DIY: Vanos Removal and Installation

[m3f_JSimmons]

M3Cosmos95,



Great write-up man. I just purchased my '95 and replacing the vanos is something that has the honor of being first on the "to-do" list. This is a great confidence builder for me.



Just need to start collecting the manuals, BMW specific tools and parts. Then I'll be taking the plunge.

[m3f_M3cosmos95]

M3Cosmos95,



Great write-up man. I just purchased my '95 and replacing the vanos is something that has the honor of being first on the "to-do" list. This is a great confidence builder for me.



Just need to start collecting the manuals, BMW specific tools and parts. Then I'll be taking the plunge.

Thanks man! sucks that you have to replace the vanos on your new car though



definitely invest in the Bentley Manual for our cars...most useful thing i have for the car.



Hopefully by then I'll have have finished the re installation part.

[m3f_egebhardt]

I have done it with and without the timing pin tool, the results were the same for me. I would say that if the dr. vanos kit you are getting say not to use it, go with that. Timing the gears isn't hard at all, pelican parts has a few pics but i used the ones in my Bentley book to get it exactly right. The first time i did this i used several different diy guides and found what worked right.

Great! I'll ignore the timing pin tool. It will save time and money. Thanks for the response.



On a side note, I asked Chris at DrVanos if I should replace the primary chain tensioner at 170,000 miles. He said no. Spend that extra money on the StageII instead. Those hydraulic primary chain tensioners RARELY wear out.

[m3f_M3cosmos95]

Great! I'll ignore the timing pin tool. It will save time and money. Thanks for the response.



On a side note, I asked Chris at DrVanos if I should replace the primary chain tensioner at 170,000 miles. He said no. Spend that extra money on the StageII instead. Those hydraulic primary chain tensioners RARELY wear out.

i replaced mine the first time i did this...but it was purely precautionary. The new one i bought had a retaining clip so that it did the same job as the special pin. If your not hearing any noise then there is really no point. plus its not like the primary tensioner is hard to change. Just make sure you swap out the secondary tensioner, i made that mistake and had to redo it 6 months later

[m3f_JSimmons]

M3Cosmos95,



I'm not too worried about the vanos replacement. I knew what I was getting into when I bought the car. It is just an exercise in self-control right now to not mash on the skinny pedal for fear of having a vanos implosion.



BTW - Some of those specialty tools are pricey! That cam lock from Pelican Parts is almost $150 but I suppose it is well worth it when you consider the alternative of having a DOHC BMW engine being completely backwards.

[m3f_JPoland]

yes, you can make your own if you have a machine shop.



the "sheet metal" cam lock blocks should not be used. You gotta be kidding me Rich

[m3f_das borgen]

yes, you can make your own if you have a machine shop.



the "sheet metal" cam lock blocks should not be used. You gotta be kidding me Rich

yes, it s a bad idea to use sheetmetal....something solid should be used

[m3f_OahuMPower]

solid = thick metal = machine shop

[m3f_I3MW]

solid = thick metal = machine shop

Definitely agree. But it's worth mentioning to folks that want to try it, you really need a quality mill, and some decent machining experience or at least CNC.

[m3f_genuity]

Damn, this is an awesome writeup and clear macro pictures to boot! Props to the OP

[m3f_bitterbeanbmw]

v nice! I've been thinking about doing this myself...i had my vanos replaced a couple years ago and it sounds as horrible as ever, haha. I can't stand it and don't feel like paying the shop to do it again...I am planning on replacing it w/ a Dr. Vanos unit, since the BMW-refurb that my shop put in made a mediocor difference...what are you replacing it with?

Have you replaced your vanos yet? Just wondering because I am about to put a used unit on myself. Do you need the tools he was talking about? Thanks for any help.

[m3f_JokerElite]

When I try to remove the vanos unit from the head the part that goes to the cam is holding it in place. I'm able to turn the part slightly to either side but it won't come off. Any ideas?

[m3f_BavarianPower]

Turn clockwise and wiggle the vanos ( 2 people job ) ... it should come out...


This is a great write up. I just followed it and rebuilt my vanos !!


Thanks

[m3f_egebhardt]

Nice job. You have a lot of wrenching background, which obviously helped.

[m3f_haus]

Your cams would be "TDC" but your bottom end will not be. The locking pin holds the crank at TDC, without it, you rely solely on your ability to "line up" the TDC marks.

Thank you. I definitely need to spend more time understanding how these pieces link together.



And sorry to natcon67 for thread-jacking. Returning to that question, on a '99, shouldn't all those holes have studs sticking out? In his image the 2nd and 4th "holes" appear to be missing the studs, and he mentioned bolts, but I thought they should all have studs. Hopefully Beisan is OK with me linking to one of their images: