I cant argue with Roland on any of those points ....
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Cost is not that far off either, comparing the best OEM setup to a low cost BBK...cost is for fronts only...ducting would add at least $300
Rebuild kits - $30
Brass giudes - $55
SS cups - $80
PFC rotors - $700
PFC pads - $100
= $965 + shipping so $1000
This is the setup I have now and I see no need for a BBK...course I paid $200 for my rotors...so it's always good to keep your eyes out on the forums!!Comment
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Food for thought guys...... Didn't the euro 3.2's get m5 brake calipers??Comment
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& btw....... Interested in where ths thread goes... :shifty:Comment
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Why do you want drilled rotors? Thought you were trying to upgrade.:clueless:Comment
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drilled = bad...
spending $700 on PFC rotors with stock calipers is retarded....Comment
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Why do you want drilled rotors? Thought you were trying to upgrade.:clueless:
Contrary to what you (no offense) and MANY other people say negatively about drilled rotors, I DO consider them an upgrade for many reasons.
Not all drilled rotors are bad. The integrity of a drilled rotor has a LOT to do with the manufacturing process of them and when/how they were drilled. When done properly on the right NC machine, with proper stress relief stepping and chamfering they can actually be quite high quality. If drilled rotors were so bad why do you think Porsche, Bmw and Mercedes use them on many of their "upper" end cars/sports cars.
Drilled rotors offer much higher resistance to fade than blanks. They also allow more efficient out-gassing to take place between the pad/rotor surface because the holes give the gases somewhere to escape to.Comment
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I cannot agree with you more! In a former career I worked in the Motorsport industry providing spares to teams in (At the time) CART, IRL, ALMS, Trans-AM etc. Nearly all major Manufactures made and teams used drilled rotors
(Wilwood, Brembo, Alcon, AP, PFC.....) If the drilled holes are chamifered it reduces the chances of cracking greatly. A couple of other things to consider are :
1) Proper bedding the brake pads and rotors
2) Proper parts, what I mean here is that I have seen many many brake failures due to guys trying to make stock brake pads work on a 90 degree day at the track. IMHO, that is a recipe for disaster. If you are going to the track, spend a few bucks and do it right. make sure you have ss lines, a fresh system bleed with Superblue and a set of track pads. There are several pads that do street and track fairly well, but NONE that will be great in both situations!
3) Yet another thing to consider is your wheel bearings/hubs. I had new drilled rotors and track only pads a couple years ago at Road America but developed a miserable vibration under hard braking. It turned out to be hubs/wheel bearings out of round. I damn near lost it going into 5 at RA because of this.
I agree with Calvin, the Wilwood upgrade is really the best bang for the buck! I have them on my car and love it. The calipers are "Superlights" paired with the 2 piece bmw motorsport rotors and custom brackets and ss lines. the difference is substantial! I am not trying to start a big debate again, but you can get them from UUC. Yes, I know..... I should get off my butt and create my own BBK with Wilwoods and 2 piece rotors. I think that i have contacts to buy the rotors and calipers right.... Anyway, go with the Wilwood kit, it is worth it. BTW, with 2 piece rotors it is like $1200, so that would blow the $900 budget but it can be done with stock rotors as well.
PeteComment
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drilled = bad...
spending $700 on PFC rotors with stock calipers is retarded....
eh, not really.... Once you have the hats, you don't have to buy them again. So you'll just be buying new friction rings. Couple that with the fact that they will outlast almost any other rotor out there, and the fact that they are lighter, and two piece design, it's a no brainer if you still want to run 16s or are required to run the stock calipers for some reason.
If a BBK is not allowed, then PF.c rotors ftw.Comment
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If drilled rotors were so bad why do you think Porsche, Bmw and Mercedes use them on many of their "upper" end cars/sports cars.
For the BLING(read: rice)!!! factor. Dr. SoandSo wants the best looking brakes he can get the best looking tail.
Drilled rotors offer much higher resistance to fade than blanks. They also allow more efficient out-gassing to take place between the pad/rotor surface because the holes give the gases somewhere to escape to.
How do they decrease fade? Fade is caused by heat buildup. With drilled, there's less material to dissipate heat. Also, gas doesn't build up enough with today's pad materials. This was an issue with asbestos pads. The only plus to drilling is to reduce unsprung weight. Which is really important for a light vehicle, with light wheels, like a cart or cycle but not for our fat M's where the lightest wheel/tire you can possibly have is over 30 lbs.
Slotted is a better choice if you want bling. :twocents:Comment
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Again, 2 schools of thought
1) Slotted= better, because it provides the most friction area and allows gasses to release via the slots. (modern pads to have gas build up) but not really an issue if you only use on the street.
2) Drilled=better, because the cross holes allow gas to escape and provide ventilation to keep rotors cool. As somebody mentioned earlier, heat is what cause issues on the track for brakes. The down side to drilled rotors is less friction area to be used.
Honestly, either are better than stockers.Comment
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Let's try and keep this on-topic. My intention here was to get ideas on cheap brake upgrades, not start a debate on why drilled rotors are or are not a better choice over blanks.Comment
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I did a ton of research on this last year when I was thinking of doing a bbk and this is what I came up with.
Advantages of drilled rotors:
1) Allowed the buildup of gases to be released from old, asbestos based pad materials.
2) Easily allows any water between pad and rotor to escape.(never really an issue)
3) Reduces unsprung weight by a few ounces per rotor.
4) Bling!
5) Racing heritage
Disadvantages of drilled rotors:
1) Crack/warp more easily than slotted or blanks.
2) On average, only has 85% of the frictional area compared to blanks of the same size.
3) Less material(mass) to absorb and dissipate heat.
Advantages of slotted rotors.
1) Allows the pad to be refinished quicker removed any dirt, debris or glazing stuck between the pad and rotor.
2) Easily allows any water between pad and rotor to escape.(never really an issue)
3) More surface area than drilled rotors of the same size to absorb and dissipate heat.
4) Little bit of bling.
Disadvantages of slotted rotors.
1) Can eat pads faster due to constant resurfacing of the pads.
2) On average only has 92% of the frictional area when compared to blanks of the same size.
3) Crack/warp more easily than blanks.
I didn't include drilled and slotted because they are pretty much a worthless(rice) part. (Weaker than either slotted or drilled and just plain dangerous.)
Just trying help. I'm sure you'll make the right choice.:thumbsup2:Comment
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The digression from the topic is prolly my bad, sorry! Look here:
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/
Their Wilwood BBK will 1 piece slotted rotors is $1099. Not too far from your budget, plus they usually run specials now and then to discount stuff....
It's easy and bolt on and does not require reengineering anything, it is all bolt on stuff.
PeteComment
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The digression from the topic is prolly my bad, sorry! Look here:
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/
Their Wilwood BBK will 1 piece slotted rotors is $1099. Not too far from your budget, plus they usually run specials now and then to discount stuff....
It's easy and bolt on and does not require reengineering anything, it is all bolt on stuff.
Pete
I'll probably be sourcing my own rotors, where can I find just the calipers? I know its the superlite caliper, but is there a specific PN?Comment
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