Oil Pump and Lateral G’s

[bigjae46]

I’m pulling about 1.5-1.6 lateral G’s on fresh Toyo RR’s. I imagine it will be a little more if I throw on some Hoosiers.

I imagine as long as oil pressures are good then it’s a non issue. I don’t data log oil pressure. Maybe I should start but wanted to see if there is a known limit.

At what point does the OE oil pump need to be upgraded?

What are the upgrades? I know one is a dry sump. Not opposed to that, just looks complex. Besides all of the components, have to consider vacuum, gaskets, seals, and maybe other things I’m not aware of.


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[BBRTuning]

Interested in this too.

I have been datalogging oil pressure in my ECU for years, and interestingly only recently started having occasional pressure drops in certain dynamic situations. Also interestingly, the drops seemed more significant after switching to a VAC high-volume oil pump. This makes some sense as it’s pumping oil out of the sump more quickly, although the dropouts do seem to happen regardless of RPM.

I don’t see issues in more steady-state lateral G situations (I see average 1.3g or so) but rather a quick transition. So far it only happens when going left-to-right, such as a chicane, (not right-to-left), or under heavy braking transitioning into a right turn.

The problem just about goes away if I run the oil level ~1/2 quart above the full mark.

[F1Dryvr]

What about an accu sump. I bought one to pre oil before first-starting my engine rebuild, but can be plumbed to function as an oil reserve for low oil pressure starvation situations. Morrosso has one and several youtube videos on how they might help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyaGoj60A6s

[bigjae46]

What about an accu sump. I bought one to pre oil before first-starting my engine rebuild, but can be plumbed to function as an oil reserve for low oil pressure starvation situations. Morrosso has one and several youtube videos on how they might help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyaGoj60A6s

Interesting. I guess you could just plumb it into the oil filter housing. There are 2 ports on the backside.

My issues is I have the OE pressure switch and a remote line for a pressure gauge and a 20psi pressure switch which is connected to a siren. But…I’m sure I can figure something out.

I wonder if the witches hat in the oil pan can be resigned to have one way doors so it allows oil into the hat where the pickup tube is but doesn’t allow anything out.

The oil accumulator looks like is should hold enough oil - a qt and a half or so?


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[bigjae46]

Interested in this too.

I have been datalogging oil pressure in my ECU for years, and interestingly only recently started having occasional pressure drops in certain dynamic situations. Also interestingly, the drops seemed more significant after switching to a VAC high-volume oil pump. This makes some sense as it’s pumping oil out of the sump more quickly, although the dropouts do seem to happen regardless of RPM.

I don’t see issues in more steady-state lateral G situations (I see average 1.3g or so) but rather a quick transition. So far it only happens when going left-to-right, such as a chicane, (not right-to-left), or under heavy braking transitioning into a right turn.

The problem just about goes away if I run the oil level ~1/2 quart above the full mark.

I’d rather not overfill. I have oil temp issues if I’m near the top mark on the dipstick on hot days. If I keep it around half then I stay around 250-270 which is good enough for me.


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[Fresh1179]

Interested in this too.

I have been datalogging oil pressure in my ECU for years, and interestingly only recently started having occasional pressure drops in certain dynamic situations. Also interestingly, the drops seemed more significant after switching to a VAC high-volume oil pump. This makes some sense as it’s pumping oil out of the sump more quickly, although the dropouts do seem to happen regardless of RPM.

I don’t see issues in more steady-state lateral G situations (I see average 1.3g or so) but rather a quick transition. So far it only happens when going left-to-right, such as a chicane, (not right-to-left), or under heavy braking transitioning into a right turn.

The problem just about goes away if I run the oil level ~1/2 quart above the full mark.

What data logger are you running? I am probably wrong but my AIM doesn’t have the ability to log oil pressure. Did you use one of the “blocks” they sell to tap into the rear of the oil filter housing to run a sensor to your logger?


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[Fresh1179]

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[F1Dryvr]

Interesting. I guess you could just plumb it into the oil filter housing. There are 2 ports on the backside.

My issues is I have the OE pressure switch and a remote line for a pressure gauge and a 20psi pressure switch which is connected to a siren. But…I’m sure I can figure something out.

Yeah I have the same dilemma. Plumbing and clearance and keeping the emergency lights is a tough problem in that area, ive spent hours searching for a plumbing solution there. I dont need oil starvation help but want to plumb something for preoiling since the car sits for long periods of time between starts. That is the access for the accusump though through the OFH. I tested this with the valve cover off and it definitely feeds oil to all the channels including up into the cams and down on the bearings if its pressurized appropriately. To preoil i just disconnect my oil pressure sender which is mounted via a -4AN hose remotely because of clearance. THis is quite a pain bc i have to remove the airbox to do it usually.

I wonder if the witches hat in the oil pan can be resigned to have one way doors so it allows oil into the hat where the pickup tube is but doesn’t allow anything out.

The oil accumulator looks like is should hold enough oil - a qt and a half or so?

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Yeah I have the same dilemma. Plumbing and clearance and keeping the emergency lights is a tough problem in that area, ive spent hours searching for a plumbing solution there. I dont need oil starvation help but want to plumb something for preoiling since the car sits for long periods of time between starts. That is the access for the accusump though through the OFH. I tested this with the valve cover off and it definitely feeds oil to all the channels including up into the cams and down on the bearings if its pressurized appropriately. To preoil i just disconnect my oil pressure sender which is mounted via a -4AN hose remotely because of clearance. THis is quite a pain bc i have to remove the airbox to do it usually.

I will say that distribution block from BW was a waste of money. It had clearance issues and took several tries and multiple new crush washers to get the thing to not leak, eventually the bolt stripped. I currently have one that came from aktiv autowerks but its only one outlet for my pressure gauge. Id like to try one from the other brands.

A quart and a half capacity sounds about right, there are several on the market with different capacities. I will say this would probably solve the problem, but its big and heavy, probably 3 or 4lbs full then the plumbing to inside the car(i dont know another mounting solution), also filled with oil will add some weight.

[BBRTuning]

What data logger are you running? I am probably wrong but my AIM doesn’t have the ability to log oil pressure. Did you use one of the “blocks” they sell to tap into the rear of the oil filter housing to run a sensor to your logger?


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I'm logging it in a Motec ECU that's running the car (I'll be offering these as a kit soon!). Below is how I have oil pressure and oil temp sensors plumbed. Added an oil temp sensor to read true oil temp (although it will be a bit lower at this location) since the factory sensor doesn't do a very good job being a current-sensing heating element style, and is subject to error when not fully bathed in oil such as in high G turns. The factory oil temp gauge is only a rough approximation of actual oil temp as well. Ignore the IG text, it's the only pic of the install I have.. The large hex plug near the bottom can be drilled/tapped to use as an additional sensor location.