Obioban's 2005 IR/IR Coupe

[heinzboehmer]

Been a while since I got to do a mod on the M3. Been busy with house construction/e60 M5/never ending Land Cruiser refresh.

Anyway, made my trunk a bit less practical.

Any noticeable difference?

Have been curious about rear bracing in conjunction with the Slon wall. Specifically this style of bracing: https://dmgautosport.net/products/e46-co-op

But the rear shock towers don't see anywhere near as much load as the front ones and the Slon wall already does a lot, so I haven't pursued it.

[Obioban]

Thanks. Project incoming.

You do need a lithium specific charger. I've been using this one:

https://www.ctek.com/us/battery-chargers-12v-24v/vehicle-type/lithium-us?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22191417299&gbraid=0AAAAAC2lyiW5-q2Y9_fgEmet3ow26Ff16&gclid=CjwKCAjw1N7NBhAoEiwAcPchp8jfgzsIqt-THA7MNJMcr30XmoII6Rxn84Ni3qwhTUe5EbSj6m03WBoCmwIQAvD_BwE

[discoelk]

Thanks. Project incoming.

[Obioban]

I'd like to duplicate that mod but I'm curious how small I could go with the battery. What battery are you using? Does it need a tender for a car driven once or twice a week?

It seems like an easy and fairly cheap weight loss/$ ratio with the cable delete.

It’s a braile GU1R— lithium battery that’s 5.X lbs.

I’ve been running it (same one) for 11 years now. I plug in the car if I won’t be driving it for >2 weeks. Never had an issue of any sort.

In terms of wiring, used the wiring from 4 cylinder e46s, that have the battery there stock.

[discoelk]

I'd like to duplicate that mod but I'm curious how small I could go with the battery. What battery are you using? Does it need a tender for a car driven once or twice a week?

It seems like an easy and fairly cheap weight loss/$ ratio with the cable delete.

[Obioban]

Here you go 332


Obioban I searched everywhere for what you did exclusively for the battery mod, and remember you posted it once but I can’t find it. Any chance you remember the part numbers and stuff? Thanks!

I made them.

[Obioban]

Been a while since I got to do a mod on the M3. Been busy with house construction/e60 M5/never ending Land Cruiser refresh.

Anyway, made my trunk a bit less practical.

[Cronenberged]

Here you go 332


Obioban I searched everywhere for what you did exclusively for the battery mod, and remember you posted it once but I can’t find it. Any chance you remember the part numbers and stuff? Thanks!

[332]

Not all of these pictures are loading for me, I'm interested in the battery solution you have. I'm cutting out my spare tire tub (e46 sedan) and battery tray. If you could reupload those pictures or drop me a DM with them. Thanks

[Obioban]

This needs to be on a t-shirt, printed and framed, or something. The perfect description of an affliction we all share to some degree. You have to cut yourself off at some point right? But a month later something will brake that would have otherwise been replaced.

I drew the line at rod bearings, even though I was staring right at them and it went against my every instinct not to replace them
(on an engine that people have driven over 1,000,000 miles on without replacing them)

[Bimma360]

Land Cruiser is rolling over 200,000 miles. To keep her doing the Land Cruiser thing (being reliable), I deemed it time to do timing belt for a 2nd time (first time done by previous owner, at the dealer).
Since I'm doing the timing belt, figured I'd do coils/plugs/valve cover gaskets/tensioners/idlers/injectors/VVT solenoids. Oh, and because I'm a scared BMW owner, also the entire cooling system (rad, thermostat, water pump, fan clutch, rubber pipes).

Anyway, I get all the front end stuff off and, after I remove the timing belt, remove the bolt that secure the timing belt tensioner (replacing that while in there).
... and metal threads come out with the bolt.

Screw in the new one and it strips at ~3 ft lbs. Neat.

I assume the next step is going to be drill/tap/timesert, but then realize the tensioner mount bolt is screwed into the oil pump. And. drilling/tapping it will deposit metal shavings into the engine, so that's out.

Alright, so at this point I've decided to replace the oil pump. But, to replace the oil pump you must drop the oil pans.
... and dropping the oil pans requires either removing the engine from the truck, or dropping the differential.

I've been wanting to rebuild the front axles anyway, so I decide to pull the front diff. To remove the axles, you have to unbolt the font control arms from the spindle, to create some clearance.

... the bushings/bearings in the front controls arms are original/200,000 mile oil, so, would be silly to put those parts back in. But, if I'm replacing them, I'm going to need an alignment. So, I might as well replace everything in the front. Cue upper control arm, lower control arm, chassis bushing, tie rods, end links, sway bar bushings, steering rack mounts, etc. Oh, and doing diff mounts since it's out.

... but oh no, if I'm doing an alignment, I might as well refresh the rear end as well. Cue rear control arms, rear panhard bar, rear sway mounts, rear tie rods.

Thusly, because of a timing belt job, I'm replacing rear axle control arms "while I'm in there".

Mid way through this project. Taking over my life, currently. And, because everything is original at 200,000 miles, it's not super happy to come off. Full bottle of penetrating oil into the project. The final step each day is spraying down the nuts/bolts I'll be removing the next day :

This needs to be on a t-shirt, printed and framed, or something. The perfect description of an affliction we all share to some degree. You have to cut yourself off at some point right? But a month later something will brake that would have otherwise been replaced.

[Flow]

Cue the « well that escalated quickly » meme !
Good luck, you'll have a brand new truck after that.

[0-60motorsports]

Land Cruiser is rolling over 200,000 miles. To keep her doing the Land Cruiser thing (being reliable), I deemed it time to do timing belt for a 2nd time (first time done by previous owner, at the dealer).
Since I'm doing the timing belt, figured I'd do coils/plugs/valve cover gaskets/tensioners/idlers/injectors/VVT solenoids. Oh, and because I'm a scared BMW owner, also the entire cooling system (rad, thermostat, water pump, fan clutch, rubber pipes).

Anyway, I get all the front end stuff off and, after I remove the timing belt, remove the bolt that secure the timing belt tensioner (replacing that while in there).
... and metal threads come out with the bolt.

Screw in the new one and it strips at ~3 ft lbs. Neat.

I assume the next step is going to be drill/tap/timesert, but then realize the tensioner mount bolt is screwed into the oil pump. And. drilling/tapping it will deposit metal shavings into the engine, so that's out.

Alright, so at this point I've decided to replace the oil pump. But, to replace the oil pump you must drop the oil pans.
... and dropping the oil pans requires either removing the engine from the truck, or dropping the differential.

I've been wanting to rebuild the front axles anyway, so I decide to pull the front diff. To remove the axles, you have to unbolt the font control arms from the spindle, to create some clearance.

... the bushings/bearings in the front controls arms are original/200,000 mile oil, so, would be silly to put those parts back in. But, if I'm replacing them, I'm going to need an alignment. So, I might as well replace everything in the front. Cue upper control arm, lower control arm, chassis bushing, tie rods, end links, sway bar bushings, steering rack mounts, etc. Oh, and doing diff mounts since it's out.

... but oh no, if I'm doing an alignment, I might as well refresh the rear end as well. Cue rear control arms, rear panhard bar, rear sway mounts, rear tie rods.

Thusly, because of a timing belt job, I'm replacing rear axle control arms "while I'm in there".

Mid way through this project. Taking over my life, currently. And, because everything is original at 200,000 miles, it's not super happy to come off. Full bottle of penetrating oil into the project. The final step each day is spraying down the nuts/bolts I'll be removing the next day :

Thats crazy! Good luck.

[Obioban]

Land Cruiser is rolling over 200,000 miles. To keep her doing the Land Cruiser thing (being reliable), I deemed it time to do timing belt for a 2nd time (first time done by previous owner, at the dealer).
Since I'm doing the timing belt, figured I'd do coils/plugs/valve cover gaskets/tensioners/idlers/injectors/VVT solenoids. Oh, and because I'm a scared BMW owner, also the entire cooling system (rad, thermostat, water pump, fan clutch, rubber pipes).

Anyway, I get all the front end stuff off and, after I remove the timing belt, remove the bolt that secure the timing belt tensioner (replacing that while in there).
... and metal threads come out with the bolt.

Screw in the new one and it strips at ~3 ft lbs. Neat.

I assume the next step is going to be drill/tap/timesert, but then realize the tensioner mount bolt is screwed into the oil pump. And. drilling/tapping it will deposit metal shavings into the engine, so that's out.

Alright, so at this point I've decided to replace the oil pump. But, to replace the oil pump you must drop the oil pans.
... and dropping the oil pans requires either removing the engine from the truck, or dropping the differential.

I've been wanting to rebuild the front axles anyway, so I decide to pull the front diff. To remove the axles, you have to unbolt the font control arms from the spindle, to create some clearance.

... the bushings/bearings in the front controls arms are original/200,000 mile oil, so, would be silly to put those parts back in. But, if I'm replacing them, I'm going to need an alignment. So, I might as well replace everything in the front. Cue upper control arm, lower control arm, chassis bushing, tie rods, end links, sway bar bushings, steering rack mounts, etc. Oh, and doing diff mounts since it's out.

... but oh no, if I'm doing an alignment, I might as well refresh the rear end as well. Cue rear control arms, rear panhard bar, rear sway mounts, rear tie rods.

Thusly, because of a timing belt job, I'm replacing rear axle control arms "while I'm in there".

Mid way through this project. Taking over my life, currently. And, because everything is original at 200,000 miles, it's not super happy to come off. Full bottle of penetrating oil into the project. The final step each day is spraying down the nuts/bolts I'll be removing the next day :

[Grke46m3]

Review: HTE Tuning

I made some changes this winter that necessitated a new tune (higher flow injectors, colder plugs). I decided to take the opportunity to wipe years of continual tune changes and start from a fresh (CSL) stock tune.

Hassan (HTE) tuned my best friend's car 2-3 years ago, and I was always impressed how much it felt like a stock car (only with more power). His car, far and away, felt the most “stock” feeling (in the good way) of any tuned car I've driven. So, I decided to go that route, as well.

My full hardware setup:
CSL Engine management, with MAP
OEM CSL Airbox, no flap
Higher flow injectors (Bosch 0280156063)
One step colder plugs (Denso ixu27)
Schrick 280/272 cams
SS V1 stepped headers (with a bosch wideband installed in an extra bung for data logging)
SS HJS catted section 1
SS Twin tube resonated Section 2
SS Street muffler

The injectors really threw everything for a loop compared to a “normal” tune, but Hassan was great. He had a general idea of where they would be from previous cars, but we played it safe—exactly what I want.

First, fired it up and monitored AFRs at idle. All good.
Next, fire it up and monitor AFRs while holding it at 2000 rpm. Also good.

Then, the part that I think really has set this tune apart from every previous tune I've had—road tuning! Every previous tune I've had has been WOT runs on the dyno. He spent way longer with me than I would have expected, working over and refining the tune as I drove around. Full throttle, all sorts of partial throttle, all RPM. The car feels freaking great—never stumbles, pulls from all RPM, blips readily/enthusiastically, etc. I still intend to try the drivability spreadsheet for fun (and because it'll haunt me forever if I don't), but I am dubious there's room for improvement at this point.

I also have no doubt this tune is safe. Knock sensors are left at stock values, and we have a nice, safe 12.5 AFR from ~5500rpm to redline to keep it cool and knock free on track.

Haven't had it in on a dyno, because I frankly don't care so long as it drives correctly, but the car feels STRONG.

10/10, would buy again.

Because posts need pictures:

Ian you did this all on the road? How many pulls did you do?


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