My 2003 Steel Grey/Imola Red 6MT Build!

[SteelGreyM]

Well I guess I need to make another one of these. I dont have the patience to do the whole build thread right now so lets start where I currently am - my engine rebuild! The photos shown are just some random ones showing key moments in the build. Ill update it with better photos later on.


Current Mods List
Every job except subframe was DIY

Engine
Currently apart :P
-Custom CP Pistons
-Molnar Rods w/ ARP 2000 Hardware
-OEM WPC Rod Bearings
-Calico Coated Main Bearings
-High Performance 5 Angle Valve Job
-CSF Oil Cooler
-Full Beisan VANOS + Cam Bolts + Upgraded Vanos Line
-Upgraded CPV O-ring
-Silicone Cooling Hoses
-SAP Delete

Suspension
-Koni/Eibach
-Turner front + rear sway bars
-Ground Control adjustable sway bar end links
-TMS adjustable rear control arms
-CMP solid subframe bushing
-CMP sealed hybrid RTAB
-Every other bushing front and back replaced with fresh OE rubber

Exhaust
-Status Gruppe Headers (Ceramic Coated)
-AR25 welded into sec 1
Yeah it's kind of raspy outside of the car but it sounds glorious in the car

Drivetrain
-JB Racing Aluminum Lightweight Flywheel
-Clutch Masters FX100 Clutch + Pressure Plate
-CDV Delete
-Brand New BMW Driveshaft (Not a mod but I paid too much for that thing not to brag)
-E60 BMW SSK

DME/Electric/Radio
-Stock tune (Changing shortly)
-M track mode
-CSL shift lights
-No cold start sequence
-Oil temp warm up lights
-SAP delete
-Rear o2's coded for CEL and Emissions purposes
-BlueBus (thank you Ted!)
-Umnitza orion V4 Angel Eyes

Body/Paint/Interior
-Steel Grey on Imola Red (40k miles on interior. Again I just had to brag!)
-Aluminum Trim
-Front bumper clear bra
-Full paint correction
-Alcantara Steering Wheel
-F10 M5 Shift Knob
-LED license plate lights

Brakes/Wheels/Steering
-OEM CSL Wheels wrapped in Michelin PS4S
-OEM 18" wheels for the track
-CSL rotors + calipers
-OE Street Pads
-Hawk DTC-70 track pads
-Motul RBF 600 brake fluid
-ZHP yellow tag rack
-OEM BMW Wheel Locks

Im sure theres more im forgetting^


Heres where is all started. The day I brought it home. I had been dreaming over the car for years. With some hard work and serious dedication I brought my M3 home at 17.


Soon after buying the car I gave it a full paint correction. Here’s the result.


I wasted no time reinforcing the subframe. At the same time I installed TMS adjustable control arms, CMP solid subframe bushings, CMP hybrid RTABs, and fresh OE rubber everywhere else!


The worst crack I had.





Ground control adjustable end links!




Here’s me at the track! Road America. That same session I snapped a NEW “upgraded” bmw diff bolt. I drove to farm and fleet right next to road America and bought some ratchet straps. After attaching the diff to the subframe I cruised home to Chicago with no issues and got it repaired.

I had to pick up some red seats. My black interior was in very good condition but I just had to have the red! Installed OEM aluminum trim at the same time.


And just like that!




Freshly align + torque plate honed block. (9/19/2020)

Molnar Rods + Custom Extra High Valve Clearance CP Pistons with skirt and top coat. I had these pistons made to account for the change in deck height from decking the block. Deck height is the measurement from the top of the piston to the top of the block. When you remove material off the block and/or head you change the deck height. These pistons correct the change in deck height allowing me to run a stock sized head gasket.


High performance 5 angle valve job performed by my machine shop. BMW brand valve seals going in upon re-assembly.

The goal is to have the car running in about a month!

[heinzboehmer]

Car is looking great! Did you ever figure out what caused your engine to fail? I remember it looked almost like something fell down into the cylinder.

[SteelGreyM]

Car is looking great! Did you ever figure out what caused your engine to fail? I remember it looked almost like something fell down into the cylinder.

We never did actually. Seems like the common denomenator of the last few engines blown on the forums was the tune we were all running. I had the buildjournal B spec tune on my car. I hate to point fingers and drop names but when everyone is having the same issue, its hard not to. That, in combination with the e85 kit + stock injector caused all my issues (my best guess). I never ran straight e85 by the way.

As far as the damage goes - that was caused by a chunk of piston that broke off and made its way into the combustion chamber before getting bounced around and shot out of the exhaust valve. That reminds me, ill throw up some photos of the damage

[skristedja]

Great choice with the imola interior! Very underrated combo in my opinion, though I may be biased. What was the e85 kit you were using? Hopefully you are able to get it back on the road/track soon!

[SteelGreyM]

Great choice with the imola interior! Very underrated combo in my opinion, though I may be biased. What was the e85 kit you were using? Hopefully you are able to get it back on the road/track soon!

I was using the APE kit. I still have it on the car and im not going to pull it off - just won't run e85 anymore unless I know its safe to do so. I got my injectors tested and cleaned to make sure nothing was damaged.

[SteelGreyM]

Update: I think I may have gotten to the bottom of this. If your e85 piggyback vibrates it can read the RPM wrong. Mine read all the way to 17k rpm every once in a while. This is most likely the case. I’ll be pulling it off before putting the engine in.

Make sure to properly mount and secure your e85 piggy backs people. While I can’t say for certain, I think this was it.

Then again, I started noticing weird oil temps after getting my car back from the rod bearings service...

Whatever, I’ll pull it off anyway. And I’ll get any engine related software stuff done professionally from now on. Lesson learned. Too bad it was on the m3

[skristedja]

Update: I think I may have gotten to the bottom of this. If your e85 piggyback vibrates it can read the RPM wrong. Mine read all the way to 17k rpm every once in a while. This is most likely the case. I’ll be pulling it off before putting the engine in.

Make sure to properly mount and secure your e85 piggy backs people. While I can’t say for certain, I think this was it.

Then again, I started noticing weird oil temps after getting my car back from the rod bearings service...

Whatever, I’ll pull it off anyway. And I’ll get any engine related software stuff done professionally from now on. Lesson learned. Too bad it was on the m3

Interesting... I just had two misfires on cyl 4 and 6 on a quick drive yesterday (p0304, p0306). My coils and plugs aren't due for another 40k miles so I would be shocked if it was those and if I had two fail simultaneously. My AFD controller was floating around the drug bin as the adhesive mounting point had failed, so it's probable that I was having the same issue. After temporarily re-seating the controller and starting the car back up, the misfires were gone. I'm going to look into making a secure mounting point.

[SteelGreyM]

Interesting... I just had two misfires on cyl 4 and 6 on a quick drive yesterday (p0304, p0306). My coils and plugs aren't due for another 40k miles so I would be shocked if it was those and if I had two fail simultaneously. My AFD controller was floating around the drug bin as the adhesive mounting point had failed, so it's probable that I was having the same issue. After temporarily re-seating the controller and starting the car back up, the misfires were gone. I'm going to look into making a secure mounting point.

I’ve seen lots people zip tie it nicely to the drug bun area. That’s what I did. It was literally rock solid but was still vibrating. If you can route it to the glove box or something that would probably be best. Maybe behind the glove box up by the passenger footwell light. Somewhere with less NVH.

[skristedja]

I’ve seen lots people zip tie it nicely to the drug bun area. That’s what I did. It was literally rock solid but was still vibrating. If you can route it to the glove box or something that would probably be best. Maybe behind the glove box up by the passenger footwell light. Somewhere with less NVH.

Good to know. I have an ignition service kit on the way regardless just to have on hand if the problem arises again.

[SteelGreyM]

Good to know. I have an ignition service kit on the way regardless just to have on hand if the problem arises again.

Honestly, i'd just pull it off if I were you. I know someone else who had the kit and his tuner didn't want him running it. My tuner suggested I pull it off as well. The risks are just too high IMO