Forget Richardsperry, I like buyers like him, I can jack up the price since he doesn't negotiate--there is good advice on this thread.
From alanlil on bimmerforums, giving advice to someone in your shoes---
"150 point "dealer" inspection is worthless. The expensive preventative maintenance that these cars require has little to do with if the car is "safe" or not.
"good for 50k more miles" doesn't sound like the cooling system been overhauled recently.. Is it running on original struts and shocks? Is the dealer putting new rotors on it?
The car needing tie rods, tires and brakes doesn't bode well for the previous owner lavishing it with maintenance. Those are basic items required for it to pass a safety inspection. I'd expect this car to need $2+ in parts.
Typically cars get traded in because they need lots of work and the seller just wants to unload it.
Is this car in the DC area? I'd be happy to take a look at it if it's convenient.
To give you a price point, I paid $13.5 close to a year ago for a very clean 97 manual sedan with 53k miles that had brand new tires, brakes, rotors, RSMs, and belts. Everything else was original. I have caught everything up since, but it took another $2k and a few weekends to overhaul the cooling system, suspension and other various drive line items.
Edit:
I see it's at Passport and the carfax shows dealer maintenance history. Lots of "checked", but nothing "replaced." This also means that it probably has break in oil in the trans, rear end and PS system. Do yourself a favor and get a good PPI somewhere objective before you pull the trigger.
If it's super clean and it checked out, I'd pay $13 max for it with an expectation of putting a couple grand into it post purchase to overhaul suspension, cooling system and misc. I think between $11 and $12 would be a fair private party price.
I'd also negotiate them taking care of inspection II if it hasn't been done recently. Is the brake fluid clear, has the service light been recently reset?"
Take it for what it's worth. The main thing is to get the history and see what's done or needs to be done. A well maintained car will still need something, just figure out what and how much that will cost you.
From alanlil on bimmerforums, giving advice to someone in your shoes---
"150 point "dealer" inspection is worthless. The expensive preventative maintenance that these cars require has little to do with if the car is "safe" or not.
"good for 50k more miles" doesn't sound like the cooling system been overhauled recently.. Is it running on original struts and shocks? Is the dealer putting new rotors on it?
The car needing tie rods, tires and brakes doesn't bode well for the previous owner lavishing it with maintenance. Those are basic items required for it to pass a safety inspection. I'd expect this car to need $2+ in parts.
Typically cars get traded in because they need lots of work and the seller just wants to unload it.
Is this car in the DC area? I'd be happy to take a look at it if it's convenient.
To give you a price point, I paid $13.5 close to a year ago for a very clean 97 manual sedan with 53k miles that had brand new tires, brakes, rotors, RSMs, and belts. Everything else was original. I have caught everything up since, but it took another $2k and a few weekends to overhaul the cooling system, suspension and other various drive line items.
Edit:
I see it's at Passport and the carfax shows dealer maintenance history. Lots of "checked", but nothing "replaced." This also means that it probably has break in oil in the trans, rear end and PS system. Do yourself a favor and get a good PPI somewhere objective before you pull the trigger.
If it's super clean and it checked out, I'd pay $13 max for it with an expectation of putting a couple grand into it post purchase to overhaul suspension, cooling system and misc. I think between $11 and $12 would be a fair private party price.
I'd also negotiate them taking care of inspection II if it hasn't been done recently. Is the brake fluid clear, has the service light been recently reset?"
Take it for what it's worth. The main thing is to get the history and see what's done or needs to be done. A well maintained car will still need something, just figure out what and how much that will cost you.
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