E36 M3 Power Upgrades and Weight Reduction | Need Suggestion

[m3f_The wheel]

Just checked and the E36 M3 has more power than the Camry.



Sorry

I hope you understand my point. Don't be a moron.

[m3f_Hasan Shaikh]

I can't I am a big moron.

[m3f_Neubauten]

Guys!



If I remove the back seat, will I get a lot of noise from the back?



Thanks

If you have folding seats, you have to expect a bit more noise but nothing dramatic...

[m3f_toastie]

There are substantial gains to be had on an S50B32 IF done properly. It is not cheap. I can personally attest to that.



In order for this to happen, you must think of everything as a "system." You can't just do it piecemeal.



At a minimum you will need to address the following items:



-headers (including crossover) rest is irrelevent

-cams (preferrably motorsport cams - not schrick)

-injectors to go along with cams

-intake

-ECU - hacking the factory ECU is just that - a hack. It will never allow you to realize the full potential of your modifications.



There are other items but I suspect that list will scare away most people.



CSL motorsport intake - Not from a CSL because that won't work on the S50B32











Motorsport headers:







Custom headers - a compromise - not as much of a gain as motorsport headers:







Motorsport crossover:











I agree that it is big dollars. "Worth" is relative because you can get big numbers out of an S50B32. Also agree that flashing a stock ECU is not "worth" it. Using a standalone is another story.







True if your looking to go 450 hp plus on a budget. Yes it's obvioulsy MUCH cheaper to do a turbo. Also agree that it's way beyond what 99% of people would be willing to spend on a naturally aspirated S50B32. Personally I'd never turbo that engine but that's just me.







Nobody has an actual CSL intake that fits properly other than the one I posted above. Actually the one above is a CSL Motorsport replica as there is a difference from the street version. Throttle body spacing is different for the S54.

+1, engine upgrades may be a bit on the expensive side for the HP in return.



I can't attest to whether or not upgrading the suspension will make it more alive because I haven't picked up my own e36 but I would imagine upgrading your suspension will help give it a better feel and provide a thrill during track days. The cost would be comparable to whatever it would of costed to upgrade the engine components suggested by Jim E.



You should read up on fiveightandten's write up (http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=300562).



Great information and gives a bit more background as to what to expect from this car.

[m3f_MaynardZed]

Chasing horsepower on this platform is a fool's errand. If you want to do a simple tune and some bolt ons, do it, but don't expect huge gains. I have pretty much every bolt-on you can buy, cats deleted, etc. and I put down 237 rwhp on a DynoJet.



I built my 1999 E36 from completely stock to a full blown race car over the last 4 years. The biggest single upgrade was when we transformed the suspension. It's best to do it in one shot by someone who knows what they are doing. I paid a race shop to do my suspension and told him to set it up the way he would for himself (the owner has been racing these cars for years). Totally transformed the car. It drives like a damn go cart, just gobs and gobs of grip. You can get back on the gas WAY earlier than other more powerful cars so your corner exit speed is tremendous. It takes higher horsepower cars half the straight to catch back up to you and then you're usually back on his ass by the braking zone.



Video of my latest race (race starts at 1:20). The red corvette (and radicals) have way more horsepower and is two classes up from me, but you notice how I'm catching him in the turns for awhile. My E36 is way easier to drive near its limit too. You're always the "underdog" in this car, but thats what makes it so rewarding!



INDE May 2016 Sunday Feature Race - YouTube














Other areas to significantly help with performance: weight reduction, rear differential, driveline. Don't forget welding / wiring the oil pump nut and oil pan baffles which is mandatory for any track driven E36. Also highly recommend sold motor and diff mounts.

[m3f_lcrain]

S54 swap. 310 whp and 8250 rpm to play with.

[m3f_kyrix1st]

S54 swap. 310 whp and 8250 rpm to play with.

He's got the euro 3.2L motor so it may be more effective to do headers and intake to get that whp over a full swap.

[m3f_egebhardt]

I can't I am a big moron.

Wrong. The V6 Camry has 268hp.

http://www.autotrader.com/car-info/c...it-have-146396


In the end, you'll butcher a perfectly good car by spending a bunch of money only to end up with something worth less than what you started. Like Maynard said earlier, HP gains are a 'fools errand'.


To each his own.

[m3f_frbz]

And the Euro S50b32 has 320 PS

[m3f_97_4dr_5spd_m3]

S54 swap. 310 whp and 8250 rpm to play with.

If we are talking swapping engines I believe the best band for buck is an LS swap. Then bolt-ons on top of that can make big differences there.

[m3f_The wheel]

Wrong. The V6 Camry has 268hp.

http://www.autotrader.com/car-info/c...it-have-146396



In the end, you'll butcher a perfectly good car by spending a bunch of money only to end up with something worth less than what you started. Like Maynard said earlier, HP gains are a 'fools errand'.



To each his own.

[m3f_westopher]

Cant believe how many people in here fail to realize he has an s50b32, and what that is.

Properly modifying a car is far from "a fools errand."

You should look in here for some info. There is a slightly more active euro ownership/modification forum on BF. http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/fo...9-Euro-M3-(E36)

[m3f_digger]

just be sure to tread wisely, you dont want to ruin the characteristics of the s50b32 by trying to make numbers that look nice on paper but make driving more of a chore. this would be anything more than mild schricks cams and "race" exhausts done poorly that really hurt the bottom end.


chances are the car is down on power from how it first left the factory so money should be spent restoring lost power first with vanos refresh/checks, valve clearances, plugs, make sure all sensors working, injectors are clean etc

[m3f_Neubauten]

Chasing horsepower on this platform is a fool's errand. If you want to do a simple tune and some bolt ons, do it, but don't expect huge gains. I have pretty much every bolt-on you can buy, cats deleted, etc. and I put down 237 rwhp on a DynoJet.



I built my 1999 E36 from completely stock to a full blown race car over the last 4 years. The biggest single upgrade was when we transformed the suspension. It's best to do it in one shot by someone who knows what they are doing. I paid a race shop to do my suspension and told him to set it up the way he would for himself (the owner has been racing these cars for years). Totally transformed the car. It drives like a damn go cart, just gobs and gobs of grip. You can get back on the gas WAY earlier than other more powerful cars so your corner exit speed is tremendous. It takes higher horsepower cars half the straight to catch back up to you and then you're usually back on his ass by the braking zone.



Video of my latest race (race starts at 1:20). The red corvette (and radicals) have way more horsepower and is two classes up from me, but you notice how I'm catching him in the turns for awhile. My E36 is way easier to drive near its limit too. You're always the "underdog" in this car, but thats what makes it so rewarding!

INDE May 2016 Sunday Feature Race - YouTube



Other areas to significantly help with performance: weight reduction, rear differential, driveline. Don't forget welding / wiring the oil pump nut and oil pan baffles which is mandatory for any track driven E36. Also highly recommend sold motor and diff mounts.

I think the OP has an Euro M3 3.2 so probably even more difficult to pull out more HP (100hp/L, that is already impressive for a N/A engine...)

Additionally, on this engine the oil pan has baffles already and reinforced oil pump.

[m3f_LanceMach]

Not sure what you're trying to get out of these mods, but here's my two cents.


Spend your money on safely, suspension, brakes and tires and then extra track days.


If you want to be faster, get more seat time with the power you have. I spent 12 years on an underpowered stock, tired motor (in my Mustang, not the M3). I had a really good suspension and brakes and moved up to racing tires and I learned to be fast by being smooth and keeping my speed up everywhere. Even before I went to a new motor, I found myself passing most everyone (except the big HP guys whose egos wouldn't let them lift to let a "slower" car by).


There's a lot to be said about learning to be fast in an under-powered car: most the guys who start with gobs of HP never seem learn how to be fast in the turns (they just mash the gas on the straights and then mash the brakes as they come in way too hot for the turns).


Seat time - that's what it's all about... Oh, and passing the $150,000 super car in your low budget toy... Yeah - that too.