Battery charging while flashing

[Cubieman]

Is it really necessary to run a 10A charger while flashing? I've got a 1.25A trickle charger and a 6A maintainer as well. What brands/models are you guys using?

[BMW_QAS]

Harbor Freight sells a 10amp for around $56. I got it for $47 with a 20% coupon. Works well enough to flash the ecu and pull trace files without worry.

[terra]

It's not really necessary as long as you're not sitting there for an hour+ at a time. Especially if you don't have DRLs.

If you get MSSFlasher, the flashes are super quick too, so even less of a need for a charger than

[r4dr]

Look at it as cheap insurance... why risk the potential headache of bricking?

[eacmen]

If your battery is on its way out or its been sitting for a while then you're taking a risk. If the battery is in good condition and charged up then you should be fine. Avoid running how power things like the radio, water pump, smg pump, etc and you should be fine.

[Cubieman]

Look at it as cheap insurance... why risk the potential headache of bricking?

I hear you, I'll be purchasing a higher amperage charger very soon.

[M3_HTX]

Is the Harbor Freight one ok to use for updating the SMG ECU to run CSL '255" software?

[Cubieman]

Just check the AMP rating and make sure it's not simply a 1amp trickle charger, also make sure it can deliver its amperage in whatever mode you have it set for (if any are available).
I bought a pretty nice 10A and always leave the computers plugged in while flashing. I always just stand back so I don't come close to kicking the cable or anything like that.
BMW flash generally takes about a minute or so to flash a partial BIN, so its quick. With a good battery you'll be fine, just don't make a habit of flashing without the right charger.

[eacmen]

Our car has a tiny lithium battery so it's always connected to a lithium charger. I always program the ECU with the charger attached, never had an issue. Even with the smg pump cycling every few minutes to maintain pressure.

Just flashing a tune just make sure your battery is charged. Turn your radio and hvac off.

If you want to get particular about it remove relay for smg and fuse for fuel pump. Those are the only two things i can think of that would brown out the battery even in full charge.

Understand that if you crank the engine with the starter a bunch of times it will drain the battery. Need to give it time to recharge on the charger.

I guess just practice common sense. Is a 10A supply the fool proof way? Yes. Is it necessary all the time? No. As long as you use your head and understand what parts of the car draw the most current.


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[M3_HTX]

Thanks guys. I used the one below.

https://www.harborfreight.com/10250a-12v-manual-charger-with-engine-start-60581.html

I was able to finally drop the CSL rev matching, etc. Game changer..... There is that puckering @$$hole moment when it's coding and watching that bar go across to 100%.

[Cubieman]

There is that puckering @$$hole moment when it's coding and watching that bar go across to 100%.

I hear you there!

[BL92]

Hi all

I just tried the Cteck and Noco 5's as i trial run before i buy a 10A ( i know i need 10s ) as soon as i turn the ignition on, the battery charger lights reset back to 1? so i am not sure if it's still charging if i try to download the bin?? i noticed as well, even if i open the door, the battery lights reset back to the 1st ?