Obioban's 2005 IR/IR Coupe

[Will]

Do you have a house-build thread? It'd be interesting to see that process.

[Obioban]

Cool then wait for your update on more work on your sweet ride

I'm beginning the process of building a house (of which I'll be DIYing a fair bit ), so car mod progress will probably slow down for a while. I also have no place to do car work during the construction phase
(but will have a kick as work shop at the new house-- first time I'll ever be designing my own garage!)

The M3 is probably, sadly, going to live this summer/fall in a storage unit, in go to the track mode (track tires in the back seat, track bins in the trunk)... and likely only come out for track events. The M3 wagon will be handling the fun driving this year. I won't have garage space during the construction phase, and don't want to leave the M3 coupe parked outside...

[Rudbari]

It’s basically...
50 lbs of roof
50 lbs of seats
50 lbs of battery
50 lbs of wiring/electronics
100 lbs of many misc smaller items

Cool then wait for your update on more work on your sweet ride

[Obioban]

I believe there was a thread you made back then on everything you did on weight but can’t find it .

It’s basically...
50 lbs of roof
50 lbs of seats
50 lbs of battery
50 lbs of wiring/electronics
100 lbs of many misc smaller items

[Rudbari]

EVERYTHING matters. Consider weight on every single thing you do to the car.

I believe there was a thread you made back then on everything you did on weight but can’t find it .

[Obioban]

Amazing bro and good luck

could you give me tips of weight reduction.

EVERYTHING matters. Consider weight on every single thing you do to the car.

[Rudbari]

Amazing bro and good luck

could you give me tips of weight reduction.

[Obioban]

Subframe, drive shaft, and muffler back in. All downhill from here. Not even any heavy lifting left to go :P




Hopefully the Slonik plate gets here soon, or it's going to become a next winter project...

[Obioban]

How would you rate the DIY toughness of the rivet style Vinebar? I’ve been considering it, although it make make sense just to weld it in if I am doing plates at the same time so I don’t need to drop the subframe twice.

It's not actually hard to do... just stressful (and a bit time consuming). If you can handle vanos lockdowns, you can handle this.

It might seem more time consuming to me than it actually is, as I've been doing it one baby nap at a time, for the duration of said baby nap.

[Inizes]

How would you rate the DIY toughness of the rivet style Vinebar? I’ve been considering it, although it make make sense just to weld it in if I am doing plates at the same time so I don’t need to drop the subframe twice.

[oceansize]

I popped the bimmerworld RTABs open because they started making noise after ~5000 miles. My hope is that they learned their lessons and are doing what they claim these days :P

Ahhhh, I had forgotten it was bimmerworld and not GC.

[Obioban]

I am curious as to why you used an electric dremel type tool rather than a pneumatic die grinder. More precise? Less mess?

Thanks.

Jesse

I really didn’t want to cut too much.

[D-O]

So far so good with the Proxxon on. I had 3 dremels fail during this project. The Proxxon has already put in more time then all of them combined, and no magic smoke.

It does seem to have an overheat sensor, and shut down if it triggers. Which is a good idea!

I got this one: http://www.proxtools.com/store/pc/vi...&idcategory=26

I think I don't have enough understanding of how diffs work (why BMW put that slop in there to begin with) to decide if something like that bevel washer is a good idea, so I went without. The safe route :P

I am curious as to why you used an electric dremel type tool rather than a pneumatic die grinder. More precise? Less mess?

Thanks.

Jesse

[Obioban]

I've had the GC monoball ARCAs for around 1500 miles with no issues. I did ask what they used and they said strictly delphi/lemforder for 5/7 series (I know you cracked open a different part of theirs back in the day and it wasn't). What is the indicator there is a problem? Noise/squeaking, or just how long they last?

I popped the bimmerworld RTABs open because they started making noise after ~5000 miles. My hope is that they learned their lessons and are doing what they claim these days :P

[oceansize]

This is not a recommendation, as I'll probably have a bad experience (based on previous experiences with the company, but Bimmerworld.

I've had the GC monoball ARCAs for around 1500 miles with no issues. I did ask what they used and they said strictly delphi/lemforder for 5/7 series (I know you cracked open a different part of theirs back in the day and it wasn't). What is the indicator there is a problem? Noise/squeaking, or just how long they last?