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PSA replace you wheel studs yearly

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    #1

    PSA replace you wheel studs yearly

    Exactly two years ago a fellow cca member ended his season by totaling his car when he sheared all his wheel studs going into turn one. His wheel and tire ended up under the car and it was uncotrolable. I have replaced my wheel studs yearly since then. This past weekend, my last event of the season, I had a similar experience with a better ending. I sheared all 5 studs ( my guess is one broke and the other 4 followed) coming onto the front straight. Literally no warning. I was somehow able to keep the car out of the wall but did suffer some damage. These studs had 7 track days on them. Just a warning to inspect and replace studs as if they are a wear item. It seems that there has been quite a few issue with wheels studs as of late and the consequences can be far worse than in experienced.

    for me a few mechanical parts will need to be replaced and obviously some cosmetic but all things considered I could have had a much worse outcome. There is nothing worse than watching your rear wheel pass you down the front straight
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    #2
    Glad you are ok! Appreciate the heads up and good reminder for me to finish changing mine out before CMP next month…

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      #3
      Another vote for bolts from me. Has anyone seen lug bolts fail, actually curious.

      Sent from my HD1905 using Tapatalk

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        #4
        another FCP euro item for me!

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by dl.m3 View Post
          Another vote for bolts from me. Has anyone seen lug bolts fail, actually curious.

          Sent from my HD1905 using Tapatalk
          I had a single bolt fail on a street/track M3 when removing a wheel at home. I never over-torque and do not use an impact wrench.

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by Estoril View Post

            I had a single bolt fail on a street/track M3 when removing a wheel at home. I never over-torque and do not use an impact wrench.
            Same thing happened to me. Except that I use impact to remove only and always hand tightened and torqued to spec. I replace the set every other season.

            Comment

              #7
              Sergmann, I feel your pain. I've been there. Good call.

              Several of us switched to MSI Racing studs: http://www.msirp.com/wheel-studs-index#bmw

              When I swapped to Bimmerworld's racing control arms and the roll center correction kit for the front end, I installed the Core4 Motorsports front hubs with pressed in studs (they use MSI Racing studs) and eventually will do the rear hubs when needed. They offer some tech tips as well: https://www.core4motorsports.com/tech

              BMW Wheel Stud Conversion Kit - Hubs | Core4 Motorsports
              https://www.core4motorsports.com/product-page/core4-e46-m3-ulimtate-press-in-stud-hub-conversion
              ***Check out our new broken stud gallery here*****LUG NUTS ARE NOT INCLUDED** MSI is a leading wheel stud supplier for IMSA, SRO (Pirelli World Challenge), and NASCAR teams. Two different lengths available: up to 12mm wheel spacer, and up to 20mm spacer. Both lengths come with easy start bullet noses (see pictures in gallery). These are the most robustly designed 12mm wheel stud available on the market with 'CT10' dry film lubricant coating to achieve more tension with less torque and to prevent galling (thread damage)*** "WHAT DO I GET?"Your choice of a complete set, fronts only, or rears only of new O.E. supplier FAG brand BMW front and BMW Genuine OEM rear hubs professionally modified on a CNC machine to allow the use of super high-strength (beyond grade 12.9, 185,000+ psi ultimate tensile strength) press-in ARP or proprietary Core4/MSI wheel studs. Hubs come pre-installed with ARP or MSI studs. Don't want to spend money on brand new hubs? SEND YOUR OWN WHEEL HUBS IN TO HAVE STUDS INSTALLED! These aren't just simply drilled. They are machined exactly the same as OEM hubs that come from the factory with press-in studs. The holes are precision machined and inspected, and the backside of the hubs are machined flat to allow the head of the studs to sit correctly without any stress risers from poor perpendicularity with the hub face. It is perfect timing to simply install these on your vehicle during a bearing service and worry much less about your studs breaking whether for a dual duty track car or full blown race car. Hubs come with studs long enough to use a 12mm wheel spacer OR you can opt for a longer stud which will allow the use of a wheel spacer up to 20mm thick. "WHO IS THIS MEANT FOR?"Anyone who wants a endurance racing tested, reliable method of fastening wheels to their car, and keeping them there....literally. Extra peace of mind, less money spent on replacing studs out of paranoia, and a proven track record applies to every BMW enthusiast, whether drifting, tracking, or full blown racing. "WHY WOULD I WANT PRESS-IN STUDS ON MY BMW ANYWAY?"This is a solution to a documented problem in a series that our race team competes in called American Endurance Racing ("AER" www.americanenduranceracing.com), where there's upwards of 25 hours of racing per weekend. That's approximately 15-20 HPDE/track-day's worth of track time in a span of three days. Several teams who have had consistent issues and multiple instances with breaking thread-in studs, and sometimes losing wheels on track (see videos in gallery), have had zero issues to date since switching over to press-in style studs. This is based on the AER database which has cars with multiple 1000's of laps in the last 2-3 years. The only cars that have had failures (and lost wheels) are BMW cars with 12mm size thread-in studs. There hasn't been a single report of a press-in stud failure from cars that come that way from the factory (Mustang, Corvette, Nissan, Honda, etc.) or BMW's that have already been modified to this style utilizing ARP press-in studs that race in AER. Because of the frequency of thread-in stud failures, many BMW owners have been led to believe that it is necessary to service wheel studs at an abnormal rate. Some recommendations as low as 10 hours of track time. STUDS SHOULD NOT NEED TO BE SERVICED BEFORE WHEEL BEARINGS ON A TRACK CAR . The only instance where this may be the case is when the studs are subjected to repeated time sensitive pit-stops with heavy impact equipment. Simple as that. A dual duty track/street car should be able to run the same high quality, high strength ARP or MSI wheel studs for years without worry or up until wheel bearings are serviced. M12 sized fasteners in a thread-in configuration are marginal for the application and more susceptible to failure due to large stress risers at the thread root and shoulder where they install into the hub. Press-in ARP and MSI studs have large un-threaded shanks that have 44% larger cross-sectional area than thread-in studs (more area = more strength!) coming out of the hub from the backside making them much more robust and fatigue resistant without stress concentrations at points of peak stress. Their tolerance to bending and shear loading from race cars generating tons of grip and instances beyond control like loss of pre-load (anything from installation error to plastic deformation of the aluminum wheel at the lug nut interface), debris caught in between wheel and hub, poorly constructed or out of tolerance wheels, is much better than a thread-in. "BUT, THREAD-IN STUDS ARE EASY TO CHANGE IF THEY BREAK..."The only people who make this argument are BMW people who run 12mm thread-in studs. Why? Because they are the only people who break studs at an abnormal rate!Press-in studs CAN easily be serviced on the front of E36 M3/E46 and front and rear on E36 non-M. The front of the car requires the removal of the dust-shield and the rear of the car the e-brake must be removed and the back plate notched a bit for clearance. Remember, you will most likely need to change your wheel bearings before the need to change studs. "WHAT IF I NEED TO CHANGE BEARINGS?"We offer individual front hub assemblies with just machining done or pre-installed with studs, whether for regular maintenance, spares, or precautionary measures. "I JUST ORDERED WHEEL HUBS AND NOW IT'S TOO LATE TO GET THIS DONE!..."STOP RIGHT THERE! Contact us and we can have you ship us your hubs to get the machining service done and studs installed. For those of you with BMW models that have costly rear hubs (i.e.-Z3), we will offer to do the service on used hubs granted they are clean condition.


              Sadly, my left rear stud failure (not MSI Racing studs) at Mid-Ohio is in Core4's web site in their "Gallery of Broken Studs". The photographer at the event caught the entire failure on camera with a series of photos.

              Feff
              MVP Track Time

              Comment

                #8
                I will be looking into the press in options as I rebuild the car. These were fcp studs btw but I’m not sure that matters.

                as for wheel bolts, I’ve seen them fail too. A good friend still runs them on his e36 track car and broke one earlier this year. He replaced all 20 with new OEM stuff and has broken two since.

                im not sure what is happening as of late with the studs but I have seen more failures in the past two years than the previous 10!!
                • Likes 1

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                  #9
                  I've switched to MSI as well and use Castrol Molub-Alloy Paste TA on the cone of the lug nuts before torquing them down to 70 ft-lbs.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Sergmann View Post
                    I will be looking into the press in options as I rebuild the car. These were fcp studs btw but I’m not sure that matters.

                    as for wheel bolts, I’ve seen them fail too. A good friend still runs them on his e36 track car and broke one earlier this year. He replaced all 20 with new OEM stuff and has broken two since.

                    im not sure what is happening as of late with the studs but I have seen more failures in the past two years than the previous 10!!
                    What type of spacers were you running in the rear?

                    Comment

                      #11
                      5mm hubcentric. I don’t remember what brand they are. I have been running those spacers for 5 seasons.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Sergmann View Post
                        5mm hubcentric. I don’t remember what brand they are. I have been running those spacers for 5 seasons.
                        5mm spacers are not hubcentric and they reduce the factory hub bore from 11mm to 6mm. What wheel are you using that requires a 5mm spacer in the rear? One common setup for track use is a 9.5 ET35 with a 12mm spacer, which are hubcentric, to correct the offset. For something like a 9.5 ET22 or 10 ET25, I'd run no spacer on track.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Sergmann View Post
                          5mm hubcentric. I don’t remember what brand they are. I have been running those spacers for 5 seasons.
                          Do a paper test and see if it's making proper contact with the hub+wheel, lots of guys have been snapping studs due to bad spacers.
                          • Likes 2

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Slideways View Post

                            5mm spacers are not hubcentric and they reduce the factory hub bore from 11mm to 6mm. What wheel are you using that requires a 5mm spacer in the rear? One common setup for track use is a 9.5 ET35 with a 12mm spacer, which are hubcentric, to correct the offset. For something like a 9.5 ET22 or 10 ET25, I'd run no spacer on track.

                            my mistake. You are correct they are not hub centric. I run 9.5 ET35 arc8. The spacer is there for rear coil over clearance but most likely not needed. The point about reducing hub bore is a valid one and could have contributed to the stud failure.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Sergmann View Post


                              my mistake. You are correct they are not hub centric. I run 9.5 ET35 arc8. The spacer is there for rear coil over clearance but most likely not needed. The point about reducing hub bore is a valid one and could have contributed to the stud failure.
                              Yeah, based on the APEX website and those who run ET35 9.5 ARC-8s on track, the 12mm hubcentric spacer is the one they use. It'll clear the stock fenders, rear damper and somewhat correct the track width.

                              That being said, be careful with certain 12mm spacers. A forum member mentioned that the KSP spacers are made by the same manufacturer as the APEX spacers. A friend recently purchased a set of the 12mm KSP hubcentric spacers for the rear of his car, and it turned out that the inner hubcentric portion contacted the bore of the rear hub and did not sit completely flush against the hub. The bore on the rear hub most likely would need to be sanded down 1mm for them to fit. He opted for a different 12mm spacer.
                              Last edited by Slideways; 10-11-2021, 12:20 PM.

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