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    DA Recommendations?

    I want to perform a paint correction on my car soon, but am not too experienced in the detailing world. Started looking online for dual action polishers and there seem to be a ton of different opinions on which one is best (not surprised by this).

    Any recommendations about what to look for when buying one? Or do all of them perform fairly similar and I shouldn't worry too much about getting the best of the best for my first shot at this?
    2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

    2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

    #2
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
    I want to perform a paint correction on my car soon, but am not too experienced in the detailing world. Started looking online for dual action polishers and there seem to be a ton of different opinions on which one is best (not surprised by this).

    Any recommendations about what to look for when buying one? Or do all of them perform fairly similar and I shouldn't worry too much about getting the best of the best for my first shot at this?
    the DA game is starting to become like the cell phone industry. A new "game changer" comes out every other year and you'll be itching to drop another several hundred bucks on a new one. some have higher watts than other, some have a bigger throw... in the end professionals tend to go with the latest toys to save time and make more money. for an average enthusiast, even an outdated $200 polisher would do.

    the harbor freight one seems to be a quality unit which is a bargain after 20% off. They also sell great pads for dirt cheap. IMO that is a great place to start as a novice before you go out there and spend hundreds of dollars on equipment. You'd still get good results with GOOD compound/polishes! Keep in mind, you'll likely use the DA once every few years... unless you have multiple cars or volunteer to do friends/family members cars.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-7...her-56367.html
    Last edited by Maxima SE; 07-05-2020, 01:27 PM.
    2005 Phoenix Yellow M3 Coupe 6spd
    2013 Interlagos Blue M3 Coupe 6spd ZCP, CF roof
    2007 Imola Red Z4M Coupe

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Maxima SE View Post

      the DA game is starting to become like the cell phone industry. A new "game changer" comes out every other year and you'll be itching to drop another several hundred bucks on a new one. some have higher watts than other, some have a bigger throw... in the end professionals tend to go with the latest toys to save time and make more money. for an average enthusiast, even an outdated $200 polisher would do.

      the harbor freight one seems to be a quality unit which is a bargain after 20% off. They also sell great pads for dirt cheap. IMO that is a great place to start as a novice before you go out there and spend hundreds of dollars on equipment. You'd still get good results with GOOD compound/polishes! Keep in mind, you'll likely use the DA once every few years... unless you have multiple cars or volunteer to do friends/family members cars.

      https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-7...her-56367.html
      Thank you for the information!

      That harbor freight polisher seems like a great deal. I'll probably end up going with that.
      2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

      2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

      Comment


        #4
        Great post MaximaSE. It's what I've done. It's all about technique and proper product/process choice. The cheap machines (I repacked mine with fancy grease) and foam pads still work. Though, haven't found mf pads, but Megs are affordable and fantastic (Imo, you need mf pads for this hard paint). You can also just stick to Megs for everything, and it'll look great or experiment with different brands, doesn't matter really.
        DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
        /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
        More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
          Great post MaximaSE. It's what I've done. It's all about technique and proper product/process choice. The cheap machines (I repacked mine with fancy grease) and foam pads still work. Though, haven't found mf pads, but Megs are affordable and fantastic (Imo, you need mf pads for this hard paint). You can also just stick to Megs for everything, and it'll look great or experiment with different brands, doesn't matter really.
          Awesome thanks for the tips. Why did you repack the machine?
          Last edited by heinzboehmer; 07-05-2020, 11:37 PM.
          2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

          2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

          Comment


            #6
            After a bunch of conversations with Larry Kosilla (AMMO NYC) I ended up with a Rupes LHR21. It was a first or second gen, not the newest hotness that had just come out so there was an excellent deal. As Tbone suggested, Meguiars MF pads with Meguiars M100 took out all the swirls and I followed up with a foam pad and M205.

            Best thing you can do is watch a bunch of videos, talk to some detailers or just people with more experience. Buy any decent machine (PC, Flex, Rupes) and try it out. Chances are that you won’t damage the paint unless you go with a super powerful machine or a rotary, so don’t be afraid to give it a go. It took me about 20hrs to compound and polish the whole car, but I was definitely figuring it all out as I went.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by M3tro81 View Post
              After a bunch of conversations with Larry Kosilla (AMMO NYC) I ended up with a Rupes LHR21. It was a first or second gen, not the newest hotness that had just come out so there was an excellent deal. As Tbone suggested, Meguiars MF pads with Meguiars M100 took out all the swirls and I followed up with a foam pad and M205.

              Best thing you can do is watch a bunch of videos, talk to some detailers or just people with more experience. Buy any decent machine (PC, Flex, Rupes) and try it out. Chances are that you won’t damage the paint unless you go with a super powerful machine or a rotary, so don’t be afraid to give it a go. It took me about 20hrs to compound and polish the whole car, but I was definitely figuring it all out as I went.
              Nice. I actually started looking for a machine after watching one of their videos and saw that same one recommended on their website. I've liked all the Ammo products I've used, but that machine is quite expensive, especially for someone with zero paint correction experience.

              But I agree, I'm definitely in the "absorb as much information as possible before doing anything" phase. Guess my original estimate of 10-15 hours might be a bit too optimistic lol.
              2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

              2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

              Comment


                #8
                Repack due to the product having too little plus it being cheap quality leading to seizure.
                DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
                  Repack due to the product having too little plus it being cheap quality leading to seizure.
                  Sounds like something I should look into as well then. What did you use to repack yours?
                  2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                  2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

                    Nice. I actually started looking for a machine after watching one of their videos and saw that same one recommended on their website. I've liked all the Ammo products I've used, but that machine is quite expensive, especially for someone with zero paint correction experience.

                    But I agree, I'm definitely in the "absorb as much information as possible before doing anything" phase. Guess my original estimate of 10-15 hours might be a bit too optimistic lol.
                    10-15 hours for a detail? no way ! If you're going to do it right from the beginning to end then you will be spending 3-5x as much as that. You could use one step polishes like SONAX EX 04-06 or Sonax Cut and Finish to save time but even then you aren't going to get away with 15 hours so plan this accordinly. I recommend you have a variety of compounds (from least to most aggressive) and pads on hand (from soft to hard), in addition to 1500,2000,2500 and 3000 grit sand paper. If you haven't done your homework already, there is plenty of work to do before a DA pad even touches the clear coat. Your game plan should be the following in this order...

                    1) Wash and de-grease vehicle
                    2) chemically decontaminate the surface with a "fall out remover" such as Iron X
                    3) Rinse
                    4) Clay bar the entire car including glass and lights
                    5) Degrease and rinse to get rid of clay bar lubricant oils
                    6) fill in all rock chips with products like Dr. Color chip
                    7) one whole pass over the entire car to get rid of swirls with a mild compound
                    8) correct any left over deeper scratches/ pain defects with more aggressive compound/pad combo
                    9) sand down any remaining really visible scratches and buff
                    10 15% IPA wipe down of the entire car
                    11) one whole pass over the car with a polish to bring out the gloss
                    12) polish tail lights, trim etc
                    13) 15% IPA wipe down of the entire car
                    14) coat the entire car with wax/sealant

                    expect 60-100 hours !
                    2005 Phoenix Yellow M3 Coupe 6spd
                    2013 Interlagos Blue M3 Coupe 6spd ZCP, CF roof
                    2007 Imola Red Z4M Coupe

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Maxima SE View Post

                      10-15 hours for a detail? no way ! If you're going to do it right from the beginning to end then you will be spending 3-5x as much as that. You could use one step polishes like SONAX EX 04-06 or Sonax Cut and Finish to save time but even then you aren't going to get away with 15 hours so plan this accordinly. I recommend you have a variety of compounds (from least to most aggressive) and pads on hand (from soft to hard), in addition to 1500,2000,2500 and 3000 grit sand paper. If you haven't done your homework already, there is plenty of work to do before a DA pad even touches the clear coat. Your game plan should be the following in this order...

                      1) Wash and de-grease vehicle
                      2) chemically decontaminate the surface with a "fall out remover" such as Iron X
                      3) Rinse
                      4) Clay bar the entire car including glass and lights
                      5) Degrease and rinse to get rid of clay bar lubricant oils
                      6) fill in all rock chips with products like Dr. Color chip
                      7) one whole pass over the entire car to get rid of swirls with a mild compound
                      8) correct any left over deeper scratches/ pain defects with more aggressive compound/pad combo
                      9) sand down any remaining really visible scratches and buff
                      10 15% IPA wipe down of the entire car
                      11) one whole pass over the car with a polish to bring out the gloss
                      12) polish tail lights, trim etc
                      13) 15% IPA wipe down of the entire car
                      14) coat the entire car with wax/sealant

                      expect 60-100 hours !
                      Ha, well I clearly have much to learn still. When I said 10-15 hours I was thinking about steps 4 to 11 or so, but having looked into this more I realize that was quite off. I really appreciate the detailed response!
                      2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                      2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Does anybody have any experience with the Porter Cable ?
                        2004 M3 Mystic Blue

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Mystic3 View Post
                          Does anybody have any experience with the Porter Cable ?
                          Way back when the Meguiars machines were made by Porter Cable. I liked mine just fine. Loaned it to may Dad about ten years ago and have not seen it since. He is still using it.

                          Jesse
                          Old, not obsolete.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Is the griot’s random orbital any good? I’ve had this unit for years but it doesn’t seem to have enough bite to clean up the paint. I’ve been using foam pads but should I switch to the MF pad? Ditch the random orbital for something else?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Our hard clear is your issue, not the machine. Everything Griotts is good. Yes, you need some Meg's MF 5.5" pads in yer life.
                              DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                              /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                              More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                              Comment

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