I seem to have roasted my clutch at my last event, probably due to a problem with assembly. After rebuilding my engine, i couldn't get the metal pivot pin all the way seated in the bell housing, it had probably 2mm to go to be fully seated. Seemed like that wouldn't affect anything but maybe i was wrong. Also i never knew i needed to reset the self adjusting clutch before reinstall, so that also could have been my issue. The pedal stayed halfway depressed after a downshift, luckily at the end of the day and the engagement after that was very stiff but it still drove and changed gear....all until putting it on the trailer where it had enough and groaned and blew a huge cloud of clutch smoke just as i got it on the trailer.
Question is what kind of clutch to replace with? I don't make that much more power over stock so i don't necessarily need any friction upgrade, but the SAC and DMF don't seem to be necessary and i don't have any preference for noise or chatter since its track only and is already miserable to drive on the street. So im thinking of doing the SMF and non adjusting clutch kit. Would this be considered preferable on a track car??
Also i know the JB racing and tilton clutches seem to be well liked on here, but i dont want to lighten the fly wheel for the risk of vibration damper problems.
Anyone have any input?
TIA
Question is what kind of clutch to replace with? I don't make that much more power over stock so i don't necessarily need any friction upgrade, but the SAC and DMF don't seem to be necessary and i don't have any preference for noise or chatter since its track only and is already miserable to drive on the street. So im thinking of doing the SMF and non adjusting clutch kit. Would this be considered preferable on a track car??
Also i know the JB racing and tilton clutches seem to be well liked on here, but i dont want to lighten the fly wheel for the risk of vibration damper problems.
Anyone have any input?
TIA
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