Obioban's 2005 IR/IR Coupe

[heinzboehmer]

Can you share the details on the wide and setup? I've been wanting to install a similar setup for a while. Curious which O2 sensor was used, and if any adapters were required. How you wired it and the cabin hardware/software would be really helpful! Looks awesome!

If you want something permanent and completely inconspicuous, buy an "AEM X-Series Inline Wideband AFR Controller" and do this: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...429#post255429

That controller streams the AFR data over CAN, so I made a small adapter harness to hook into the bus and also bring CAN to the OBD port: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...140#post260140

I'm pretty sure AEM makes something that will stream the data over serial as well, so you can log it on your computer. Obioban (or his neighbor) might know more about that.

[Obioban]

Slon tells me from memory that the cabrio style brace is good for 250-300Nm/degree not much but not nothing! Especially if it’s lighter.

See if you can talk him into testing the V-Brace bracket

[Obioban]

Recaro and Cobra in the same car.

[Obioban]

Can you share the details on the wide and setup? I've been wanting to install a similar setup for a while. Curious which O2 sensor was used, and if any adapters were required. How you wired it and the cabin hardware/software would be really helpful! Looks awesome!

I have this, but the AEM is less of a PITA:

https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/lm-2-single-o2-ultimate-shop-kit.html

The innovate setup I have is very... picky. Picky about power, picky about preheating the O2. I've figured out what it likes now, and can work within it, buy my neighbor has the AEM and it's much more plug and go. Note: He isn't a BMW guy, so can't speak to how well it works with Testo/BMWLogger/etc.

In terms of how it's installed, I leave the wideband installed in my header full time and have the plug routed to the drug bin. When I want to log AFRs, I run a cable through the passenger window, under the hood by the cowl, to the drug bin. I only want to monitor AFRs when tuning (not full time), so didn't do any sort of permanent wire routing.

Software wise, I started out using BMWLogger (pictured above). It sucks. I'm now using Testo. It is not the most intuitive to set up but once getting past that it's just better.

[duracellttu]

Review: HTE Tuning

I made some changes this winter that necessitated a new tune (higher flow injectors, colder plugs). I decided to take the opportunity to wipe years of continual tune changes and start from a fresh (CSL) stock tune.

Hassan (HTE) tuned my best friend's car 2-3 years ago, and I was always impressed how much it felt like a stock car (only with more power). His car, far and away, felt the most “stock” feeling (in the good way) of any tuned car I've driven. So, I decided to go that route, as well.

My full hardware setup:
CSL Engine management, with MAP
OEM CSL Airbox, no flap
Higher flow injectors (Bosch 0280156063)
One step colder plugs (Denso ixu27)
Schrick 280/272 cams
SS V1 stepped headers (with a bosch wideband installed in an extra bung for data logging)
SS HJS catted section 1
SS Twin tube resonated Section 2
SS Street muffler

The injectors really threw everything for a loop compared to a “normal” tune, but Hassan was great. He had a general idea of where they would be from previous cars, but we played it safe—exactly what I want.

First, fired it up and monitored AFRs at idle. All good.
Next, fire it up and monitor AFRs while holding it at 2000 rpm. Also good.

Then, the part that I think really has set this tune apart from every previous tune I've had—road tuning! Every previous tune I've had has been WOT runs on the dyno. He spent way longer with me than I would have expected, working over and refining the tune as I drove around. Full throttle, all sorts of partial throttle, all RPM. The car feels freaking great—never stumbles, pulls from all RPM, blips readily/enthusiastically, etc. I still intend to try the drivability spreadsheet for fun (and because it'll haunt me forever if I don't), but I am dubious there's room for improvement at this point.

I also have no doubt this tune is safe. Knock sensors are left at stock values, and we have a nice, safe 12.5 AFR from ~5500rpm to redline to keep it cool and knock free on track.

Haven't had it in on a dyno, because I frankly don't care so long as it drives correctly, but the car feels STRONG.

10/10, would buy again.

Because posts need pictures:

Can you share the details on the wide and setup? I've been wanting to install a similar setup for a while. Curious which O2 sensor was used, and if any adapters were required. How you wired it and the cabin hardware/software would be really helpful! Looks awesome!

[karter16]

Slon tells me from memory that the cabrio style brace is good for 250-300Nm/degree not much but not nothing! Especially if it’s lighter.

Ah that's awesome! I was wondering last week whether it was something he might have tested. Great to have this data point and to know that it is an improvement (plus as you say with less weight).

[Bry5on]

Excited

Slon tells me from memory that the cabrio style brace is good for 250-300Nm/degree not much but not nothing! Especially if it’s lighter.

[Obioban]

Excited

[Obioban]

Nice. Glad it has worked out so well.

Apologies if I missed this in the thread – why colder plugs?

It seems that the conventional rule is, "one heat range colder for every 75–100hp added"
e.g.: https://www.ngk.com/what-is-a-spark-plugs-heat-range-2

Last time my care was dynoed it was 351rwhp (dynojet SAE) which is ~70whp more than stock, which is ~83 crank hp, which is exactly in the middle of the range the range where it's suggested to go one step colder.

That said, there was no specific symptom I was hoping to address or gain I was expecting to realize. Just... attempting to optimize

[IamFODI]

Nice. Glad it has worked out so well.

Apologies if I missed this in the thread – why colder plugs?

[Obioban]

Review: HTE Tuning

I made some changes this winter that necessitated a new tune (higher flow injectors, colder plugs). I decided to take the opportunity to wipe years of continual tune changes and start from a fresh (CSL) stock tune.

Hassan (HTE) tuned my best friend’s car 2-3 years ago, and I was always impressed how much it felt like a stock car (only with more power). His car, far and away, felt the most “stock” feeling (in the good way) of any tuned car I’ve driven. So, I decided to go that route, as well.

My full hardware setup:
CSL Engine management, with MAP
OEM CSL Airbox, no flap
Higher flow injectors (Bosch 0280156063)
One step colder plugs (Denso ixu27)
Schrick 280/272 cams
SS V1 stepped headers (with a bosch wideband installed in an extra bung for data logging)
SS HJS catted section 1
SS Twin tube resonated Section 2
SS Street muffler

The injectors really threw everything for a loop compared to a “normal” tune, but Hassan was great. He had a general idea of where they would be from previous cars, but we played it safe—exactly what I want.

First, fired it up and monitored AFRs at idle. All good.
Next, fire it up and monitor AFRs while holding it at 2000 rpm. Also good.

Then, the part that I think really has set this tune apart from every previous tune I’ve had—road tuning! Every previous tune I’ve had has been WOT runs on the dyno. He spent way longer with me than I would have expected, working over and refining the tune as I drove around. Full throttle, all sorts of partial throttle, all RPM. The car feels freaking great—never stumbles, pulls from all RPM, blips readily/enthusiastically, etc. I still intend to try the drivability spreadsheet for fun (and because it’ll haunt me forever if I don’t), but I am dubious there’s room for improvement at this point.

I also have no doubt this tune is safe. Knock sensors are left at stock values, and we have a nice, safe 12.5 AFR from ~5500rpm to redline to keep it cool and knock free on track.

Haven’t had it in on a dyno, because I frankly don’t care so long as it drives correctly, but the car feels STRONG.

10/10, would buy again.

Because posts need pictures:

[oceansize]

Technically I think this is lighter than the original rubber sound deadening mat.

Nice, I was starting to think the end times were approaching... lol

[Obioban]

51488204055 (the original rubber mat): 2.83 kg
51488252759 (the replacement one): 1.67 kg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

there you go.

Was hard to be certain, as the original came out in... shards.

[Obioban]

I actually am very jealous. It's one of those things I keep forgetting to buy...

Just got back from a failed attempt at data logging with Testo (seemingly didn't record anything), and it is decidedly quieter with that installed.



Action shot, reading your post.

[karter16]

Technically I think this is lighter than the original rubber sound deadening mat.

51488204055 (the original rubber mat): 2.83 kg
51488252759 (the replacement one): 1.67 kg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk