I was able to match the cars pace the last time I had it out, so I haven't made it slower maybe even quicker but it takes a lot to extract that time and isn't as repeatable. I threw away a 46, messed up a section but I am happy with the low 47s.

Test N toon by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
First Session,


My friend with his S54 swapped wagon, we traded cars for a session. I was able to get 1:53 out of it, just PFC 11s. Indyhawk fronts, random rear tires and Eibach Coilovers.

Test N toon by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

After removing a click from the rear and a couple sessions.
Test N toon by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Odo hit 120k on track
Test N toon by Sam DaJam, on Flickr



Shitting my pants on way home, I used to drive my E28 on the baldest 200tw tires you can imagine but this E46 M3 just hydroplanes all of it.
Test N toon by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

I also checked the Alignment, with toe plates just to get numbers. It's now at zero toe in the front and has like 4mm of rear toe in.

I weighed it, this is with 3/4 of a tank.
Test N toon by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Test N toon by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

The cross weight when I sat in it came out to exactly 50.0%

but yea, manual swap and rack no complaints. Unsure if I'm happy with the ASTs we'll see how they do at COTA. Displeased it is not as easy to drive, but it is so sharp and reactive now when it is not bumpy and I love that it just is hard to be repeatable but with more seat time I could master it I think.

Despite my e28 have everything working an being quieter, I have been gravitating towards this car. Use it everyday for work and on the weekends. Which is very strange, as my E28 no other car had been able to match it in terms of enjoyment for me. It would appear that I have built V2.0 of that car.

Test N toon by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

[Loopyspec]

Love the progress and good job on the manual swap! I'm on the fence of doing myself.

[samthejam]

Got the new ZHP wheel in and it came out much better than the last one I had in my free30i. I mainly just used warm water and a toothbrush this time instead of the Sonax cleaner and a microfiber. I tried some regular home soaps, dish soap and hand soap didn't seem to make too much of a difference. Just a lot of light brushing and warm water.

Also got the shift knob wired up using a pigtail from a parts car.

Maybe one day I can find a good used ZCp/comp wheel, but for now this will do.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

[samthejam]

[samthejam]

So I was able to get the manual swap done. Total time was about 11 hours. I was able to do the swap and drive to Huntsville on the same day.
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
The biggest complications were the bellhousing bolts, welding the shifter bracket, and the clutch soft line.

- I am familiar with how fun bellhousing bolts are. However, even with all the extensions, and wobblies I could not get to the 3 bellhousing bolts. My father does not have a pole jack, so couldnt jack engine up. What I did was lower the rear subframe bolts and that was enough to get it done. I was not very happy to do it that way but it was the ticket, I need to buy him a pole jack.

- The shifter bracket, jesus christ the sound deadning they have sprayed on compared to the 2001 M3 Vert I pulled my bracket from. Not only was it an absolute nightmare to clean, the carpet was not catching on fire. It was that stupid sound deadning and it was awkward to get in there. I was able to get the rear welded in and if I am being honest there are war crimes holding it up. However it doesn't seem to flex at all when shifting, so we'll see if it fatigues it appears solid.

- The clutch soft line, I am an idiot and didn't get a new one. Of course I used a used one, which is fine the line is fine. I got a new OE hardline. However I am pretty sure the soft line is from Non M, it is stretched out. Not pinched but it is under tension. So I need to order a M3 one, I am assuming they are different. As of writing this I have no checked the part number, if they are not different well shit.

I went to look it up, https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...774267#fitment they are the same so the monkey that installed it needs to check orientation of the hardline or something else


So that is something I need to look into.

- The coding was fun, as my NCS Expert was full german not just the job function options all of it. Even the buttons on the bottom, so for instance "process ECU" was in German. I did a good job studying this before I did it, and had not planned for that. That just made it scary but I had screenshots of the buttons in English and was just heavily double checking what I was doing as I didn't want to process all modules.


I drove home from Huntsville that night no issues.


Some other fun notes I was able to fix some issues while the plenum were on. Half the hose clamps were on incorrectly, they were around what I believe is an adjustment for the ITBS on the bottom right hand corner and not fully aropund the boots. I was able to find out why my oil pressure warning light has never worked. Someone had unplugged it. One of the Idle control valve hoses was zipties intead of hose clamped. The rearmost lower plenum hose I believe was just plain disconnected. I also saw it has a parts store starter in there.



Next day I went to Austin to get the remaining ZCP trim I bought from him as well as the ZHP trim. I was not expecting to make that trip as I expected the swap to take longer, but I wanted to shake the car down and a 6 hour roundtrip should give me an idea.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Thank You George! I got home at 10 pm, I was able to clean the Alcantara wheel fairly okay. It'll do. Very happy to have been able to have the full zcp trim.
My friend Ale went as well in his E36 and he was able to get the sport button for his S54 E46 Wagon, the car has been done for awhile but he has been looking for the correct heated seats, premium sound, non vert M3 button panel.

[samthejam]

I was able to get my free Recaro Profi in that came with my SSRs, the seat didn't come with the cusions but I was able to find a pair on Ebay of recovered cushions that someone was selling off their seats. Good enough for now. I also went with a manual rail on this side.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

I was also able to resolve my communication errors with various modules. I needed to solder the pins in my OBD Cable. So I am much more confident in the coding this weekend for the manual swap.


Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

[bigjae46]

Yes the plan is to weld it and try and make the carpet not catch on fire. I think I am going to just remove the center console and cut accordingly. Then just place that piece of carpet back in.

Might work...only one way to find out...but you can put a thick slab of steel on the interior side of the weld and cover it with a fiberglass tarp. The steel should absorb a lot of the heat and fiberglass won't melt. Or have someone inside of the car hold the carpet up for awhile.

[samthejam]

oding Vehicle Order
Depending on what year your car is, this part is slightly different. I'll use 50'sKid's video as a reference, as this is what helped me successfully remove the option code from my car. The newer cars have the "vehicle order", and older cars have a "zcs number". Both of these store the list of optional and base equipment for the car. If your car came with heated seats, then this is depicted in your vehicle order or ZCS. This is used by the whole car to determine how the computers behave, and what their default programming is. If your car was produced before 08/2001, then you have the ZCS format, otherwise, your car is coded through the "FA". You can find the production date of your car by going to RealOEM and entering the last 7 digits of your VIN.

Start by loading the expert profile in NCS expert. Click file -> Choose Profile. Pick the Expert mode profile (sometimes referred to Expertmodus or something along those lines)

Click VIN/ZCS/FA, then ZCS/FA f. ECU. Choose E46, then either the AKMB or ALSZ, unless your car uses ZCS, in which case you read the EWS or KMB. This will read your cars current FA (Vehicle Order) or ZCS from whichever module you select.


For Cars newer than 08/2001
Once this is done, click "Enter FA", select E46 and then enter your vin. If it's partially wrong, don't worry about that because it's meant to be. Only the last 7 characters should be correct. Hit OK and you should see this window.

Your option codes will be very different as this image is from a 325. Now, scroll down in the list until you find the "$793" code, select it and then press delete on your keyboard. This should remove the SMG option code from the list. (skip down to "After adjusting the vehicle option code list")


For Cars older than 08/2001
Now, click on "Enter ZCS", select E46 and enter your vin. If it's partially wrong, don't worry about that because it's meant to be. Only the last 7 characters should be correct. Hit OK and you should see this window.

You only need to touch the SA section, and start by removing the very last digit from the number. Now, subtract 8 from what is now the last digit, such that if your number is 0-8, you replace it with 0. 9→1, A→2, B→3, C→4, D→5, E→6, F→7. Once this is done, make sure to have "Calculate Checksum" checked before clicking ok.


After adjusting the vehicle option code list
Now click ok > Back > Process ECU > AKMB (or just KMB for older cars). Once you've done this, you should see the "JOBNAME" is set to "SG_CODIEREN". Click change Job, then select "FA_WRITE" (or "ZCS_SCHRIEBEN"), which will code the new FA (ZCS) to your module. Now click Execute Job, and you should eventually see "Job ended". This indicates that the write was successful. If your car is older, click "change ecu" and select the EWS, and click execute job. Otherwise, click "change ecu", select the ALSZ, and repeat this FA_WRITE by clicking execute job.

Now that your new vehicle order is written to your car, you can reprogram each individual module to their default programming, which is determined by the vehicle order. Since your vehicle order is now different, that also means that your default programming is different. Using the "expert" profile in NCS, repeat the same steps to read your FA from the AKMB or ALSZ (or KMB/EWS), then Back > Process ECU > AKMB (or KMB). Now you should see the "SG_CODIEREN" as the JOBNAME. Click execute job to write the default coding to the module. Repeat this job on the AKMB (KMB), MK60 (DSC), and the ALSZ (EWS). At this point, restart the car and you should see that everything is working properly, but you'll still have a gear light on the dash.

Open INPA, and navigate to the DME, clear error codes and adaptations, then read them back. Also clear codes for the Instrument Cluster, EWS (vehicle immobilization), and the MK60 (assuming you have a later model). Once these error codes are cleared, you should be able to turn the car off and back on again and see no gear light on the dash. If you still have dash lights, go around to different modules and clear their errors and see if they return. Now you should be all set!

With this, your car should be completely coded with manual software, and there is practically no difference between this and the default software on a manual car (other than the modifications you may have made). Now when scanned, your car will show itself as a manual, and you won't get any SMG-related error codes that might cause the car to enter limp mode.


Credit to p0lar and terraphantm, as their work on these cars is what provided me the ability to put all of this together. I referenced their posts a lot, and this post is essentially a condensation of their work. I just put it together in a hopefully comprehensive fashion to allow anyone to reprogram their car. If any of this info is wrong or you have a suggestion on an improvement I can make, let me know so I can correct it.

[samthejam]

I would be most concerned about the shift arm bushing bracket. No issue using a used one like you are but with the rear tab mostly cut off I think you are going to struggle to fasten it securely. I would consider getting another one unless you are going to weld it and if so pull the carpet so its doesn't catch on fire.

Yes the plan is to weld it and try and make the carpet not catch on fire. I think I am going to just remove the center console and cut accordingly. Then just place that piece of carpet back in.

[George Hill]

I would be most concerned about the shift arm bushing bracket. No issue using a used one like you are but with the rear tab mostly cut off I think you are going to struggle to fasten it securely. I would consider getting another one unless you are going to weld it and if so pull the carpet so its doesn't catch on fire.

[samthejam]

1st. For people who don't know anything about coding: The central coding key (ZCS) or vehicle order(FA or VO) is like the DNA of the car. The build date, basic equipment and optional equipment are listed inside here. It's saved redundant in 2 modules and has one simple funcion.. The computer that's going to program or code the module(s) reads it and then determines how to deploy the software/coding to suit that specific car.\

2nd. Because of the vehicle order only being changed for manual transmission, you should only code the relevant module(s) after you write the FA to the modules storing it, so in this case you should have only coded the kombi (AKMB) instead of the whole car and you would be all set. Processing the whole car can be quite dangerous. As failure to communicate with a module during coding actually can destroy a module.. ask me how i know Because of that you should only code modules that actually need to be coded and leave the rest alone, to reduce the risk

[samthejam]

or example changing Vehicle Order (VO), and adding/removing options from Modules. NCS Dummy helps understand what the options mean in English.

Steps:

1) Using NCSExpert, Remove $793 (this is the SMG option by the way) from the Vehicle Order in AKMB and ALSZ modules then write the new Vehicle Order back to the AKMB and ALSZ modules.

2) Modules to Code With NCSExpert, note in brackets is the NCSExpert name for the modules)
- DSC (DSC), change from SMG to Manual
- Instrument Cluster (AKMB) removing any SMG options, then adding any manual options that are available to select
- Immobiliser (AEWS) - remove press Brake Pedal To Start option
-
NOTE: As stated above, NCSDummy makes doing the changes above much easier

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FiBr1h9j0bU

[samthejam]

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Ladies and Gentleman, I believe it is time...

Almost everything here is used, so that's fun but why new when used will do. I refreshed the shift bushings with OE at least.



I believe I have everything, I did the GPS delete by manually editing the bin file. Than Jay popped it into his Ecuworx for me and did the rest of the manual changes needed.

I modified the .xdf for this and here is some notes I have as the ones in the manual swap thread were kinda confusing.

MSS54HP .bin Modications:

1) Modify K_SKRAFTS_CONTROL to 0x02

• Location: 0x4028
• Edit: Set to 0x02 → 2 (default is 0x01 → 1)
• Purpose:
  • The DME currently treats the clutch sensor and Gear Identification Sensor as one, since they are wired in serial.
  • This setting aligns the behavior with how the Z3M is wired, where the clutch switch is directly connected to the DME.
  • With this change, the DME will recognize that the circuit can still be closed even when the car is in neutral with the engine running.

2) Modify K_S_GANG_LL_ED to 0xFFFF

• Location: 0x5952 on 2001/2701
• Edit: Set to 0xFFFF → 65535 (default is 0x0032 → 50)
• Purpose:
  • This prevents the DME from throwing an error when the car is idling with the clutch engaged (up).
  • It essentially adjusts the logic for idle behavior, ensuring that the ECU does not falsely detect an issue when the car is stationary.

3) K_MD_MIN_VERH_KRAFTS

• Purpose: This parameter defines the minimum torque threshold required for certain powertrain functions to be active.
• Edit: Set to 0xA0 → 160 (default is 0x80 → 128)
• Location:
  • 0x67E0 on MSS54
  • 0x88A2 on MSS54HP
• Default Values:
  • US cars: 0x80 (128 in decimal)
  • Euro cars: 0xA0 (160 in decimal)

The plan is to throw it all in this weekend, flash it and see what happens. I am most nervous about removing the Plenum as I haven't done that yet.