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E46 M3 journal - PF02 XLZ (Titan silver, SMG slicktop coupe)

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    E46 M3 journal - PF02 XLZ (Titan silver, SMG slicktop coupe)

    Recently purchased this M3 & figured I'd create a thread to form a bit of a build journal and a nice way of tracking costs, any jobs no matter how big/small, I plan on updating the thread with a cost and will check in after a while and run the totals up.

    I've always owned BMWs in the past; E90 & F32, currently have an E30 as a long term resto too & look after friends/families beemers so fairly well equipped in terms of experience & tooling to do all but the most major jobs myself (don't do any bodywork/welding, though).

    A bit about the car:

    Titan silver slicktop
    SMG
    101k miles
    18" Style 67s (& practically new PS4s)

    Spec wise:
    16:9 Nav & 6CD changer
    Black heated leather
    Rear sunblind
    Various other things I can't recall...


    Really clean on all fronts (bodywork, underside & interior) but especially clean on the outside although I expected nothing less given the previous owner was a detailer. Not immune to the usual E46 problems though, there's some bubbling on one of the front wings that'll be seen to shortly.

    Absolutely stacks of paperwork with receipts going back 20 years & loads of service history with very few gaps; seems a really well looked after car by each of its 4 previous owners. Records have been meticulously kept & organized by the previous custodians and will continue as such under my ownership.

    Quite a bit of history at Redish Motorsports. Various services, large chunks of miscellaneous jobs & most importantly, had a VANOS rebuild, rod bearings & inspection 2 at Redish during 2020/21 at 95-97k, covering only 3k since then. Reconned box & SMG pump fitted a few years ago too.

    A deal was done & I drove away beyond elated.
    Last edited by PF02XLZ; 04-29-2025, 03:58 AM.

    #2
    First job as with all new-to-me cars, an oil change (not needed, but...)

    Grabbed a Mahle service kit inc a set of NGK plugs and a few gallons of Castrols finest. It last had an oil change 4k ago as part of the Redish work - 5k will be the OCI for this car going forwards as that'll be close to my yearly mileage.

    The sparkplugs, intake & pollen filter were changed as part of the inspection 2 so I'll leave them & set them aside and the next oil change can be a full service.

    Cost: £160 (with plugs, pollen & intake filter left over)
    Last edited by PF02XLZ; 04-29-2025, 05:00 AM.

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      #3
      Couple of small jobs today;

      New emblems & wing indicators. These really set the car off as the existing badges were a bit crusty. The original wing repeaters had started to fade & I wanted them looking all crystal-like and shiny again especially given the previous owner had fitted new rear clusters and headlight lenses - they were absolutely spotless, looked showroom fresh & the rest needs match..


      Cost: £186

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        #4
        Bye bye, K&N...

        Just a personal opinion, but I'm not a fan of K&N (or most other aftermarket filters) that the previous owner installed. I don't believe they offer better filtration than a regularly changed OE paper filter, the whole oiling process is a faff and can potentially gum up MAF/AFMs etc if overly heavy with the application.


        Swapped out for a Mahle filter, the outgoing filter did not look to have been cleaned for a long time - it was covered in crap.


        Cost: Free (filter accounted for previously)
        Last edited by PF02XLZ; 04-29-2025, 05:59 AM.

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          #5
          Front struts...

          Most of the suspension still seems original, so I am slowly working my way through refreshing everything.
          Ordered and fitted the following:

          B4 struts
          Upper perch bearing
          OEM bump stops
          Strut covers
          Pinch bolts & other hardware

          I did intend on changing the top mounts, but existing ones still seem compliant & new ones aren't available aftermarket - an enquiry to BMW and they're NLA pending a re-design & re-issue, some time around 2027!


          Car drives much better now, rears up next.

          Cost: £350

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            #6
            Rear struts...

            Ordered & fitted the following:
            B4 struts
            Bilstein top mounts
            Z3 reinforcement plates
            OEM bump stops
            Shock covers
            New hardware (lower bolt, upper nuts etc)


            I plan on a full drive-line refresh (anything rubber or suspension related) but budget and time dictates I do this in stages as and when funds & free time comes available.

            Old shock decided to empty its oil when I tested it off the car, no visible leaks when it was fitted though. Odd wear pattern on the shaft, looks like some crud had gotten in-between it and the bump stop, and had worn it down over time, precariously thin & pitted.

            Total cost: £260
            Attached Files
            Last edited by PF02XLZ; 04-29-2025, 05:55 AM.

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              #7
              Rear view mirror...

              Rear view crystal had almost entirely failed, leaving a bright strip along the top but the rest of the mirror was permanently dimmed. This car had previously been driven very little & stored in the garage. With the heat of summer I didn't want to put this job off any longer and risk it leaking & damaging the trim.

              Straightforward job, mirror removed & soldered the new one on the bench. Getting the mirror casing apart & back together without breaking any clips is by far the worst aspect of this job.

              Cost: £80

              Attached Files

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                #8
                A digital day..


                The laptop, KDCAN cable and PSU came out today. Flashed the DME with the CSL rev matching & inertia tune for the SMG, as well as the v255 firmware so everything is talking together currently as per a factory CSL setup.

                What a difference this has made - I think had this been setup from factory, the usual SMG slating would be practically none-existent.

                By far the best upgrade & money spent on any car I've had to date. For those familiar with XHP/ZF8s, the before/after is even greater on this - throughly recommended & relatively straightforward to do. Auto mode is genuinely useable now, no hint of the car throwing in a shift midway through a corner now...


                Cost: £20 (Ecuworx license)

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                  #9
                  Wing crust...

                  As mentioned prior, the only thing now letting the outward appearance down was a dent & some bubbling on the front wing. Inevitable wing crust has started showing since the cars now in use & driven often. Replacement wings are budgeted for in the future but for now I've just had a spot repair carried out - not expecting it to last forever as rust repairs never do, but if it sees me through until later in the year I'll be happy & the guys that carried the work out offer a no quibble lifetime guarantee, so new wings might be further away than initially thought.


                  Really happy with the paint match & overall finish especially considering I'd asked for it done cheap assuming there'd be no warranty/come back due to the nature of the repair, courtesy of Bentley Designs/Bay2Autos in Normanton, Wakefield.


                  Cost: £200

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                    #10
                    Undertray...

                    Noticed the NSR undertray had broken and was flapping about a bit. Dropped the brace & replaced it along with the body nuts/plastic rivets.

                    Cost: £65


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                      #11
                      Another small job day...


                      The alarm has gone off a few times when the car has been sat. I assumed it was the bonnet switch as it usually is with E46s... There was some dielectric grease on the switch connector, so someone's been here before. Leaving it unplugged proved me right as the alarm didn't go off after unplugging and a new one arrived shortly after from Cotswolds BMW - fitted and no issues since.

                      Cost: £35
                      Last edited by PF02XLZ; 04-29-2025, 06:14 AM.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Disaster struck already!


                        During a bit of a spirited drive, the traction & brake warning light lit up. Scanning the car roadside, it had thrown an error for brake pressure implausibility. Upon a walk around of the car, there were some splatter marks up the passenger rear quarter.

                        I'd noticed the brake lines on this side didn't look too healthy on previous inspection and it was on the to-do list, but they were dry & only looked to have a bit of surface crust on them at the time.

                        Limped it home, washed the spots of brake fluid off the panel & got the car in the air.

                        It was the driver's side rear caliper feed, splitting near fuel tank on the passenger side. Seems this is a common place for them to rot due to sitting exposed, have repaired these on E46s before in the same spot, and it's had a previous repair for the passenger caliper in the same area. That previous repair was weeping at the union too, but nothing major & nipping it up resolved that.

                        I think this would've taken a while to show up under regular driving unless flagged on MOTs. With the car on axle stands at home, I had to really stamp on the brakes to get the line to visibly weep and there was some nasty corrosion after I'd scraped away the brake line coating & crud.

                        There's a factory fitted join/union not too far away but it was seized solid, so I ended up cutting it out & running a new line from the caliper to the fuel tank area, splicing it into the clean steel line further upstream that was better protected from the elements. Not my finest repair but it'll keep the MOT inspector happy & it's the same amount of joints as per factory, just in a different location. I'll be renewing all brake/fuel hardlines in the future when the subframe gets dropped, and doing a proper job of it in complete factory lengths, this will suffice for now & I've complete faith in the repair (proper twin flared union used, no dodgy compression fittings here...)

                        Cost: Free (had 3/16ths kunifer, unions & fluid on the shelf courtesy of an E30 restoration).

                        Picture is of the burst line (and a previous repair) - not the current state!

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