I have attempted to bring my mod list up to date. There's probably some things I'm missing, but... it's closer than it was.
Engine:
OEM ( Die Wethje) CSL Airbox
Schrick 280/272 cams
TMS pullies
Dr VANOS cryo treated exhaust hub
Beisan systems lifetime VANOS sealing plate o-rings
Beisan systems lifetime VANOS solenoid
Beisan oil pump disk
Beisan VANOS rattle repair kit
Beisan VANOS seals
Beisan timing chain tensioner guide
TurboToy (modified ARP) cam bolts
updated BMW high pressure vanos oil line
lifetime CPV o-ring
Exhaust:
SuperSprint V1 stepped headers (swaintech coated)
SuperSprint HJS catted V1 Section 1
SuperSprint resonated twin tube section 2
SuperSprint Street muffler
Engine Management:
CSL Engine Management
MCCHIP-DKR Dyno tune
OE CSL IAT
OE CSL Map rail/sensor
Aux/clutched fan replaced with ecu controlled (using Z4M values) spal fan
SMG shift lights turned on
post cat 02s turned down but left on (ready)
secondary air pump sensor disabled
cold start sequence disabled
non sport throttle mapping
sport button disabled for future alternate use
sport mode memory enabled
EGT tweaked for HJS Cats' allowable max temps
Top speed limiter removed
Dyno limiter removed
CSL warmup light values
Suspension:
Fat Cat Motorsports Stage 3 Coilovers
Springs: 375 FL, 350 FR, 700 RL, 650 RR (equal frequencies left/right, 1.97hz front, 2.10hz rear, 75% front roll couple with sway in middle of adjustment range)
Corner balanced and preload dialed out, with equal ride heights left/right with me in the drivers seat
Ground control street camber plates
Ground control street RSMs
Ground control Front sway/bushings/brackets/end links
CSL Rear sway/bushings/brackets, with home made adjustable end link
Sealed monoball RTABs
Bimmerworld sealed monoball rear adjustable camber arms
CSL Kingpins
Steering
ZHP/yellow tag steering rack
25% assist reduction by shimming pressure regulator
CHF-11 conversion
Alcantara steering wheel
Brakes:
817.3 DSC unit (CSL)
Porsche 996 calipers
CSL/ZCP/Z4M rotors (FCP)
stainless lines
OE Porsche Street pads (FCP)
track pads (FCP)
Castrol SRF (FCP)
Hard Motorsport Brake Ducts
Hard motorsport backing plates
Body:
Evolve CF roof
Vorsteiner CSL trunk
Fucy CSL diffuser
Gunmetal grills/gills
Depo smoked front corner lights
35% tint (3M)
vinyl M stripes on trunk badge (stock colors, less prone to fading)
modern BMW wheel center caps
shark fin removed
OEM driver’s side keyhole cover (to deter thieves)
Wheels:
18" RAC RG-63s in gunmetal (street)
17" Apex ARC-8s (track)
TMS 75mm studs
Lights:
TFX projectors
55w bulbs/ballasts/ignitors in 4300k
85w halogen highs, programmed to come on with the xenon highs
Outer brake light ring enabled for normal braking
Brake lights programmed to strobe under hard stops
e9X LED license plate lights
Interior:
Cobra Nogaros in Imola Red leather, with factory heating pads install and adjustable lumbar
Brey Krause Mounts on factory e46 manual sliders
Brey Krause Rear deck harness mounts
Alcantara wrapped header liner
Alcantara wrapped pillars
Alcantara wrapped rear deck
Alcantara wrapped steering wheel
imola leather wrapped center console
imola leather wrapped arm rest
imola leather wrapped ebrake book
Z8 ebrake handle
M3 oval interior mirror retrofit
Stereo:
100% of factory stereo, mounting brackets, and wiring harness deleted
Avin Avant 4 with speakers plugged in directly to unit
Wireless CarPlay module
Chassis:
Vincebar, epoxy/rivet under floor version
TMS subframe reinforcement kit with extra reinforcements
BMW structural foam in subframe cavity
updated BMW diff mount bolts
CMP subframe raising solid mounts
front strut tower inserts to remove slots
Slonik chassis reenforcement plate
Misc:
Wavetrac differential
Brail GU1R lithium ion battery (6 lbs), mounted in the engine bay to eliminate 6 lb battery cable
Entire factory stereo (inc wiring harness, mounts, etc) removed
Light weight (2 speaker) stereo powered by head unit installed
Avin 9" touch screen head unit install (wireless CarPlay 99% of the time)
CSL Cabin air filter housing
Auto Solutions SSK
RE Transmission mounts
Hella Horns
CDV delete
VAG grocery bag hooks
CSL Aux coolant pump
Washer tank swapped for e39 high intensity washer tank
e39 washer stalk for extra button to toggle M Track Mode while preserving on quick DSC off and steering wheel controls
Coding (non comprehensive highlights):
CSL oil level display (in cluster) enabled
M track mode enabled
Strobing shift lights
Announcement
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No announcement yet.
Obioban's 2005 IR/IR Coupe
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Originally posted by Obioban View Post
Haven't needed replacement pads yet, so will cross that bridge when I come to it.
I started out with 4 cylinders, but it was way more difficult that way. With 2 cylinders, I know what the level is when scale. With 4, whenever I would change one all 4 would change, and I'd have to figure out what the new equal amount should be. Plus more tubes to trip over and fluid to fill. It was just a mess.
With the new system, I just leave one on the highest, and then compare, one at a time, each scale to that. Quick, minimal fuss, easy to determine if level, less stuff to store.
... when we move, I'm going to use them to level my new 4 post lift and then probably get rid of them. Once I know the lift is level, they are no longer useful.
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Originally posted by blazenXLT View Post
Interesting - I run 17x9.5 et35 all the time and have been thinking of a BBK upgrade soon, but I hate to buy something and have to just hope that it fits. I thought PFC made a BBK for fitting in a 17 but bimmerworld shows it as not available. Haven't done any more research though...
On the garage I'd only offer the standard advice - you can't have too much space, power or light. On light I did ok in our build, but I do wish I'd added more outlets. I did run 220v to two places, so that should cover me for any future lifts, compressors, or EVs. And like I mentioned before, the space where I'd put a lift is 8 inches of 4000 psi reinforced concrete. I'll have to post up some pics in my journal thread.
I'll be running 220v for sure-- Lift, air compressor, and realistically EVs are going to take over while I live in this house.
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Originally posted by S14 View Post
I'm about to put porsche brakes on, and couldn't be bothered with fiddling with the logo/repaint either! Did you get track pads sorted out through FCP? They seem to be out of stock of the good stuff for 6 months or so. My last conversation with a rep was that DS11.1's were backordered from the factory, not that they weren't going to carry them any longer.
Great idea on the vynil floor tiles, I'm going to try that out! Do you level left right/ front back/cross? Could you use 4 cylinders and not have to level the pads multiple times?
I started out with 4 cylinders, but it was way more difficult that way. With 2 cylinders, I know what the level is when scale. With 4, whenever I would change one all 4 would change, and I'd have to figure out what the new equal amount should be. Plus more tubes to trip over and fluid to fill. It was just a mess.
With the new system, I just leave one on the highest, and then compare, one at a time, each scale to that. Quick, minimal fuss, easy to determine if level, less stuff to store.
... when we move, I'm going to use them to level my new 4 post lift and then probably get rid of them. Once I know the lift is level, they are no longer useful.
Leave a comment:
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Originally posted by Obioban View Post
Ha. The stickers have double purpose-- hide the Porsche logo and tell me the caliper temperatures :P
I have two graduated cylinders, connected by a tube at the bottom with 1/2" rubber fish tank line. I put water with food coloring (to make it easier to see) in there, and fill them both ~3/4 full. I shim under till both cylinders read the same, at which point I know they're level. I try to figure out which scale is the highest, and then use all the others to compare to that (shimming the others up). Once everything is shimmed up, I zero the scales so they don't contribute to corner weights.
As shims, I use whatever the cheapest vinyl floor tiles I could find at Home Depot were (IIRC it was like $30 for 100 of them). They're ~1mm thick, so I can get reasonable leveling, and they're slippery-- so when I raise/lower the car, it doesn't get stuck high with the camber curve, and if I, say, adjust camber, I'm not fighting the friction of the tire on the scale-- the floor tiles just slide against each other.
Great idea on the vynil floor tiles, I'm going to try that out! Do you level left right/ front back/cross? Could you use 4 cylinders and not have to level the pads multiple times?
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Originally posted by Obioban View Post
The brembos fit under the specific 17 I run (not most 17s), as do the 996 calipers I’m now running. I have 17x9.5 et35s ordered that I’m REALLY hoping fit over the 996 brakes... I really dislike the et25 setup for track use.
I don’t really have any great garage ideas, beyond having it finally be large enough to not be annoyed. Open to suggestions!
On the garage I'd only offer the standard advice - you can't have too much space, power or light. On light I did ok in our build, but I do wish I'd added more outlets. I did run 220v to two places, so that should cover me for any future lifts, compressors, or EVs. And like I mentioned before, the space where I'd put a lift is 8 inches of 4000 psi reinforced concrete. I'll have to post up some pics in my journal thread.
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Originally posted by blazenXLT View PostYour Brembos fit under a 17 inch wheel right? I think I remember you running 17s on the track.
I'd also be interested in details on the new garage. We just moved into our new build in November. We expanded the garage in depth and width, put an extra high ceiling in the 3rd bay plus extra concrete. 99% sure a 4 post will go in late this year.
I don’t really have any great garage ideas, beyond having it finally be large enough to not be annoyed. Open to suggestions!
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Your Brembos fit under a 17 inch wheel right? I think I remember you running 17s on the track.
I'd also be interested in details on the new garage. We just moved into our new build in November. We expanded the garage in depth and width, put an extra high ceiling in the 3rd bay plus extra concrete. 99% sure a 4 post will go in late this year.
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Originally posted by Obioban View Post
I was driving on them last year. They're... 90% as good as the Brembo GT kit was. Better than stoptech or stock, and actually easier pad swaps than the brembos, but the pedal feedback isn't quite as good.
Also, they're a not insignificantly heavier setup.
But, FCP sells the wear items, sooo....
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Originally posted by Obioban View PostAt this point I just need to finish a wiring harness I'm setting up, set the end links on the sways, and she's ready for the year
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Originally posted by Exclusivs View PostNice updates Ian!
Looking forward to hearing your take on the retro-fit, VS real GT kit
Also, they're a not insignificantly heavier setup.
But, FCP sells the wear items, sooo....
- Likes 1
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Nice updates Ian!
Looking forward to hearing your take on the retro-fit, VS real GT kit
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Originally posted by S14 View PostLooking good, I like your brake caliper stickers!
Can you explain a bit more how you leveled your scales? Mainly, how did you shim to adjust the height and how did you set up the graduated cylinders?
I have two graduated cylinders, connected by a tube at the bottom with 1/2" rubber fish tank line. I put water with food coloring (to make it easier to see) in there, and fill them both ~3/4 full. I shim under till both cylinders read the same, at which point I know they're level. I try to figure out which scale is the highest, and then use all the others to compare to that (shimming the others up). Once everything is shimmed up, I zero the scales so they don't contribute to corner weights.
As shims, I use whatever the cheapest vinyl floor tiles I could find at Home Depot were (IIRC it was like $30 for 100 of them). They're ~1mm thick, so I can get reasonable leveling, and they're slippery-- so when I raise/lower the car, it doesn't get stuck high with the camber curve, and if I, say, adjust camber, I'm not fighting the friction of the tire on the scale-- the floor tiles just slide against each other.
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