I too tried HPS pads on track. Didn’t last a weekend. So you’re not the only one...lol.
I could use one pad for street and track...but I have brake cooling and my car only weighs 2700lbs (no fuel, no driver). But most will need a dedicated pad for track.
The problem with using a street pad on the track is what you’re experiencing.
The problem with a track pad on the street is you will wear out rotors really fast and you will likely lose a lot of bite. Cold track pads are extremely abrasive.
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Fairly certain they're different even though the pads are the same, I'm guessing to accommodate the different upright between the cars. Otherwise I'd be happy to take the off your handsOriginally posted by CrookedCommie View PostI've had brand new slide pins loosen up over a weekend - your call. Not sure if the 330 carriers are the same as M3. Wouldn't be much to ship just those.
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I've had brand new slide pins loosen up over a weekend - your call. Not sure if the 330 carriers are the same as M3. Wouldn't be much to ship just those.
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Appreciate it but I have a 330. The caliper to upright bolts are fine, the ones for the slide pins are not and don't require a ton of torque to tighten. It's more so a convenience thing at this point with swapping back and forth between 2 sets of padsOriginally posted by CrookedCommie View PostIf you have helicoils holding your caliper retaining bolts, please don't put the car on track. I've got a spare rebuilt front set with the caliper carriers I took off the track car, pay shipping and they are yours. PM me.
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If you have helicoils holding your caliper retaining bolts, please don't put the car on track. I've got a spare rebuilt front set with the caliper carriers I took off the track car, pay shipping and they are yours. PM me.
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Yeah, lol, do that. I've never had good results with Helicoils -- they seem to be one-way, and come out in pieces when I try to take the bolt out. I swear by Timeserts now (http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html). But that's a lot of effort and money when the easiest thing to do is just buy some carriers on eBay.Originally posted by timmo View PostThing is I was hoping to run 1 pad for street driving (only spring/summer/early fall) and track, since my front caliper carrier slide pin threads are stripped and repaired with helicoil, and sometimes when I remove the slide pins, a helicoil or two may come with them. And since they're M9 thread, they're hard to come across. But really I just have to get off my lazy ass and source cheap used caliper carriers as replacements
I know you're trying to use FCP to get free pads, but they really don't have a good selection. I've seen DS1.11 pads pop up once in a while on there, but they don't appear to have them in their catalog for most fitments. Fix your carrier situation, buy track pads, swap them out. It takes almost no time at all, even with sliding calipers. I'm also a huge proponent of taking your time and checking everything in there while you're swapping pads.
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Originally posted by Apex_80 View PostI look at it this way - you can run a track pad on the street but it will be annoying (loud and not as responsive) and also potentially hard on rotors. On the other hand you definitely can't run a street pad on the track as its a safety issue. With your replacements being free from FCP I don't see rotor life being a problem.
Track pads on the street squeal a ton, most don't work well when not up to temp (safety issue), and the dust (of which there's a lot more than a street pad) is terrible for the finish on wheels.
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I look at it this way - you can run a track pad on the street but it will be annoying (loud and not as responsive) and also potentially hard on rotors. On the other hand you definitely can't run a street pad on the track as its a safety issue. With your replacements being free from FCP I don't see rotor life being a problem.
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Yeah, some of the reading I've done online concurs with what you say. I'm running RS4s.Originally posted by r4dr View PostDS2500 are barely track pads IMO. Not sure what tires you're running but I'd expect even 200TW tires to give them a workout. I've ran their equivalent on a GT350 with Super Sports and while they don't fade completely, they do lose a fair bit of bite and disappear before your eyes.
But they don't smear so I guess you'll have that going for you?
Thing is I was hoping to run 1 pad for street driving (only spring/summer/early fall) and track, since my front caliper carrier slide pin threads are stripped and repaired with helicoil, and sometimes when I remove the slide pins, a helicoil or two may come with them. And since they're M9 thread, they're hard to come across. But really I just have to get off my lazy ass and source cheap used caliper carriers as replacements
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DS2500 are barely track pads IMO. Not sure what tires you're running but I'd expect even 200TW tires to give them a workout. I've ran their equivalent on a GT350 with Super Sports and while they don't fade completely, they do lose a fair bit of bite and disappear before your eyes.
But they don't smear so I guess you'll have that going for you?
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As everyone has said, you've overheated your pads.
Time for track pads-- front and rear.
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The pad compound smearing looks like the pad temperature exceeded it's MOT. Which is not hard to believe with the HPS.
Run same pad compound front and rear - and I strongly recommend against using HPS on a track.
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Using a pad in the rear that is not made for aggressive braking might be a false sense of economy. An improper pad can actually generate more heat and be worse on rotor wear. As you get faster, the correct pad will probably be cheaper in the long run. The excess heat and rotor wear will result in more frequent placement of your rotors and perhaps even other components like your wheel bearings if you are really overheating the rear end.Originally posted by timmo View Post
This could be it - this was my first outing with coilovers, that plus cooler weather and better driving resulted in going from a 1:29.1 to a 1:25.9. Do you guys know if running different compounds front/rear messes with the brake bias too much? I'm thinking of keeping HPS in the rear (to keep costs down) since there's a ton of meat left on my 1st set, and getting DTC-60s on the front next year.
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