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Update (with status)
- VANOS test (using toolset32) -> FAIL (times out)
- VANOS pressure test -> FAIL
- Timing -> PASS
- VANOS Oil Flow Regulating Valve - 11367830341 -> replaced. Found what appears to be a clog.
- VANOS piston seals -> no nicks. Cleaned and reinstalled
- VANOS high pressure pump -> cleaned and reinstalled
- valve adjustment -> PASS
- VANOS high pressure valve -> disassembled, cleaned and rebuilt. Seems to be functional.
Planned:
- Valve cover gasket
- VANOS high pressure line
- VANOS Accumulator
If there are additional checks before I close the put the cover back on, let me know please.
Where did the stuff in the palm of your hand come from?
Update (with status)
- VANOS test (using toolset32) -> FAIL (times out)
- VANOS pressure test -> FAIL
- Timing -> PASS
- VANOS Oil Flow Regulating Valve - 11367830341 -> replaced. Found what appears to be a clog.
- VANOS piston seals -> no nicks. Cleaned and reinstalled
- VANOS high pressure pump -> cleaned and reinstalled
- valve adjustment -> PASS
- VANOS high pressure valve -> disassembled, cleaned and rebuilt. Seems to be functional.
Planned:
- Valve cover gasket
- VANOS high pressure line
- VANOS Accumulator
If there are additional checks before I close the put the cover back on, let me know please.
Heads up,
I removed the nut, backed the screw out all the way to reveal the shaft with oring, spring and needle valve.
Read that there's a captive washer inside that supposedly should rattle freely when you shake the valve body. Mine is now (maybe from some thick oil).
Cleaned it out until things moved freely.
Reassembled, and assembled back.
I'll let the group know what's next progress wise.
I did just that and I could NOT move the the valve.
I loosened the nut and moved the Allen head screw. I can feel the spring move in and out but I couldn't move it.
This is a refurbished valve block from Beisan.
It included the high pressure regulator. Picture attached after I removed it to check if it was the root cause behind the low pressure
Is that the piece that seats between the cylinder and the VANOS?
If yes, I'm thinking of cleaning it with some brake cleaner fluid.
I doubt this low P regulator is the cause as it lets the oil flow in the vanos and the gauge shows 50 - 60 psi. The high P regulator is the one I suggested, pic below with the red mark points to the spring loaded valve which when pushed down should push back by the strong spring (to keep it closed below the release pressure of around 1500 psi.
The low P: I vote for the broken spring P regulator, as nothing on the system can cause this total loss of P. Remove the regulator and check the filter for tear that allowed debris to jam open the valve, and check if the spring load small piston is still under high spring tension.
So I have my acronym right:
The low pressure regulator: not to be confused with the accumulator
Is that the piece that seats between the cylinder and the VANOS?
If yes, I'm thinking of cleaning it with some brake cleaner fluid.
Or
Should I buy a new one? PN confirmation (11367830341)
The low P: I vote for the broken spring P regulator, as nothing on the system can cause this total loss of P. Remove the regulator and check the filter for tear that allowed debris to jam open the valve, and check if the spring load small piston is still under high spring tension.
Here's the latest update,
Made a VANOS pressure reading apparatus.
My suspicion is right:
- Low pressure reading to the tune of 3 bars (essentially engine pressure) -> refer to picture.
- Info on the adapter: I ended up cutting 7mm from the thread start to match the OEM banjo bolt.
Plan (with status)
- VANOS test (using toolset32) -> FAIL (times out)
- valve block swap -> Done (PASS) Beisan
- solenoid valve replacement -> Done (PASS) Beisan
- DME to solenoid resistance check -> Done (PASS)
- VANOS pressure test -> FAIL
- Check the exhaust sprocket hub -> not broken (Beisan)
- Check the exhaust upper chain guide -> not broken (Beisan)
- Check cam sprockets bolts -> not broken (at the least the hex head ones)
Next:
- VANOS high pressure line -> RE replacement in the mail
- VANOS Accumulator -> OEM replacement in the mail
- Confirm proper timing
Any ideas on what to check is greatly appreciated!
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