The budget started out as less than $1000 - and it looks like I am going to be able to conform - barely. For a while there, I was expecting that I could do it for under $750, but that changed with the addition of nice cables and discrete amplification. The $1000 budget includes all of the materials necessary to do a quality (but not show-quality) installation in my 1995 M3.
There is a related thread to this one (http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=348799), where I asked for, and received, some great advice from other members before making purchase. I really recommend asking the advice those with experience before purchasing - while I thought I knew what I was going to buy, I am glad that I asked because some very good ideas were brought up and, in some cases, I changed my mind.
What is my experience level?: Well, I've been doing my own basic stereo upgrades for almost 20 years (deck, speakers, amp, sub), and at one time competed in IASCA in Washington State while I was in the military. I apprenticed at a car stereo shop for about a year because I thought it is what I wanted to do when I got out of the military (and I got to make an employee purchase!). I am so glad that I did so, because I found out that it was not how I want to make my living. Am I great? No way. Am I good --- well, I can impress those that don't know much.
I have only done custom fiberglass fabrication once as well as helping others on different occasions - and I remember some of the techniques. I have also been doing some reading up on the internet about new techniques for DIY fabrication. Most importantly, I understand 12 volt electronics and amp loading. I recommend before anybody embarks on a stereo in their car to research the basics and be very comfortable about wiring; you can destroy some very expensive equipment very quickly if you don't know what you're doing.
Here is the plan, and I start today --- hopefully I can get some pictures up shortly.
Equipment:
Clarion CZ500 (bluetooth/ipod/hd radio) head unit: $149.99 (http://www.clarion.com/us/en/products/2010/audio/source_units/cd/CZ500/us-en-product-pf_1259392953332.html)
NOTE: This is already installed and will not be part of this DIY. In fact, this is the reason for the stereo upgrade --- I thought that changing the source unit was going to be enough for me - but the truth is, it just made it worse. I can play my iPod now, but it sounds like absolute crap (likely because of the 15 year old speakers and double amplification).
Soundstream RUB5.800 5ch amplifier: $225.08 (http://soundstream.com/AudioProducts/Amplifiers/rubicon.htm)
Soundstream RBC.6 6.5" Component speaker system: $68.43 (http://soundstream.com/AudioProducts/Components/rubicon.htm)
Soundstream Reference RW12 Subwoofer: $80.20 (http://soundstream.com/AudioProducts/Subwoofers/reference.htm)
Clarion MCD360 (3-way active crossover): $82.07
Boss 4ga amp installation kit: $24.39 (http://www.bossaudio.com/main/746)
Raptor 100ft 14ga speaker wire: $29.00
Monster MPC I204 5 meter 4ch RCA: $27.39
3 sets of Monster I300MKII-1M RCA: $29.97
Total Equipment cost - but $700 (note: all of this stuff was either on sale or last year's model on Amazon.com)
... add $100 at Lowe's for supplies to do the kickpanels.
... add $30 for misc fabric and other goodies.
... add $15 for grille cloth and other accessories from parts express.
Installation design:
Goals: Simple, stealth, lightweight, and that which cannot be lightweight should be easily removable at the track (sub enclosure). This is a track car and daily driver - I MUST not lose that focus!
Front Speakers: The Soundstream separates are going to be run off discrete channels so that I don't have to use the passive crossovers. I was conflicted about how to do the speakers in the kickpanels:
Simple (off-axis): This would be easy --- and it has been done quite a bit. A great example is here: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-member-build-logs/42353-little-sq-install-e36-m3.html Unfortunately, this off-axis installation will definitely impact the staging.
More fabrication (on-Axis): This is a LOT more work - but will definitely give much better results for staging. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-member-build-logs/85513-quick-simple-job-e36-m3-sedan.html
I have chosen to go the on-axis route. Additionally, I am going to put the tweeters in the kick panels as well. Nearly $100 in supplies from the local fabric store, Lowe's and Michael's --- more than the separates themselves cost.
Amplifier / Processor: Not really clear on where this is going yet. Considered mounting it upside down under the rear desk, or maybe even right-side up with an air gap and fans. Regardless, I need to be able to access the controls on the end cap, so that may dictate the installation location more than I want. Since quick removal of the amplifier is not feasible - the installation will need to be done with light weight materials.
Rear Speakers: Removing them.
Sub: This is going to be the fun part. The sub will work well in a bandpass enclosure of about .75 cu.ft. per chamber netting a gain of about 3.4db on a range of 29-80Hz. Getting the ports aligned with the stock rear speaker locations is definitely a goal --- but I don't really know the feasibility of this yet while still making the enclosure removable. I have some ideas in mind, but they are too unrefined to try to explain them.
Other: I picked up some "Peel and Seal" from Lowe's and will be deadening panels with this stuff instead of the expensive Dynamat. I have heard mixed reviews, but for $16 it was worth a shot.
Pics coming soon.
There is a related thread to this one (http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=348799), where I asked for, and received, some great advice from other members before making purchase. I really recommend asking the advice those with experience before purchasing - while I thought I knew what I was going to buy, I am glad that I asked because some very good ideas were brought up and, in some cases, I changed my mind.
What is my experience level?: Well, I've been doing my own basic stereo upgrades for almost 20 years (deck, speakers, amp, sub), and at one time competed in IASCA in Washington State while I was in the military. I apprenticed at a car stereo shop for about a year because I thought it is what I wanted to do when I got out of the military (and I got to make an employee purchase!). I am so glad that I did so, because I found out that it was not how I want to make my living. Am I great? No way. Am I good --- well, I can impress those that don't know much.
I have only done custom fiberglass fabrication once as well as helping others on different occasions - and I remember some of the techniques. I have also been doing some reading up on the internet about new techniques for DIY fabrication. Most importantly, I understand 12 volt electronics and amp loading. I recommend before anybody embarks on a stereo in their car to research the basics and be very comfortable about wiring; you can destroy some very expensive equipment very quickly if you don't know what you're doing.Here is the plan, and I start today --- hopefully I can get some pictures up shortly.
Equipment:
Clarion CZ500 (bluetooth/ipod/hd radio) head unit: $149.99 (http://www.clarion.com/us/en/products/2010/audio/source_units/cd/CZ500/us-en-product-pf_1259392953332.html)
NOTE: This is already installed and will not be part of this DIY. In fact, this is the reason for the stereo upgrade --- I thought that changing the source unit was going to be enough for me - but the truth is, it just made it worse. I can play my iPod now, but it sounds like absolute crap (likely because of the 15 year old speakers and double amplification).
Soundstream RUB5.800 5ch amplifier: $225.08 (http://soundstream.com/AudioProducts/Amplifiers/rubicon.htm)
Soundstream RBC.6 6.5" Component speaker system: $68.43 (http://soundstream.com/AudioProducts/Components/rubicon.htm)
Soundstream Reference RW12 Subwoofer: $80.20 (http://soundstream.com/AudioProducts/Subwoofers/reference.htm)
Clarion MCD360 (3-way active crossover): $82.07
Boss 4ga amp installation kit: $24.39 (http://www.bossaudio.com/main/746)
Raptor 100ft 14ga speaker wire: $29.00
Monster MPC I204 5 meter 4ch RCA: $27.39
3 sets of Monster I300MKII-1M RCA: $29.97
Total Equipment cost - but $700 (note: all of this stuff was either on sale or last year's model on Amazon.com)
... add $100 at Lowe's for supplies to do the kickpanels.
... add $30 for misc fabric and other goodies.
... add $15 for grille cloth and other accessories from parts express.
Installation design:
Goals: Simple, stealth, lightweight, and that which cannot be lightweight should be easily removable at the track (sub enclosure). This is a track car and daily driver - I MUST not lose that focus!
Front Speakers: The Soundstream separates are going to be run off discrete channels so that I don't have to use the passive crossovers. I was conflicted about how to do the speakers in the kickpanels:
Simple (off-axis): This would be easy --- and it has been done quite a bit. A great example is here: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-member-build-logs/42353-little-sq-install-e36-m3.html Unfortunately, this off-axis installation will definitely impact the staging.
More fabrication (on-Axis): This is a LOT more work - but will definitely give much better results for staging. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-member-build-logs/85513-quick-simple-job-e36-m3-sedan.html
I have chosen to go the on-axis route. Additionally, I am going to put the tweeters in the kick panels as well. Nearly $100 in supplies from the local fabric store, Lowe's and Michael's --- more than the separates themselves cost.
Amplifier / Processor: Not really clear on where this is going yet. Considered mounting it upside down under the rear desk, or maybe even right-side up with an air gap and fans. Regardless, I need to be able to access the controls on the end cap, so that may dictate the installation location more than I want. Since quick removal of the amplifier is not feasible - the installation will need to be done with light weight materials.
Rear Speakers: Removing them.
Sub: This is going to be the fun part. The sub will work well in a bandpass enclosure of about .75 cu.ft. per chamber netting a gain of about 3.4db on a range of 29-80Hz. Getting the ports aligned with the stock rear speaker locations is definitely a goal --- but I don't really know the feasibility of this yet while still making the enclosure removable. I have some ideas in mind, but they are too unrefined to try to explain them.
Other: I picked up some "Peel and Seal" from Lowe's and will be deadening panels with this stuff instead of the expensive Dynamat. I have heard mixed reviews, but for $16 it was worth a shot.
Pics coming soon.
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