$23,000
Build journal for the car, for the last 10 years: https://www.m5board.com/threads/obio...roject.322426/
I’ve kind of stopped updating it in recent times because it was getting repetitive after 10 years, as I was doing the same thing twice (e.g. who needs to see pictures of a second round of timing chain guide replacement)… but there’s still a good portion of the cars history in there.
Full size/full quality zip of all the pictures below can be downloaded here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/e1bju9ubo3...0sale.zip?dl=0
For sale is our 2001 M5. Let’s start with the bad— this car is a rebuild title. That said, it is a rebuild title not because of a crash, but because of electronic issues the dealer could not fix. This was actually what caused me to buy the car. I fixed them, 100,000+ miles/10 years ago, and they have not returned.
Sale of the car, assuming it goes near asking price, will include the stock 18s, as well as the RG-Rs.
Maintenance:
This car has been serving as our garaged daily driver for the last decade. I also maintained it for the previous owner, so I’ve been responsible for it since ~150,000 miles. In that time, I have maintained it to this schedule, using OE BMW fluids in all locations:
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ockdown-thread
Cliffs:
Every 7750 OBC "miles" (which is really every 5000 odometer miles)
-Oil change (including filter)
n.b.: oil changes should be done yearly, even if you don't make it to the OBC mileage target. Combustion byproducts get in the oil that degrade it with time, in addition to the degradation of use.
Every OBC Inspection Interval (so every other OBC service interval reset):
-Trans fluid
-Diff fluid
-cabin air filter
-engine air filter
-fuel filter
-power steering fluid (ATF)
Every other OBC inspection interval:
-Coolant (BMW coolant mixed 50:50 with distilled water)
-spark plugs
-belts
Beyond the basic maintenance, I strongly believe in addressing things before they fail (or, if something does fail, addressing every part of the car in that area). To that end, I have gone pretty nuts on every aspect of the car. Every control arm/bushing/bearing/ball joint of the suspension has been replaced, every seal on the engine has been replaced, the timing chain system has been replaced, oil separators have been replaced, the VANOS system has received a full Beisan service, and all the transmission wear items have been replaced. In more detail…
Preventative maintenance (as in, these are things I replace before they fail, to keep the car driving like, and as reliable as, new):
Front Axle:
Lft traction strut without rubb.mounting
Rght traction.strut without rubb.mountng
wishbone, right
wishbone, left
wheel bearings
sway bar bushings
sway bar end links
shocks (“dinan” koni yellow)
Rear Axle:
Subframe mounts
Diff mounts
Integral links (left and right)
Wishbones (left and right)
control arm (left and right)
Ball joints
Swing arms (left and right)
sway bar bushings
sway bar brackets
sway bar end links
diff input shaft seal
diff output shaft seals
Engine:
rod bearings
oil pan gasket
full beisan VANOS rebuild
All coils (and plugs)
Pre cat 02s
Timing chain guides and tensioner
all front case seals
idlers/tensioners/belts
Valve cover gasket and all associated bolt gaskets
PCV system
Pre cat O2 sensors
engine mounts
cam positions sensors (and seals)
throttle position sensors (and seals)
water pump
thermostat
Trans:
Clutch
pressure plate
fly wheel
rear main seal
trans input shaft seal
shifter selector rod seal
trans output shaft seal
pilot bearing (technically this part actually failed, at ~200,000 miles, which set me off the trans area refresh project)
throw out bearing
pivot pin
clutch fork
trans mounts
shifter bushings and cup
guibo
center support bearing
Modifications:
Automatic headlights (from later e39s)
Euro Dash
Euro Center Arm rest
Storage box cuph holder
“Dinan” Koni Yellows
Stoptech ST40 front BBK
18” BBS RG-Rs (stock wheels can also be included)
GAS monoball front control arms
Evo XR 2.0 Projectors in OE euro (clear) headlight housings
Stealth 1
Laser Interceptor laser jammer
Blue Bus
MKIV
BM53 retrofit (with Carphonics upgraded BM53)
e60 washer jet nozzles
Dinan diff mount reenforcement
What’s wrong with the car:
Overall the car is in great condition. Drives like new, no dead pixels, no lights on the dash, no fluid leaks. Basically there’s three issues
1) Seats— it has the e39 seat twist issue (it’s straight in our normal seat position, so we’ve been ignoring it), there is a torn stitch on the driver’s seat, and the seat heaters are not working.
2) It suffered the e39 gas door rust issue. I addressed it such that it’s no longer rusting (ground away the rust, primed, painted), but it does not look like factory new paint there.
3) small dent between the trunk lid and the bumper
Pics:
IMG_0781.jpg IMG_4036.jpg IMG_4037.jpg IMG_4038.jpg IMG_4039.jpg IMG_4040.jpg IMG_4041.jpg IMG_4042.jpg IMG_4043.jpg IMG_4044.jpg IMG_4045.jpg IMG_4046.jpg IMG_4047.jpg IMG_4048.jpg IMG_4049.jpg IMG_4050.jpg IMG_4051.jpg IMG_4052.jpg IMG_4053.jpg IMG_4054.jpg IMG_4055.jpg IMG_4056.jpg IMG_4058.jpg IMG_4059.jpg IMG_4060.jpg IMG_4061.jpg IMG_4064.jpg IMG_4065.jpg IMG_4066.jpg IMG_4067.jpg IMG_4069.jpg IMG_4070.jpg IMG_4071.jpg IMG_4072.jpg IMG_4073.jpg IMG_4075.jpg IMG_4076.jpg IMG_4077.jpg IMG_4078.jpg IMG_4079.jpg IMG_4080.jpg IMG_4081.jpg IMG_4082.jpg IMG_4083.jpg IMG_4084.jpg IMG_4087.jpg IMG_4088.jpg IMG_4089.jpg IMG_4090.jpg IMG_4093.jpg IMG_4094.jpg IMG_4095.jpg IMG_4096.jpg IMG_4097.jpg IMG_4100.jpg IMG_4101.jpg IMG_4102.jpg IMG_4103.jpg IMG_4104.jpg IMG_4105.jpg IMG_4106.jpg
Build journal for the car, for the last 10 years: https://www.m5board.com/threads/obio...roject.322426/
I’ve kind of stopped updating it in recent times because it was getting repetitive after 10 years, as I was doing the same thing twice (e.g. who needs to see pictures of a second round of timing chain guide replacement)… but there’s still a good portion of the cars history in there.
Full size/full quality zip of all the pictures below can be downloaded here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/e1bju9ubo3...0sale.zip?dl=0
For sale is our 2001 M5. Let’s start with the bad— this car is a rebuild title. That said, it is a rebuild title not because of a crash, but because of electronic issues the dealer could not fix. This was actually what caused me to buy the car. I fixed them, 100,000+ miles/10 years ago, and they have not returned.
Sale of the car, assuming it goes near asking price, will include the stock 18s, as well as the RG-Rs.
Maintenance:
This car has been serving as our garaged daily driver for the last decade. I also maintained it for the previous owner, so I’ve been responsible for it since ~150,000 miles. In that time, I have maintained it to this schedule, using OE BMW fluids in all locations:
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ockdown-thread
Cliffs:
Every 7750 OBC "miles" (which is really every 5000 odometer miles)
-Oil change (including filter)
n.b.: oil changes should be done yearly, even if you don't make it to the OBC mileage target. Combustion byproducts get in the oil that degrade it with time, in addition to the degradation of use.
Every OBC Inspection Interval (so every other OBC service interval reset):
-Trans fluid
-Diff fluid
-cabin air filter
-engine air filter
-fuel filter
-power steering fluid (ATF)
Every other OBC inspection interval:
-Coolant (BMW coolant mixed 50:50 with distilled water)
-spark plugs
-belts
Beyond the basic maintenance, I strongly believe in addressing things before they fail (or, if something does fail, addressing every part of the car in that area). To that end, I have gone pretty nuts on every aspect of the car. Every control arm/bushing/bearing/ball joint of the suspension has been replaced, every seal on the engine has been replaced, the timing chain system has been replaced, oil separators have been replaced, the VANOS system has received a full Beisan service, and all the transmission wear items have been replaced. In more detail…
Preventative maintenance (as in, these are things I replace before they fail, to keep the car driving like, and as reliable as, new):
Front Axle:
Lft traction strut without rubb.mounting
Rght traction.strut without rubb.mountng
wishbone, right
wishbone, left
wheel bearings
sway bar bushings
sway bar end links
shocks (“dinan” koni yellow)
Rear Axle:
Subframe mounts
Diff mounts
Integral links (left and right)
Wishbones (left and right)
control arm (left and right)
Ball joints
Swing arms (left and right)
sway bar bushings
sway bar brackets
sway bar end links
diff input shaft seal
diff output shaft seals
Engine:
rod bearings
oil pan gasket
full beisan VANOS rebuild
All coils (and plugs)
Pre cat 02s
Timing chain guides and tensioner
all front case seals
idlers/tensioners/belts
Valve cover gasket and all associated bolt gaskets
PCV system
Pre cat O2 sensors
engine mounts
cam positions sensors (and seals)
throttle position sensors (and seals)
water pump
thermostat
Trans:
Clutch
pressure plate
fly wheel
rear main seal
trans input shaft seal
shifter selector rod seal
trans output shaft seal
pilot bearing (technically this part actually failed, at ~200,000 miles, which set me off the trans area refresh project)
throw out bearing
pivot pin
clutch fork
trans mounts
shifter bushings and cup
guibo
center support bearing
Modifications:
Automatic headlights (from later e39s)
Euro Dash
Euro Center Arm rest
Storage box cuph holder
“Dinan” Koni Yellows
Stoptech ST40 front BBK
18” BBS RG-Rs (stock wheels can also be included)
GAS monoball front control arms
Evo XR 2.0 Projectors in OE euro (clear) headlight housings
Stealth 1
Laser Interceptor laser jammer
Blue Bus
MKIV
BM53 retrofit (with Carphonics upgraded BM53)
e60 washer jet nozzles
Dinan diff mount reenforcement
What’s wrong with the car:
Overall the car is in great condition. Drives like new, no dead pixels, no lights on the dash, no fluid leaks. Basically there’s three issues
1) Seats— it has the e39 seat twist issue (it’s straight in our normal seat position, so we’ve been ignoring it), there is a torn stitch on the driver’s seat, and the seat heaters are not working.
2) It suffered the e39 gas door rust issue. I addressed it such that it’s no longer rusting (ground away the rust, primed, painted), but it does not look like factory new paint there.
3) small dent between the trunk lid and the bumper
Pics:
IMG_0781.jpg IMG_4036.jpg IMG_4037.jpg IMG_4038.jpg IMG_4039.jpg IMG_4040.jpg IMG_4041.jpg IMG_4042.jpg IMG_4043.jpg IMG_4044.jpg IMG_4045.jpg IMG_4046.jpg IMG_4047.jpg IMG_4048.jpg IMG_4049.jpg IMG_4050.jpg IMG_4051.jpg IMG_4052.jpg IMG_4053.jpg IMG_4054.jpg IMG_4055.jpg IMG_4056.jpg IMG_4058.jpg IMG_4059.jpg IMG_4060.jpg IMG_4061.jpg IMG_4064.jpg IMG_4065.jpg IMG_4066.jpg IMG_4067.jpg IMG_4069.jpg IMG_4070.jpg IMG_4071.jpg IMG_4072.jpg IMG_4073.jpg IMG_4075.jpg IMG_4076.jpg IMG_4077.jpg IMG_4078.jpg IMG_4079.jpg IMG_4080.jpg IMG_4081.jpg IMG_4082.jpg IMG_4083.jpg IMG_4084.jpg IMG_4087.jpg IMG_4088.jpg IMG_4089.jpg IMG_4090.jpg IMG_4093.jpg IMG_4094.jpg IMG_4095.jpg IMG_4096.jpg IMG_4097.jpg IMG_4100.jpg IMG_4101.jpg IMG_4102.jpg IMG_4103.jpg IMG_4104.jpg IMG_4105.jpg IMG_4106.jpg
Comment