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    Caliper bleed screw broken off...

    Hey all. Just had a freak situation with my bleed screw. It was pretty darn stuck on there. After enough tries the thing snapped in half...

    Fortunately it’s not spilling out fluid. Unfortunately I have no idea what to do..

    Do I pull this out just like any other screw? With a screw extraction tool?


    #2
    I would spray some penetrating oil and let it sit for several hours or heat it up with a torch then use a screw extractor. if that fails then find a flat head screw driver that is small enough and hammer it onto the bleeder screw and screw it out.
    2005 Phoenix Yellow M3 Coupe 6spd
    2013 Interlagos Blue M3 Coupe 6spd ZCP, CF roof
    2007 Imola Red Z4M Coupe

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      #3
      Originally posted by Maxima SE View Post
      I would spray some penetrating oil and let it sit for several hours or heat it up with a torch then use a screw extractor. if that fails then find a flat head screw driver that is small enough and hammer it onto the bleeder screw and screw it out.
      That pretty much covers it. You can't go crazy with the heat due to the rubber components. For the latter, it would be ideal to cut a slit using a tiny dremel cut off disc if the OP had one.
      '05 M3 Convertible 6MT, CB/Cinnamon, CSL Airbox&Flap, PCSTuning, Beisan, Schrick 288/280, SS V1's & 2.5" System, RE Stg 1&SMF, KW V2, CB PS, Apex EC-7R

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        #4
        Time for a bbk
        Just some old shitty cars.

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          #5
          Before trying to remove any bleeders, tap the head with a hammer to loosen the threads and this prevents the breakage as this case.

          To remove the broken one: score a line groove using a small chisel and hammering on the broken end, then either using an impact driver with a flat bit and hammer it to turn CCW, or hammer a screwdriver WHILE turning CCW.



          Attached Files
          Last edited by sapote; 04-25-2021, 07:00 PM.

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            #6
            All good ideas above. If the bleed screw is seized in there I would consider removing the caliper and bring it to the bench and rebuild it. With new square cut seal and dust boot.

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              #7
              Thanks for all the tips everybody. As long as the package arrives tomorrow I’ll get started on it

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                #8
                Originally posted by Maxima SE View Post
                I would spray some penetrating oil and let it sit for several hours or heat it up with a torch then use a screw extractor.
                This is what I would suggest. With the addition of taking the caliper off. You do not want any metal fragments working its way in the system.
                6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by oldFanatic View Post
                  This is what I would suggest. With the addition of taking the caliper off. You do not want any metal fragments working its way in the system.
                  Or at the very least unbolting the caliper and work with the bleed screw pointing at the floor.
                  Last edited by heinzboehmer; 04-27-2021, 11:34 PM.
                  2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                  2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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                    #10
                    I’ve actually over decades had to deal with working on damaged cars that had this. Sometimes it’s easy and other times it’s a nightmare. Remember the bleeder is soft metal while the caliper and VERY important threads are hard metal. Some suggestions appear to overlook the bleeder isn’t a solid bolt, it’s hollow and soft (brass usually). You can’t use brute force on this or it’ll break apart. Or worse yet ruin the threads in caliper that seal the fluid. Do not use an impact driver here.

                    Some breaks are nice and diy easy enough to remove. While unlucky breaks we had to take to the machinist to remove to save threads.
                    6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by oldFanatic View Post
                      Or worse yet ruin the threads in caliper that seal the fluid.
                      The sealing surface at the bleeder conical end and the caliper conical bottom of the threaded hole responsible for stopping the fluid leaking, not the threads.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by sapote View Post
                        The sealing surface at the bleeder conical end and the caliper conical bottom of the threaded hole responsible for stopping the fluid leaking, not the threads.

                        Well of course the “threads” don’t stop the fluid from coming out the hollow bleeder nipple. But ruin the threads and tell me how you stop the fluid? Damage the threads and the bleeder isn’t going to seat.

                        Point was it’s very important not to ruin the threads or it becomes a much more involved job.
                        This is a soft hollow bleeder valve, you do not want to hammer on an impact driver. Ask anyone who has actually done this job. It’s not like a seized bolt, it likely just snapped from flare nut wrench angle.
                        Last edited by old///MFanatic; 04-28-2021, 11:06 AM.
                        6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

                        Comment


                          #13
                          The bleeder is a softer metal but it’s not brass.
                          Properly use the impact driver should not harm the female threads. Just as any tools, there’s proper way and wrong way.

                          i’m interested of hearing your recommendation for this case.
                          Last edited by sapote; 04-28-2021, 08:51 AM.

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                            #14
                            Bad news... drill bit broke off and got hopelessly stuck inside. After a few hours of frustration I have given up. Ill be contacting my machine shop guys and pray that they will drill it out for me there. if not... anyone selling a CSL/ZCP right rear caliper?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by SteelGreyM View Post
                              Bad news... drill bit broke off and got hopelessly stuck inside. After a few hours of frustration I have given up. Ill be contacting my machine shop guys and pray that they will drill it out for me there. if not... anyone selling a CSL/ZCP right rear caliper?
                              Oooof bad news man. Happened to me once. Machine shop sorted it out real quick.

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