Cockroach Individual M3 6/28/2026 x5 or m3? PWR 55mm Rad

[karter16]

M3 has been used for house stuff,
Can transport of 10ft PVC pipe
Can move tables

Honestly, my friends would joke that the E46 is always *just* big enough for whatever it is that you want to transport hahaha

[samthejam]

M3 has been used for house stuff,
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Can transport of 10ft PVC pipe
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Can move tables
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

But we finally got the house moved in sort've. So I wanted to start using the shop and buying tools so I can do stop doing things out of a toll roll bag or borrowing a shop.

I fixed the horn button, that got messed up fiddling with steering wheel hub at Road Atlanta. Checked the freon.
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


And the project I was very excited on,
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

I found one of these guys:

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-302-e46-m3-pwr-55mm-aluminum-radiator-upgrade/

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Old Forum copy and pasta said it fit with the stock fan clutch so we gave it ago.

PWR 5966

+ 25% additional cooling capacity
+ all aluminum construction - no plastic!
+ direct bolt-in alternative, even with factory fan shroud, fan, A/C condenser, oil cooler, and even supercharger kits and accessories*
+ proven under intense endurance racing conditions

$1,029 NEW.

The PWR all aluminum radiator is known throughout the world for its superior cooling capabilities. PWR products and technology are used in a multitude of racing classes ranging from F1, BTCC, WRC, Grand-Am, SCCA, Australian V8 Supercars, and NASCAR. Turner Motorsport uses PWR components in our E46 M3, E92 M3, and M3 GT racecars. PWR’s cutting edge design utilizes aircraft-grade aluminum and an oven brazed bonding technology to assure trouble free and reliable cooling even in the harshest conditions. Other radiators use a standard epoxy-seal assembly which can eventually become fatigued and crack due to constant heat cycling and vibration. The PWR radiators used in our own racecars offer an additional 25% cooling capacity, direct bolt-on fitment for E46 M3 (no modifications required to front core support) and precision-machined and TIG-welded end tanks. Each radiator is pressure-tested during manufacturing. We have used this radiator with several E46 M3 builds in our shop, including using the Turner oil cooler kit and AA/HKS Stage 2 supercharger packages (intercooler + s/c oil cooler). Professional installation under these circumstances is strongly advised to ensure the correct fitment and routing of these components. The PWR radiator for the E46 M3 proved to be a vital component to the TMS Racing effort and can easily carry over to your race car or street car for years of reliability.


This is a giant 55mm single pass radiator. I had 4 to compare too total. Bimmerworld C&R, Koyo, 2016 Date code Modine E46 M3 and this PWR. The C&R while looking the most complex, highest fin density and being a triple pass wasn't something I want to try yet as triple passes don't seem to work well at low air speeds. I still put many many street mile on this so the PWR was what I was after.

Here are my measurements of core volume, which is a very crude way to compare. However the fin count, and tube counts didn't look very different. C&R was only one that really too out.


I also had a CSF E36 M3 rad to compare to out of a s54 swapped car for shits n giggles.

Anyways this PWR is no joke, and it was a very very tight squeeze but it fit. I have some Morehead mounts I'll install for the engine. As well as some crude zipties to make sure the rad doesn't get closer to the fan at all.

The aftermarket upper rad hose started leaking so I bought OE top hose and a new expansion tank. I had a used one to use in interim to wait for the Genuine BMW stuff.
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


That came in:
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Highway was 176F with OBC saying that ambient and A/C on. A/C off is like 171-172.
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


Stopped traffic it was sitting at 194. Very happy with that. Now this doesn't say fuck all about if it will fix my car running hotter than I'd like in 85F + at Road Atlanta, but definitely running cooler on the street than before. Why I put in the bigger rad

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Bluebus and header update next
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

[bigjae46]

Congrats on the new house!

The tire chunked because of heat, run less toe in especially if you add more camber. I run about 7' of toe in each side in the rear. This is about half compared to stock. This still keeps the rear end stable under dynamic camber changes and reduces the inner wear on the rear even with -3.25 degrees of camber,

[samthejam]

I wish, I had gone with some fresh Bridgestones and some new front pads but the rear PFC 11s I liked a lot more. We are moving into the new house now so everything is crazy, and I need to really catch up on my E28 since I think that will be my main commuter car again. So this will probably be mothballed but at least in a non moist garage now.

[samthejam]

1:38.52 Road Atlanta, didn't beat my PB but tried to give it my all to match my used A052 time with these used RS4s.

Why are my RS4s chunking on the rear inside?

Really fun footage of Jay and I doing some back and forth.

[samthejam]

Finally got the the the pictures from the track photographer. So can finish the trip update. Weekend went great! I felt pretty grip limited on the RS4s and it took me awhile to find pressures I liked. Which ends up being 35 psi hot. Which is a bit high, but when I go lower rear gets looser and feels squirmer. Super sensitivity to how smooth inputs are. Looking at the photos, I think I need more rear camber.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Jay and I finally got to have a really good back and forth session together.
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


But anyways, no real problems. Car still goes to 3/4 when above 85F here, and I always back off. Anything lower than that can go all day.


Misc: Trip pics
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


Drive home was no issues, just forgot to air up the tires. My phone is all fucked up so I have no Aux, still haven't got bluebus. So was just exploring all the FM stations.


This is only 2 weekends for me on the RS4s, they have one more shakedown before I would not want to use them again I think

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

[samthejam]

Howdy from Georgia!

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

So we did a group Dyno here in Atlanta, with Epic Motorsports.

I just wanted to double check the AFRs, all looks good.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

I also did the steering coupler, and finally got some brand used floating rear rotors in there with new PFC 11 pads.

I can now say all 4 of the cheap drilled and slotted rotors I got for free cracked and failed in the same way. Glad I replaced this before this weekend. One day I'll find ZCP calipers.


Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

[Bry5on]

Would a caliper work? One end needs to be flat against the edge of the rim.

Yes but vernier calipers will give you the .1mm accuracy you need without needing a digital or dial tool if that’s what you’re after. I figure that’s probably more reliable to toss in your track setup

[bigjae46]

Vernier calipers

Would a caliper work? One end needs to be flat against the edge of the rim.

[Bry5on]

Using the steering angle reading makes life much easier and, IMO, the secret to my outstanding alignments. I would love to get something that can read tenths of a millimeter from the string to the wheel...I'm sure something exists.

Vernier calipers

[bigjae46]

Using the steering angle reading makes life much easier and, IMO, the secret to my outstanding alignments. I would love to get something that can read tenths of a millimeter from the string to the wheel...I'm sure something exists.

[samthejam]

Leaving to Atlanta this evening

[samthejam]

Relevant docs for Turner Monoballs installation:

https://nam3forum.com/forums/filedata/fetch?id=38673

http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.co m/013276TMS~A_INS.pdf


I found the best method ended up being painting the control arm for the high spot. Ugly but it was much more efficient for finding the interference. Did another string alignment and like using the steering angle sensor output to keep it more consistent per bigjae46 advice


Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

[samthejam]

I went ahead and did the Turner monoballs. Man that sucked to install on the driver side. I had to file the control arm to make sure the press fit was too severe and cause binding. Probably 3-4 hours on that side of filing, and hammering it on and off.

Definitely less NVH than the Bimmerworld TrackCABs and just seems to track the road better, reminds me of my E28 now which is all on sphericals everywhere for front and rear.

[samthejam]

They key to alignments is repeatability. The car has to be rolled to settle the suspension so if the car is sitting on wheel cribs, the cribs must be long enough to roll the tire one full rotation. Must do that even when using turn plates. That will be why you get a significantly different reading.

The wheel cribs should be laser leveled to be close. The closer to level...the alignment will be more repeatable.

I find that zeroing the SZL in a scan tool or INPA massively improves repeatability. Even if the wheel looks straight, probably is off enough to skew the toe reading. AND...when most center the wheel they are sticking their head through the window and not sitting in the driver's seat which should have ballast in it anyway using the BMW spec. Ballast in both front seats.

Great point on using the steering angle sensor. I'll add that to the routine. I love that. I make it a point to crawl into the car to put it straight head, but it still has human error.

The tables we use our laser leveled, and I trust the person helping me as our rear measurement was perfect. We always raise and lower the car handbrake off in neutral on the stands and repeat the measurements twice and it is usually very consistent but we are not getting the roll. The stands/tables have large casters that allow it to settle as needed, but it isn't as good as a full roll.

Car is now tracking straight again like when I headed to track Saturday.