oceansize bruh just get some carpro hydro2, call it a day and thank me later.
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Just ordered Gyeon Pure Evo for my E90. I'll put my 2 cents in here afterwards. And compare it to the polymer (beadmaker) & sio2 (and sio2+tio2) quasi coatings/sprays I've been using.DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
/// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint
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Just an update on my impressions after "installing" my first true ceramic serum coating (Gyeon Pure Evo).
All necessary work was done to prepare the car, ofc, including final panel wipe before application. Application done on a nice day, inside the garage, so ideal situation. Only non-ideal part was that the bottle was manufactured a year ago, but it was sealed, and the contents were still perfectly clear and liquid.
Application was ridiculously easy, both on the paint, and leveling it with short nap "pearl" weave MF towel for no lint and less grab on the paint (towel was 320gsm 80/20 "the pearl")
You get several minutes to remove the coating, so no rush. There is a visible flash. Gyeon says you can remove it immediately, or not, but I wouldn't wait simply for the sake of waiting, only if you're progressing to a new panel, then go back and wipe off.
I found the best method to be with 2 towels, one to level, and a fresh one to catch any "overspray" as I call it - inevitably, you'll push some of the resin onto adjacent panels or glass, and you'll want to catch that with a new towel. I threw all towels away. I only will keep a towel if the ceramic product is the typical low sio2 content water based spray type (though I do wash it immediately).
I let the car sit for 2 days before I drove it. It's been a week today. I kept it inside today as we did have some rain; drove the E46 to work.
Impressions - I was actually pretty sad at first becuase the car didn't look a lot better than before. I always keep my cars clean, well polished, and I use quality LSPs, so I know there wasn't a lot of room for improvement, but the way people talk about coatings, I really expected a wow moment.
Luckily, it did seem to get even glossier as some days went by. My impression was also hampered by gloomy weather, I want to see it in our normal bright sunlight.
To be honest, the car doesn't look much better than when I have it coated with cheap Mother's CMX or Beadmaker. The point of this, will be the longevity, the chemical resistence/self healing, and water behavior so that I can wash and dry the car with minimal touching and keep the swirls away for a year to 18 months if possible, before polishing the car again, and maybe trying a new coating.
I recently corrected an F80 M3, and to finish it, I used a coating "lite"- Wolfgang uber ceramic spray coating (1 year protection), and honestly, it looks just as good (smelled the same even, strong VOCs/solvent) so I don't agree that the lite coatings aren't "true ceramics." They very much are, just not the 2-5yr longevity which I don't even want, personally.
I'm a little sad that all I get to do now is decon wash the car now, no trying different toppers as no topper will surpass the coating itself, and many actually ruin the coating. If it weren't for swirls on a black car, I'd really prefer NOT to apply a coating,as I enjoy the WOWO of product, and "touching" the car, trying different products. I guess I can still do that to my E46.
Oh, and I got the Gyeon pure for $45 after $15 off via DetailedImage. Can't beat that for a true coating! The Wolfgang 1 year coating retails for $65, and at that price, similar to Gyeon's CAN COAT at $60, I don't really recommend it over a $50-60 bottle of 2-3year ceramic, but I actually grabbed the wolfgang for $16.50 from autogeek on sale and plus copoun, and I'm glad I have it to experiment with and put on customer's cars who want better protection and looks for cheap. The 1 year spray coatings at $60+ make more sense if you have multiple cars or if it's for your business as they will cover like 6+ cars. They have a short (1 year) shelf life, so that's why I dont' really recommend buying them despite their great performance and cost per application.Last edited by Tbonem3; 05-04-2023, 04:11 PM.DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
/// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint
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Gyeon
MF applicator was easier to use than a block with suede. Soak it in serum once, then just a few drops each time
You can see how thick it goes on. Seems a bit streaky, but it levels out and there's full coverage
You can see it flash a bit
Super "candy" gloss
DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
/// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint
- Likes 3
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Thanks Will! It'd be more impressive with 4k video, but I'm not at that level of content creator 😋DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
/// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint
Comment
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Originally posted by Tbonem3 View PostJust an update on my impressions after "installing" my first true ceramic serum coating (Gyeon Pure Evo).
All necessary work was done to prepare the car, ofc, including final panel wipe before application. Application done on a nice day, inside the garage, so ideal situation. Only non-ideal part was that the bottle was manufactured a year ago, but it was sealed, and the contents were still perfectly clear and liquid.
Application was ridiculously easy, both on the paint, and leveling it with short nap "pearl" weave MF towel for no lint and less grab on the paint (towel was 320gsm 80/20 "the pearl")
You get several minutes to remove the coating, so no rush. There is a visible flash. Gyeon says you can remove it immediately, or not, but I wouldn't wait simply for the sake of waiting, only if you're progressing to a new panel, then go back and wipe off.
I found the best method to be with 2 towels, one to level, and a fresh one to catch any "overspray" as I call it - inevitably, you'll push some of the resin onto adjacent panels or glass, and you'll want to catch that with a new towel. I threw all towels away. I only will keep a towel if the ceramic product is the typical low sio2 content water based spray type (though I do wash it immediately).
I let the car sit for 2 days before I drove it. It's been a week today. I kept it inside today as we did have some rain; drove the E46 to work.
Impressions - I was actually pretty sad at first becuase the car didn't look a lot better than before. I always keep my cars clean, well polished, and I use quality LSPs, so I know there wasn't a lot of room for improvement, but the way people talk about coatings, I really expected a wow moment.
Luckily, it did seem to get even glossier as some days went by. My impression was also hampered by gloomy weather, I want to see it in our normal bright sunlight.
To be honest, the car doesn't look much better than when I have it coated with cheap Mother's CMX or Beadmaker. The point of this, will be the longevity, the chemical resistence/self healing, and water behavior so that I can wash and dry the car with minimal touching and keep the swirls away for a year to 18 months if possible, before polishing the car again, and maybe trying a new coating.
I recently corrected an F80 M3, and to finish it, I used a coating "lite"- Wolfgang uber ceramic spray coating (1 year protection), and honestly, it looks just as good (smelled the same even, strong VOCs/solvent) so I don't agree that the lite coatings aren't "true ceramics." They very much are, just not the 2-5yr longevity which I don't even want, personally.
I'm a little sad that all I get to do now is decon wash the car now, no trying different toppers as no topper will surpass the coating itself, and many actually ruin the coating. If it weren't for swirls on a black car, I'd really prefer NOT to apply a coating,as I enjoy the WOWO of product, and "touching" the car, trying different products. I guess I can still do that to my E46.
Oh, and I got the Gyeon pure for $45 after $15 off via DetailedImage. Can't beat that for a true coating! The Wolfgang 1 year coating retails for $65, and at that price, similar to Gyeon's CAN COAT at $60, I don't really recommend it over a $50-60 bottle of 2-3year ceramic, but I actually grabbed the wolfgang for $16.50 from autogeek on sale and plus copoun, and I'm glad I have it to experiment with and put on customer's cars who want better protection and looks for cheap. The 1 year spray coatings at $60+ make more sense if you have multiple cars or if it's for your business as they will cover like 6+ cars. They have a short (1 year) shelf life, so that's why I dont' really recommend buying them despite their great performance and cost per application.
The selling point for me is with our daily drivers. Oops, didn’t wash those bugs off for three weeks? No worries, after a good hand wash they look spectacular with little effort.
I’ve only really tried CarPro products and look forward to Gyeon and others next, so super helpful mentioning the shelf life comment. Thanks for that!
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I have my 22 X5 coated with xpel fusion 4 year. This was my first black car and I was a little nervous so I sent her out straight from the dealer to get done. The car gets parked outside and is subject to basically all elements.
Pros: gloss, beading effect, easy washing, even easier drying with leaf blower
Cons: if you get some swirls from poor washing, you need to polish and this will remove a good portion of the ceramic coating. For this reason I haven’t ceramic coated my e46 yet and will keep using Jescar sealant.
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Tbonem3 Appreciate the write up and awesome insight. I'm considering using Gyeon Pure Evo as well now but wondering if I'm better off just using the ceramic sprays after every wash. Also, did you ceramic coat your wheels as well? I'm considering getting the Gyeon Q2 quartz product for wheels.
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Welcome!
To coat or not to coat; a difficult proposition still.
There is no perfectly right answer. For me, it comes down to color of car, if you diy the correction & environment (garaged).
To make it simpler, I would say the only reason not to coat would be if you really wanted to "touch" the car a lot or do light polishes periodically. Maybe you have a garage queen and you love to polish it (super light) twice a year or so and apply a wet looking wax or polymer sealant. Coating wouldn't make as much sense. Price and difficulty of install used to be big factors, but products like Gyeon mohs or pure are very affordable and so easy to apply.
For most people, a 2 year (black car) to 5 year (white/silver) coating is great beaides the cost of not DIYing the correction. You wash it and blow off, don't need to top it or touch it in anyway. Then use an iron remover spray every few months is about all the "maintenance" you need to do.
Only issue then will be, " how far am I away from getting it redone, and how many swirls can I see in the paint" If you don't mind some light swirls (I'm talking about a dark color car), then you've really got nothing to do for years which would suit many busy people and those not as obsessed about the car's finish as some of us. Mind you, even with those light swirls, the coated car will still look better than just about any other car. I just hate to see swirls, personally.
Pure evo is so damn wet & glossy, it gives nothing up to real wax or polymer. I didn't believe it till I did it and lived with it. I do miss applying wax and sealants, but oh well.DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
/// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint
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Originally posted by Tbonem3 View PostWelcome!
To coat or not to coat; a difficult proposition still.
There is no perfectly right answer. For me, it comes down to color of car, if you diy the correction & environment (garaged).
To make it simpler, I would say the only reason not to coat would be if you really wanted to "touch" the car a lot or do light polishes periodically. Maybe you have a garage queen and you love to polish it (super light) twice a year or so and apply a wet looking wax or polymer sealant. Coating wouldn't make as much sense. Price and difficulty of install used to be big factors, but products like Gyeon mohs or pure are very affordable and so easy to apply.
For most people, a 2 year (black car) to 5 year (white/silver) coating is great beaides the cost of not DIYing the correction. You wash it and blow off, don't need to top it or touch it in anyway. Then use an iron remover spray every few months is about all the "maintenance" you need to do.
Only issue then will be, " how far am I away from getting it redone, and how many swirls can I see in the paint" If you don't mind some light swirls (I'm talking about a dark color car), then you've really got nothing to do for years which would suit many busy people and those not as obsessed about the car's finish as some of us. Mind you, even with those light swirls, the coated car will still look better than just about any other car. I just hate to see swirls, personally.
Pure evo is so damn wet & glossy, it gives nothing up to real wax or polymer. I didn't believe it till I did it and lived with it. I do miss applying wax and sealants, but oh well.
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Honestly, if I had a white car (or tiag), I would definietly do a coating (though I'd look at the non sio2 coatings like mohs too) as you just can't see the super fine swirls.
I think a white car is the best candidate for coating due to the aforementioned light swirls AND since white doesn't ever look as deep and wet as black anyway, and the coating will give a very crisp "HD" look.
A black or dark car would be a better candidate for semi annual polishing and applying a sealant that gives the wettest, deepest look.
Of course you can do what ever you please, no wrong answers really as long as the paint is protected.
For spray products - if you're not going to be coating (usually sio2), then I don't see a lot of logic in using the sio2 based "quasi-ceramic" sprays. If you want that technology, just do a true coating.
If you want the car to look the absolute best, with more frequent polishing (jeweling, very light, not removing any real amoutn of clear coat), then I would steer you towards polymers like Sonax PNS, WG deep gloss, jescar powerlock, beadmaker/slipstream/slickNslide/OGdrying aid.
That said, like I mentioned earlier, I can barely see a difference betwen Pure evo and beadmaker. Plus, the high sio2 coatings might only rival a sealant's depth and wetness, but will be even crisper and brighter (esp if they have tio2 with sio2).
I'll also say that products are so good today, you can't go wrong. One of the best sprays out there is from turtle wax for $10 lol. Seal N shine plus ICE looks unreal and it's from one of the cheapest brands around, available at pepboys/autozone etc.
Rather than focus on which sprays, I'd make sure to have other things locked down, like going to the best (softest, most absorbant) 70/30 mf towels versus the ubiquitous 80/20 towels that smear product around and impart fine swirls (esp on softer paint like JDM/USDM). Also, making sure the paint is squeaky clean before you apply whatever product, that is, doing a wipe down with panel cleanser for best bonding.DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
/// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint
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