[DIY] Front Control Arms & Bushings

[m3f_PurduinaM3]

Ok cool.



But I'm still wondering why you're replacing the actual control arms themselves [as oppposed to just the bushings]. They don't seem like a part that's likely to wear out - I mean, don't the bushings absorb the majority of the stress?

There are two balljoints that attach to the control arms that are virtually impossible to replace by themselves, and BMW doesnt even sell them individually. In order to replace these, you have to buy the entire control arm instead.

[m3f_TGBimmer]

Ok cool.



But I'm still wondering why you're replacing the actual control arms themselves [as oppposed to just the bushings]. They don't seem like a part that's likely to wear out - I mean, don't the bushings absorb the majority of the stress?

Yup. when i finished mine, i looked at the control arms i was throwing away and they were perfectly fine. just the ball joints were bad. that's the way it is.

[m3f_TGBimmer]

& yeah I live in Savannah. Did you know we got drenched or something?

i just recognized the marshland/river backdrop in your photos. bet it's hot and humid down there. like a jungle.

[m3f_PBR]

There are two balljoints that attach to the control arms that are virtually impossible to replace by themselves, and BMW doesnt even sell them individually. In order to replace these, you have to buy the entire control arm instead.

I'm guessing you're referring to #3 in this diagram?







really? Nobody sells just the bushing part of this? You gotta be kidding me...

[m3f_thedood]

really? Nobody sells just the bushing part of this? You gotta be kidding me...

regular 3 series arms have replaceable ball joints, but the M3 joint is pressed directly into the arm & cannot be replaced on its own; there is no separate part number.

[m3f_PurduinaM3]

Yup, what he said.

[m3f_thedood]

Post #2 updated.

[m3f_epj3]

I'm guessing you're referring to #3 in this diagram?





really? Nobody sells just the bushing part of this? You gotta be kidding me...

part 3 IS the control arm. Balljoints are not replaceable, easy as that. You replace control arms every 75k miles, its not a big deal.

[m3f_CREGO]

Here's a picture of almost everything I needed:





Items, as pictured from left to right:

-Shop towels

-Q-tips

-Control Arm(s), P/Ns 31122228461 (L) & 31122228462 (R)

-FCA Hex Nut 1, P/N 31121095420 (x2)

-FCA Hex Nut 2, P/N 32211095267 (x2)

-PB Blaster

-White Lithium Grease (or WD40)

-Loctite Blue (medium)

-Dimple Pin

-Rubber Mallet

-Pickle Fork

-Small (Craftsman) Gear Puller

-Standard Steel Hammer

-1/2" Sockets (deep are preferable), 16-19, 21 mm

-1/2" Ratchet Driver

-Open-End Adjustable (17 & 19 mm combos would have been ideal)

-Torque Wrench, rated to at least 80 ft-lbs



Not Pictured:

-Jack

-Jack Stands (pair)

-Creeper/old skateboard

Awesome write-up! I realize this thread is a couple months old but I'm about to tackle this job myself and was just wondering about something. I'm looking at my Bentley service manual and they say to use this special BMW lubricant that dries in 30 minutes, locking the bushing in place. I don't see you listing that and am wondering if you did it, if you used the locktite for that purpose, etc. Also, where did you get the lock nuts? I can't find them at any of the usual places I buy parts online.

[m3f_mmenefee]

A tip from my recent adventure with this job: When popping the outer ball joint off the knuckle (aka kingpin), leave the hex nut threaded a couple turns on the end of the ball joint. Not too tight, or you'll have a hard time getting it back off, as the ball joint will spin after it is pulled. The knuckle will pop when it lets go, and the nut will keep it from falling on the floor or you.

[m3f_thedood]

Awesome write-up! I realize this thread is a couple months old but I'm about to tackle this job myself and was just wondering about something. I'm looking at my Bentley service manual and they say to use this special BMW lubricant that dries in 30 minutes, locking the bushing in place. I don't see you listing that and am wondering if you did it, if you used the locktite for that purpose, etc. Also, where did you get the lock nuts? I can't find them at any of the usual places I buy parts online.

Sorry about the lack of response, you may never see this answer...



I did not use this 'special BMW lubricant' you speak of, though it sounds like it'd really help. Also, I got all of my parts for this job (& most others) from Tischer BMW; Jason's customer service beats any I've ever seen.

A tip from my recent adventure with this job: When popping the outer ball joint off the knuckle (aka kingpin), leave the hex nut threaded a couple turns on the end of the ball joint. Not too tight, or you'll have a hard time getting it back off, as the ball joint will spin after it is pulled. The knuckle will pop when it lets go, and the nut will keep it from falling on the floor or you.

Yeah, I forgot to mention leaving the nut on... if you're just using a pickle fork & don't remove the strut, though, you can't remove it until the ball joint is popped out of the kingpin, anyway. Good advice, nonetheless.

[m3f_mmenefee]

Sorry about the lack of response, you may never see this answer...



I did not use this 'special BMW lubricant' you speak of, though it sounds like it'd really help. Also, I got all of my parts for this job (& most others) from Tischer BMW; Jason's customer service beats any I've ever seen.

+1 to Tischer. They've been good to deal with.



The lubricant is given as 81 22 9 407 284 in the Bentley book. Only trouble is, according to Tischer, it's NLA. I tried to buy some for this job, but no luck. I've seen soapy water recommended as well.

Yeah, I forgot to mention leaving the nut on... if you're just using a pickle fork & don't remove the strut, though, you can't remove it until the ball joint is popped out of the kingpin, anyway. Good advice, nonetheless.

You can pull it out with stock shocks, at least on a '95.

[m3f_mmenefee]

The lubricant is given as 81 22 9 407 284 in the Bentley book. Only trouble is, according to Tischer, it's NLA. I tried to buy some for this job, but no luck. I've seen soapy water recommended as well.

Just looked the lube up in ETK. It is listed as "Turpentine Substitute". Maybe one could use turpentine? Not sure what that does to rubber, but it does evaporate.

[m3f_CREGO]

Sorry about the lack of response, you may never see this answer...



I did not use this 'special BMW lubricant' you speak of, though it sounds like it'd really help. Also, I got all of my parts for this job (& most others) from Tischer BMW; Jason's customer service beats any I've ever seen.

No, didn't see it, but thanks. I tried doing this job myself and struggled with the nut on the outer ball join and couldn't budge the inner. I was afraid of doing more damage and creating a costly repair so I bagged the DIY efffort. I don't know how you guys do this, I guess I'm too much of a girlie man!



Unfortunately, I got PowerFlex bushings and took the whole kit to a shop around the corner from me and when I went to pick it up, the owner said something like "those are interesting bushings with the offset in them, but I don't know how they're going to move them around when the do the alignment". I had the wheel off this weekend (going to try and tackle struts and shocks...oh boy...) and noticed that they're not close to being positioned properly. So $70 down the drain there (doubt they can be repositioned) plus the labor. I'm wondering if I can do just this part myself, but doubt it, and am worried that they'll butcher the inner and outer if I go back (or anywhere, for that matter) and will need new arms all over again. Somebody shoot me, please!

[m3f_kerph32]

Do you have RTAB experience Z? I need to do my tranny mounts too but I think I'm good there, haha..