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    Setting up adjustable front control arms

    Hi, looking for some suggestions on setting up the AKG control arms. Below is a picture of a mocked up pass (right) side one - I have been told to start by setting the A length to stock control arm 14.5".

    What is the best way to measure the wheel centerline with the stock control arm on the car, so I am able to set length B back to that position?

    Idea I've had so far is to run a straight edge from the two front bolts on the stock control arm, mark the edge on the subframe, then turn rear rod B until I reach that same position. Curious if anybody has a better way to measure the position of the hub relative to the subframe so as to verify it is back to the same position.

    Once on an alignment rack I can have the tech turn them a bit more if necessary to bring the caster back to the old setting.

    Appreciate any input,
    -Rudy

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_4055.jpg Views:	0 Size:	118.8 KB ID:	163738
    Last edited by CrookedCommie; 04-19-2022, 05:47 AM.

    #2
    Subbed…I didn’t even know they offered these. Thinking I will need to replace my front control arms before long and these might be a good candidate.


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      #3
      AKG also got back to me and verified that once you set length A, install rear rod, set the length, then verify caster back to what you had it before on the alignment rack. I'll keep this thread updated once I make some progress and how they work on track.
      -Rudy

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        #4
        I'd be interested to see how these work out.

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          #5
          I installed them, but ran into one small issue, the rear track rod did not work with my wheel and suspension setup, so AKG sent me a 12 inch track rod (the kit came with a 13"). I adjusted that one to have the wheel just tuck into the rear fender when turned. On the alignment rack we set the caster back to 7.5 degrees.

          I ran Falken RT660's on track, initial impressions are amazing. The car does not understeer anymore. Going through carousel at Mid Ohio is brilliant now. I had to cut the weekend a bit short as we must not have tightened one of the track rods well enough, and the nut backed out. I'll be redoing the alignment and really locking them in place, and then using torque paint to make sure they stay locked in.

          AKG support is amazing and they were very helpful. I also installed their bump steer tie rods at the same time. The through bolts are massive 12.9 and the hardware fit well into the hub and subframe.

          I will likely refresh the hardware every few years. These are track parts and will time out on slicks.
          Attached Files

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            #6
            What is the weight difference between these and stock?

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              #7
              Why did you choose these AKG ones over other options like the SLR race setup? I've looked at both for years on other platforms but have never pulled the trigger.

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                #8
                Originally posted by Jersey_M3 View Post
                What is the weight difference between these and stock?
                I didn't weigh them, since that wasn't the primary motivator of getting these, but AKG lists these at 14 lbs.

                Originally posted by S14 View Post
                Why did you choose these AKG ones over other options like the SLR race setup? I've looked at both for years on other platforms but have never pulled the trigger.
                These have no welds, the SLR is still welded similar to the BW and VAC.

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                  #9
                  Are these still working well for you? Just found them as an option on these cars and am curious. I run at Mid-Ohio a couple times a year with NASA Great Lakes and know the fight in Carousel.

                  Do you think the reduction of understeer is due to the camber gained from these, or do they have an inherent roll center correction? I've been running the SLR Mini Kit for a while for roll center correction, but would like to be able to adjust the lower arm for camber and caster as well.

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                    #10
                    Only ran them for a limited time before the car went into a concrete wall at 60mph. The new build is getting another set though, as well as the AKG bump steer tie rods.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by CrookedCommie View Post
                      Only ran them for a limited time before the car went into a concrete wall at 60mph. The new build is getting another set though, as well as the AKG bump steer tie rods.
                      Glad you're alright!

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by Weste46 View Post
                        .....Do you think the reduction of understeer is due to the camber gained from these, or do they have an inherent roll center correction? I've been running the SLR Mini Kit for a while for roll center correction, but would like to be able to adjust the lower arm for camber and caster as well.
                        I run the Bimmerworld version of the control arms and can attest they too work very well. I feel it's because the roll-center has been corrected with the lowered cars.

                        Feff


                        MVP Track Time

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                          #13
                          This looks like another interesting option as well, and keeps the stock aluminum arms. Haven't heard anyone using it though.
                          Why do you need one? When lowering your car (BMW E30 / E36 / E46 etc.) the front end geometry goes wrong. The main purpose of the kit is to correct these geometry issues.The extended mounting stud changes control arm pivot point vertical distance by 20mm correcting the roll-center and camber curve. Tie rod end pivot point is also changed by 20mm in vertical direction which corrects the bump steer curve. Does it fit my car? The kit can be combined with most of the E30 / E36 / E46 control arms and knuckles/spindles. See available variations: Outer joint size: 41mm (E30 non-M / E36 M3) 48.5mm (E36 non-M / E46 M-Sport / E46 aftermarket) 50mm (E46 OEM factory) 33mm (E46 M3 / Z4M) thread tool included ** Spindle/knuckle: E30 non-M E36 / Z3 non-M E36 M3 3.0 E36 M3 3.2 / Z3M E46 / Z4 non-M E46 M3 / Z4M Is it easy to install? The kit comes with instructions, if you know how to change a control arm or an outer joint, installing this kit is basically not any harder. You'll need a press for removing the old outer joint and installing the new outer joint, no other special tools needed. If you need any further info please contact us! How about the lifetime and service of the kit? The kits have been proven on street and track applications by hundreds of our customers. We're constantly doing R&D to make the kits even better, all improvements are based on customer feedback which is very important to us.We have proven the very same bearings with no maintenance for 20,000 kilometers, through the year, in daily use without signs of excessive wear. When the bearing life comes to an end, they're easily replaceable! Bearings are available around the world from automotive and industrial dealers and any of the spare parts can be also bought separately from us. We want to keep our customers 100% happy thus we're only using the best materials and manufacturing processes available. All parts are CNC machined: aluminum parts are aerospace grade AW-7075 with hard anodized finish (silver and black), mounting studs are made of highest quality CrMo tool steel and small spacers/adapters used on the kits are 316L stainless steel. We use DHL Express shipping for all items. Please find your order tracking information from DHL website.

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